Question about Copart buying in Michigan but car is in Missouri

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
$4-5k.should command a VERY nice LSJ, the market is crap on those cars right now. Worth way more in parts than whole.

When you're ready to spend 4k on an LSJ let us all know and we'll find you the right one. Hell, drive it until you save up for the stage 1.
 

Hayden2053

Active Member
$4-5k.should command a VERY nice LSJ, the market is crap on those cars right now. Worth way more in parts than whole.

When you're ready to spend 4k on an LSJ let us all know and we'll find you the right one. Hell, drive it until you save up for the stage 1.
The one that was listed up in the form honestly does not look to bad, big high mileage but not awful. It's just going to take awhile I should have 4k around by December sadly that pushes buying stage one back by about another year
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
If you're out by a year from December, you're buying...
1. V2
2. Already built
3. Incomplete project.

*edit - were going in circles
 

Hayden2053

Active Member
If you're out by a year from December, you're buying...
1. V2
2. Already built
3. Incomplete project.

*edit - were going in circles
That's exactly what I was afraid of, I'll have to get stage one before df discontinues v1. I personally don't like how v2 looks at all so far
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I need to look at the V2 again, as I don't remember it looking all that much different than the V1. I remember being surprised it didn't look more different than the original when I saw the initial renderings.

With all of the improvements listed in the initial sneak peek, I'm wondering why someone looking to buy now would even consider V1 versus waiting for V2.
 

Hayden2053

Active Member
I need to look at the V2 again, as I don't remember it looking all that much different than the V1. I remember being surprised it didn't look more different than the original when I saw the initial renderings.

With all of the improvements listed in the initial sneak peek, I'm wondering why someone looking to buy now would even consider V1 versus waiting for V2.
one of the main reasons is I would like to have a manual transmission but the golf only has paddle shifters and I like the open frame vs closed frame, to me the V2 looks to much just like a over sized go kart really but maybe with future photos closer to launch I will get a better idea
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
Here you go, buy this one and you will be ahead of the build game. This is an excellent price and is doable with little additional parts needed to finish, from the description.
Best alternative I've seen so far to the buy-a-donor or buy-a-kit that you will find currently.
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
Here you go, buy this one and you will be ahead of the build game. This is an excellent price and is doable with little additional parts needed to finish, from the description.
Best alternative I've seen so far to the buy-a-donor or buy-a-kit that you will find currently.
Not a manual car.
 

ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
Not a manual car.
NOT that big of a problem. I am currently working the kinks out of auto to manual. Most of the Electrical is in the bag, just reroute /splice about 6 wires.(All the auto trans controls are buried in the engine harness connected to the TCM, those wires just get cut away.) You may have to reflash the BCM?, this is a point I have yet to address, BCM differences? or source one from a manual.
A Wilwood brand clutch pedal set up? They make several types, I feel sure one of their designs would retrofit to a Goblin easily, you'd probably have to cut down that huge auto brake pedal but you can use a cutter wheel can't you? I discovered the hydraulic connection bits today! Using a little ingenuity and a little cash the pipe set up comes in around $70.
Shifter cables, I found a source just a few minutes ago!(been researching for weeks. I am up against a deadline of June 9th.) Or get them from Goblin, theirs are made to measure!
Manual shifters, I've got plenty of ideas and shifters sources from Goblin's basic reversing OEM to scrounged and modified to DF's custom built unit. It all depends on how fancy you want to go.
F23's are out there, the special ones out of HHR have final drive of 4:11(drag racer gears)
I suggest you buy the automatic Goblin runner and convert to manual as time and funds allow! I've got all the research and I'm not keeping it secret! I'll gladly walk you through it. These Machines were made by humans and can be modified by humans. If you have the gumption, this Forum has your Guides.
 
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