RCK605's Track Goblin #438 - 05 SS/SC
- Thread starter RCK605
- Start date
escapepilot
Goblin Guru
I like that you are laying you harness in the chassis before wrapping it up. I have a few places where I could have used an inch more slack.
RCK605
Well-Known Member
Engine is in the frame. I don't have a battery yet, so the bag of rocks is my counterweight. If things go smooth tomorrow maybe I'll get to attempt a first start.
The rest of the parts are on order from DF. Hopefully the weather cools down a little by the time they are ready to be picked up.
The rest of the parts are on order from DF. Hopefully the weather cools down a little by the time they are ready to be picked up.
RCK605
Well-Known Member
I got the fuse box installed and everything connected. To my surprise she turned over first try. Ran to the parts store to get some 3/8 fuel line so I could try a first start. There were a couple user error issues to work through.
I cut off the plastic fuel lines from the pump and replaced with hose. When reconnecting them I hooked them up backwards. Easy, but messy fix.
Tried starting again and still nothing happened. Got to thinking and pushed in the clutch pedal instead of just pushing the button. After that she fired, sputtered, and died. Fired it up again, ran really rough and died. I don't have my MAF installed so that is likely the problem.
Now I can tidy up everything while I wait for Stage 2 and 3 to be ready for pickup!
Oh, and my fuel gauge must be wired backwards...
I cut off the plastic fuel lines from the pump and replaced with hose. When reconnecting them I hooked them up backwards. Easy, but messy fix.
Tried starting again and still nothing happened. Got to thinking and pushed in the clutch pedal instead of just pushing the button. After that she fired, sputtered, and died. Fired it up again, ran really rough and died. I don't have my MAF installed so that is likely the problem.
Now I can tidy up everything while I wait for Stage 2 and 3 to be ready for pickup!
Oh, and my fuel gauge must be wired backwards...
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Install the MAF along with filter and see if your problem persists. Mine runs like doo-doo if it's not installed.
I think others have had the backwards fuel gauge before but I cannot recall the fix. I'm sure someone else that had had it previously will add in.
Tip for you, or you may not care. I'm planning to paint the white shroud of my new gauge set black. Some of the white is visible after installing the button panel kit. It bothers me but may not bother you.
I think others have had the backwards fuel gauge before but I cannot recall the fix. I'm sure someone else that had had it previously will add in.
Tip for you, or you may not care. I'm planning to paint the white shroud of my new gauge set black. Some of the white is visible after installing the button panel kit. It bothers me but may not bother you.
Ross
Goblin Guru
The fuel sensor is just a resistor.
Full - 40 ohms
Empty - 250 ohms
So flipping the wires doesn't change the resistance.
Normally one side is wired to "low reference" or ground, and the other side goes to the PCM. If that low reference side went to high reference it would be backwards.
They do make aftermarket fuel sensors that switch the full and empty resistance. If you took your fuel sensor apart, you might be able to mount it upside down...
Full - 40 ohms
Empty - 250 ohms
So flipping the wires doesn't change the resistance.
Normally one side is wired to "low reference" or ground, and the other side goes to the PCM. If that low reference side went to high reference it would be backwards.
They do make aftermarket fuel sensors that switch the full and empty resistance. If you took your fuel sensor apart, you might be able to mount it upside down...
RCK605
Well-Known Member
Made some more progress over the weekend. Saturday I painted the subframe, control arms, and knuckles. To help pass the time I loaded up the pellet grill.
Today I bolted in the subframe, mounted the cluster, and started mounting my heat exchanger and tail lights. I still need to put the transmission mount bolts in and torque everything. I'll do that after I finish testing all of the electrical so I only have to take the fuse box out once.
Does anyone know which bolt goes in the front transmission mount? I think I found one that will work, but not sure that it is the correct one.
Today I bolted in the subframe, mounted the cluster, and started mounting my heat exchanger and tail lights. I still need to put the transmission mount bolts in and torque everything. I'll do that after I finish testing all of the electrical so I only have to take the fuse box out once.
Does anyone know which bolt goes in the front transmission mount? I think I found one that will work, but not sure that it is the correct one.
RCK605
Well-Known Member
Slowly chipping away at what I can until my Stage 2 and 3 parts are ready to pick up. I got my headlights, mirrors, tail lights, and secondary HE and fans mounted. Working on getting everything wired. I bought a relay box to control my IC pump, DF supplied HE fan, and my two additional HE fans.
I ran into a similar issue as others had with the electrical 'timing out' and requiring the B+ to be disconnected. As with the others, my ignition 2 amp fuse on the BCM was blown.
I ran into a similar issue as others had with the electrical 'timing out' and requiring the B+ to be disconnected. As with the others, my ignition 2 amp fuse on the BCM was blown.
RCK605
Well-Known Member
It has been awhile since I posted an update. I've made a decent amount of progress, but for the most part it has been uneventful and without major issues to make the forum and future builders aware of.
I finished all of my electrical and cleaned up the wiring up front. I didn't want to use the multi-switch stalk so I ran all of my lights through a separate panel. I attempted to utilize the factory wiring and bypass the stalk with the switches, but couldn't get it to work. I believe this could be done, but I didn't want to cut up the harness too much in the event that I want to go back to the factory wiring. I also used this switch panel to control additional fans on a secondary heat exchanger and also the DF supplied HE fan and IC pump. I can now have those running at any time whether the car is on or not. The DF fan and IC pump are on one switch and the added fans are on another. I still have a little organizing to do on the back of the car, but will get to that when I re-install the fuse box after bleeding the clutch.
I finished all of my electrical and cleaned up the wiring up front. I didn't want to use the multi-switch stalk so I ran all of my lights through a separate panel. I attempted to utilize the factory wiring and bypass the stalk with the switches, but couldn't get it to work. I believe this could be done, but I didn't want to cut up the harness too much in the event that I want to go back to the factory wiring. I also used this switch panel to control additional fans on a secondary heat exchanger and also the DF supplied HE fan and IC pump. I can now have those running at any time whether the car is on or not. The DF fan and IC pump are on one switch and the added fans are on another. I still have a little organizing to do on the back of the car, but will get to that when I re-install the fuse box after bleeding the clutch.
RCK605
Well-Known Member
Now that the wiring is done it is time to start on the suspension. So far this has been going as expected and I've completed the front. The plan for the weekend is to finish the rear suspension and all of the brakes.
Wheels and tires are on order and due middle of next week. Driver's seat and harness are due to arrive this weekend. The car should be on the ground by next weekend. Then if all goes well a first drive by Thanksgiving.
Wheels and tires are on order and due middle of next week. Driver's seat and harness are due to arrive this weekend. The car should be on the ground by next weekend. Then if all goes well a first drive by Thanksgiving.
RCK605
Well-Known Member
Had a little snafu with the wheels. One was scratched so they had to order a new one. Should be ready to pick up tomorrow or Tuesday.
Suspension and brakes are finished. Shifter is installed. Engine coolant lines ran.
Remaining items are to plumb intercooler, bleed brakes and clutch, install drivers seat, shifter cables, park brake, and re-install fuse box.
Suspension and brakes are finished. Shifter is installed. Engine coolant lines ran.
Remaining items are to plumb intercooler, bleed brakes and clutch, install drivers seat, shifter cables, park brake, and re-install fuse box.
