Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas
- Thread starter Ross
- Start date
Ross
Goblin Guru
Technically, yes, I have an installed oil pressure sensor.
I also made an arduino oil pressure gauge, and calibrated it.
I just haven't installed it inside a can, and in my goblin.
I also made an arduino oil pressure gauge, and calibrated it.
I just haven't installed it inside a can, and in my goblin.
Ross
Goblin Guru
My goblin wasn't running right, engine coughing and backfiring, seems like it doesn't know when to fire the spark plugs.
So I pulled the codes, and and followed this testing guide for the P0335 diagnostic trouble code.
Found out my purple wire is not connected from the PCM to the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor.
0x10: P0036 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 2) (History) (post catalytic converter O2 is missing on my goblin)
0x10: P0141 - O2 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 2) (SES, Pending, Current, History) (post catalytic converter O2 is missing on my goblin)
0x10: P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (SES, Pending, Current, History)
x: P0446 - Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit (SES, Pending, Current, History) (Evap is missing on my goblin)
0x10: P0480 - Fan 1 Control Circuit (SES, Pending, Current, History) (My fan is on a Davis Craig controller on my goblin)
x: P0532 - A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor A Circuit Low (Pending, Current, History) (AC is missing on my goblin)
0x10: P0615 - Starter Relay Circuit (SES, Pending, Current, History) (Maybe related ???)
x: P0833 - Clutch Pedal Switch B Circuit (Current, History) (Cruise control switch is missing on my goblin)
0x10: P1682 - Driver 5 Line 2 (Pending, History) (Maybe related ???)
I just read the testing guide for DTC for P1682, and it mentions: Ignition 1 voltage is supplied on 2 separate circuits to the PCM. If the PCM detects a voltage difference between the 2 circuits, DTC P1682 sets. Not sure if P0335 is related to this, or vise versa.
So I pulled the codes, and and followed this testing guide for the P0335 diagnostic trouble code.
Found out my purple wire is not connected from the PCM to the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor.
0x10: P0036 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 2) (History) (post catalytic converter O2 is missing on my goblin)
0x10: P0141 - O2 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 2) (SES, Pending, Current, History) (post catalytic converter O2 is missing on my goblin)
0x10: P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (SES, Pending, Current, History)
x: P0446 - Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit (SES, Pending, Current, History) (Evap is missing on my goblin)
0x10: P0480 - Fan 1 Control Circuit (SES, Pending, Current, History) (My fan is on a Davis Craig controller on my goblin)
x: P0532 - A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor A Circuit Low (Pending, Current, History) (AC is missing on my goblin)
0x10: P0615 - Starter Relay Circuit (SES, Pending, Current, History) (Maybe related ???)
x: P0833 - Clutch Pedal Switch B Circuit (Current, History) (Cruise control switch is missing on my goblin)
0x10: P1682 - Driver 5 Line 2 (Pending, History) (Maybe related ???)
I just read the testing guide for DTC for P1682, and it mentions: Ignition 1 voltage is supplied on 2 separate circuits to the PCM. If the PCM detects a voltage difference between the 2 circuits, DTC P1682 sets. Not sure if P0335 is related to this, or vise versa.
Ross
Goblin Guru
My goblin runs so much better, now that the purple wire in the CranKshaft Position (CKP) sensor is repaired.
I used my wife's Singer sewing machine needle to probe the middle of the purple wire, and found that there was electricity getting to the PCM C2 connector, but not to the CKP connector.
I think Chevy switched the CKP connector sometime in 2006, as my car had a part# 200776 adaptor that changes the CKP connector to a different style one.
Since my purple wire was broken just before the adapter connector, I decided to cut the extra connector out, and solder my CKP connector straight to the engine harness.
Lining up the new CKP sensor, and pushing it in the block was a PITA, but a 2 foot long metal bar was able to push it the remaining 1/8" from under the car. Put the starter motor back in, installed the intercooler pump, connected the battery ground, used HP Tuners to tell the PCM to relearn the CKP sensor, and then took it for test run, logging data just to make sure everything is good.
I think it is ready for this Sunday's autocross.
I used my wife's Singer sewing machine needle to probe the middle of the purple wire, and found that there was electricity getting to the PCM C2 connector, but not to the CKP connector.
I think Chevy switched the CKP connector sometime in 2006, as my car had a part# 200776 adaptor that changes the CKP connector to a different style one.
Since my purple wire was broken just before the adapter connector, I decided to cut the extra connector out, and solder my CKP connector straight to the engine harness.
Lining up the new CKP sensor, and pushing it in the block was a PITA, but a 2 foot long metal bar was able to push it the remaining 1/8" from under the car. Put the starter motor back in, installed the intercooler pump, connected the battery ground, used HP Tuners to tell the PCM to relearn the CKP sensor, and then took it for test run, logging data just to make sure everything is good.
I think it is ready for this Sunday's autocross.
Ross
Goblin Guru
VCM Scanner, connect to your vehicle.
Then Vehicle / Controls & Special Functions.
Then under Special Functions, there is a Crank Relearn. I pressed the button, slowly rev'd up the engine until I hit engine cut off, then waited until the engine died down to a low idle. No confirmation that relearn was done, but I cycled the key, and it seems good to go.
Then Vehicle / Controls & Special Functions.
Then under Special Functions, there is a Crank Relearn. I pressed the button, slowly rev'd up the engine until I hit engine cut off, then waited until the engine died down to a low idle. No confirmation that relearn was done, but I cycled the key, and it seems good to go.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
The right foot…..she got a little happy early on exits…….Play day. Too much sun & fun.
Ross
Goblin Guru
The brake hat on the Full Floating Race Brakes was about 1.5mm too small in diameter to fit my hubs.
So the hubs lost a little metal using my precision lathe grinder.
The brake hat also needed a bit more of a chamfer to match my hubs, so some more precision work was done.
I mounted the new aluminum hat backwards on the hub, and used some spacers behind it to expose that inner edge that needed grinding.
Here is the finished chamfer.
The old front single piston caliper, used brake shoes and brake disk weighs 26 lbs, 8 oz.
Here it is with full floating brake disc, 4 piston caliper and new brake shoes.
So the hubs lost a little metal using my precision lathe grinder.
The brake hat also needed a bit more of a chamfer to match my hubs, so some more precision work was done.
I mounted the new aluminum hat backwards on the hub, and used some spacers behind it to expose that inner edge that needed grinding.
Here is the finished chamfer.
The old front single piston caliper, used brake shoes and brake disk weighs 26 lbs, 8 oz.
Here it is with full floating brake disc, 4 piston caliper and new brake shoes.
Last edited:
Ross
Goblin Guru
I mounted the new Justin Reed uprights with the hole on the bottom, like the stock DF uprights, but then noticed that the steering arm was too high. I checked JR's pics, and I have it upside down. The correct orientation is with that extra hole on the bottom.
The distance between the top of the hat, and the new brake caliper is too much for my 15" wheels, but it fits good with my 17" wheels.
I need to add a 15mm spacer for the 15" wheels.
These wheels fit.
The distance between the top of the hat, and the new brake caliper is too much for my 15" wheels, but it fits good with my 17" wheels.
I need to add a 15mm spacer for the 15" wheels.
These wheels fit.
Attachments
Last edited:
Ross
Goblin Guru
Now I am confused. I overlaid Justin's front upright over the DF front upright, and the only difference is the 2 brake caliper holes.
Adam's pic of his car has the extra hole on the bottom
And Justin's car has that same hole on the top. I'm not sure which way is correct. Adam's car is correct.
Adam's pic of his car has the extra hole on the bottom
Last edited:
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
This is what I thought it was supposed to be.
Ross
Goblin Guru
If I remember correctly, when Dale E and I were checking front bump steer, the lower the tie rod attached to the steering arm, the less the bump steer.
That is what got me looking for a bump steer kit for a Cobalt.
Maybe Justin Reed has found a way to lower the steering arm, without using a bump steer kit, by flipping the billet upright.
I would need to tape a laser to my front brake disc, remove the front shock, at test the bump steer again.
That is what got me looking for a bump steer kit for a Cobalt.
I would need to tape a laser to my front brake disc, remove the front shock, at test the bump steer again.
Last edited:
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Do you have some photos?
High speed instability
I'll try and take some pictures tonight. How close to level are you toe rods?