Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

[Ross]

The rear full floating vented rotors are 11 lbs, and the 4 piston calipers and pads are 6 lbs 10 ounces. So 17 lbs 10 ounces total, give or take a few ounces for the scale's accuracy.

The Solstice single disk rotor is 9 lbs, 15 ounces, and the caliper with pads is 7 lbs, 13 ounces, for a total of 17 lbs, 12 ounces.

 

[Rttoys]

If you run the rears, what are you doing about a park brake?

 

[Ross]

There is no parking brake with the full floating brakes, it is just more race oriented. Since the rear brakes don't do most of the braking, and I use my goblin mostly as a street car, that got me thinking that I don't need all 4 as full floating brakes.

 

[Rttoys]

When I saw your classifieds ad, that’s what I was think’n you were think’n.

 

[Ross]

I installed the front right new brake caliper, this time I put the upright in the correct orientation.
Brake lines are on, but to bleed these 4 caliper pistons, I will need to remove the caliper, and rotate it so the bleeders are up. I could use an extra set of hands in the shop.

 

[Gtstorey]

I installed the front right new brake caliper, this time I put the upright in the correct orientation.
Brake lines are on, but to bleed these 4 caliper pistons, I will need to remove the caliper, and rotate it so the bleeders are up. I could use an extra set of hands in the shop.

not sure what I'm missing, but I don't think you have to bleed out of both nipples. Just the one on top.

 

[Ross]

Oh. Well that would be nice. I will update once I have tried, and see if it gets all the air out. I have had motorcycles that have needed to remove the calipers to bleed, so I just guessed this would be the same.

 

[Gtstorey]

I think since this sort of a "universal" caliper, it is designed to allow it to mount in multiple positions. This keeps it from having different calipers for each side.

But this is all an assumption on my part, I've never dealt with these particular calipers.

 

[Dale E]

Note: Most Wilwood calipers have two bleed nipples and some have four. Never bleed the lower screws that point downward. They are only there so that the caliper can be used on either side of the car.

 

[Joebob]

I installed the front right new brake caliper, this time I put the upright in the correct orientation.
Brake lines are on, but to bleed these 4 caliper pistons, I will need to remove the caliper, and rotate it so the bleeders are up. I could use an extra set of hands in the shop.
View attachment 47968

Did something change with the uprights to affect camber? you now have your upper bracket on the inside of the upright vs the conventional outside:

 

[Ross]

I have custom A arms on the top that are 1" shorter, and yes, the bracket is mounted differently.

 

[Rttoys]

Just need to bleed the upper nipples.

 

[Ross]

I bought 6mm longer Dorman Wheel Studs 610-323.1 for the rear hubs.

Then pressed out the stock studs.

Setting the full floating brake rotor on the hub, and then bolting the new AFCO caliper in place, everything seems to fit correctly.
The full floating brakes were designed around the new DF subframe, but I was wondering if I could make it work on the stock suspension.

Since the new brake rotor hat is going before my wheel adapters, I will need to modify the hat to the 5x110mm wheel pattern. I should have ordered them this way to begin with, but no big deal, as I have access to a milling machine. The rear hats have extra thickness to them, to space out the stock wheels about 15mm more. I probably should have got 15mm longer wheel studs, we will see.

 

[Ross]

Plan A was to keep my 39mm wheel adapter (above), but measuring the tire-to-shock space has me thinking of a Plan B.
With the Cobalt wheel bearings, stock brake rotor and my 39mm spacer/adapter, I have about 2" of space before the tire touches the shock.
So replacing the 39mm spacer + 5mm brake rotor thickness with the full floating 20mm brake rotor would move the wheel 24mm closer to the shock... which is < 1", and would fit.

To remove the adapter I need to redrill the stock hubs from 5x110mm to 5x114.3mm

Then replace the stock wheel studs with longer ones:
Jegs Press-In Wheel Studs M12-1.5 Thread x 3-1/4" Long x .509" Knurl

So out with the old wheel adapters, and in with the newly redrilled hubs.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Ross, this will change your front scrub radius and probably make your steering feel lighter. Maybe pick up a tenth or two at your next autoX?

 

[Ross]

The fronts were already redrilled hubs, Lonny & I fixed the scrub radius when we were working the front hopping issue. Only the rears had the adapter. Hopefully the better brake control, and less rotating mass will help with performance.

 

[Traé]

I'm shopping for insurance, and they wanted some pictures... so I vacuumed and washed the Goblin. It doesn't have the wiring harness in it, but the brakes and steering work. I also put the stock wheels and tires back on...
View attachment 9078

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This pic just looks phallic... I'm thinking insurance doesn't need to see this one.

View attachment 9082

Hey Ross,

Could you please share the hardware you used to mount the factory seatbelts? I don’t see a bag in the kit to mount them and couldn’t find many people that used the belts from the cobalt.
Thank you!

 

[Gtstorey]

Hey Ross,

Could you please share the hardware you used to mount the factory seatbelts? I don’t see a bag in the kit to mount them and couldn’t find many people that used the belts from the cobalt.
Thank you!

You reuse the stock mounting bolts, at least at the bottom at the tunnel.

 

[Ross]

The tunnel side on my car uses the Cobalt seatbelt clicker that is mounted to the Cobalt Recaro seats. The other side of the seat uses the stock seat belt bolt in the DF frame...I think I had to drill the hole bigger. I can take pictures tomorrow.

 

[Ross]

The blue belts are the 5 point harness, the driver's seat also has the stock 3 point seat belt.
Near the tunnel, my seat belts bolt to the stock Cobalt seats.

The top of the 3 point harness:

The seat belt retractor: (I covered it with HVAC aluminum tape, to keep rocks out)

The outside edge of the seat: