Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

[Torchandregdoc]

Where do I run the extra heater hose?
Did I loop the right heater hose?
View attachment 8843

I know this is an old post, and it sounds like you may have a solution already, but whenever you need a custom hose, ask the guys at auto zone if you can go in the back and look for a hose. They have 100's, with every shape and size imaginable. You can usually find a longer hose with the bend you are looking for out in the middle of the hose and just cut that section out. It will look factory.

 

[Ross]

Today I put the wiring harness in the back of the Goblin.
I have one plug on the engine harness that I don't know where it is suppose to go.

 

[Dylan Stan]

MAF Sensor plug

 

[askiles]

Yeah, it looks like the MAF. Which from your pic, it looks like you don't have the air intake in place, so that's why you aren't seeing it. ;-)

 

[askiles]

Today I put the wiring harness in the back of the Goblin.
I have one plug on the engine harness that I don't know where it is suppose to go.
View attachment 9170

View attachment 9171

Also noticed from the pic that you may have your fuel pump hat oriented the wrong way. Can you post a pic of how you oriented it? The lines coming out should point towards the driver's side, and ever so slightly forward.

 

[Ross]

Ah. Thanks Dylan and Andy. That makes sense.

 

[Ross]

Should I cut the 2 radiator fan connectors out?
I accidentally broke the return nipple off my pump.
So I followed someone's example here, and drilled it out, then epoxy'ed in a metal tube.

 

[askiles]

Should I cut the 2 radiator fan connectors out?
I accidentally broke the return nipple off my pump.
So I followed someone's example here, and drilled it out, then epoxy'ed in a metal tube.
View attachment 9172

Ah you have it pointed the correct direction

You have no need for the other radiator fan wiring. So sure. I did.

 

[Ross]

Test & debugging. Help!

 

[Torchandregdoc]

It's aliiive.

 

[ctuinstra]

That's funny, every time Kaleb starts the car, it stays in the lower garage below our bedroom, it scares the **** out of me!

 

[askiles]

Test & debugging. Help!

The lack of pressing or plugging in the clutch pedal usually gets people. Lol. It did to me at first. Then BAM, it hit me. Press the clutch.

 

[Ross]

Well, the excitement of starting my engine was short lived. If I rev up the engine, I get the dreaded "Engine power reduced".
There are 5 additional codes thrown when in reduced power (U2711, B0200, C2822, P28CB, P28A2)
Where do I go to look these up?

I tried looking them up in AlldataDIY.com - but it is useless.
Also tried looking it up here, but also no-luck:
Chevrolet Cobalt 2005-2010.zip\Chevrolet Cobalt 2005-2010\Cobalt & G5_2005-2008

Do the Goblins always have Evap codes thrown? (P0449, P0452)
Also getting P1101 (inlet air flow?)
P1182 (supercharger inlet pressure?)
U2622
P2800
P00A2
B0E11
B0222
P002D

 

[Karter2026]

Evap codes will be there because you most likely do not have the evap hooked up. Most of those are generic codes that will fall from some other trigger code.

The B code is a body code I am looking through my AllData and can find none of those codes. The closest that I came was this body code
DTC B0022

DTC DESCRIPTOR

DTC B0022 01
Right Front Seat Belt Pretensioner Deployment Loop Short to Battery

DTC B0022 02
Right Front Seat Belt Pretensioner Deployment Loop Short to Ground

DTC B0022 04
Right Front Seat Belt Pretensioner Deployment Loop Open Circuit

DTC B0022 0D
Right Front Seat Belt Pretensioner Deployment Loop Resistance Above Threshold

DTC B0022 0E
Right Front Seat Belt Pretensioner Deployment Loop Resistance Below Threshold


That is the same exact stuff that comes from your AlData DIY. Just have to think outside the box some on these. It shows the same information as my pro subscription The only thing that it does not include is the interactive wiring diagrams. I'll be honest the interactive are not all that great. The only plus id it shows up in a color instead of black and white.

P1101 Is going to be related to MAF that will also most likely trigger the P1182

 

[Ross]

Thanks Karter. I was expecting an exact match on engine codes to error messages.
Do I need to lower my expectations, for all the aftermarket information?
Would a chevy dealer have access to the exact engine codes info for my 2006 SS SC LSJ?

So far I am putting my goblin under close inspection. Some suspect issues are:
- I found a hole in the muffler. Guessing the 2nd O2 sensor goes in there. Need to harvest that off the donor. Not sure where it plugs in.
- I need to put the Tee in my gas tank breather hose, as my tank may develope pressure/vacuum.
- All the evap and SRS stuff is removed from the kit, so those codes are now expected.

 

[Karter2026]

#1Do I need to lower my expectations, for all the aftermarket information?
#2 Would a chevy dealer have access to the exact engine codes info for my 2006 SS SC LSJ?

So far I am putting my goblin under close inspection. Some suspect issues are:
#3 I found a hole in the muffler. Guessing the 2nd O2 sensor goes in there. Need to harvest that off the donor. Not sure where it plugs in.
#4 I need to put the Tee in my gas tank breather hose, as my tank may develope pressure/vacuum.

Here is my thoughts on this.
#1. Not really. But dont expect a code to send you right to the direct problem. A bad O2 sensor can send a number of codes and mis lead you some.

#2 Maybe. I would not be concerned with it for the short term. Long term I would get the un needed codes tuned out with HP Tuners. (ex. P0452 P0420( see #3)) and other codes then work thru the remaining ones.

#3 That hole in the muffler is for a downstream O2 sensor. You will not need it unless you are running a CAT That will most likely cause the above mentioned P0420 Catylist efficiency code. And O2 code for bank 1 Sensor 2 I do not remember the exact code but P0452 sticks out. You could use that hole down the road for a AFR gauge to aid in tuning.

#4 Yes it will aid in filling the tank also.

My car has a body code and the evap and O2 codes. I am not worried at all. I want to drive it a little and worry about the big problems if any arise first. I think the body code is seatbelt related

Just my 2 cents

 

[Ross]

Update: I fixed the "Engine Reduced Power" issue!!!
Also, this wire use to go to the AC lines. Temp or pressure in the freon is my guess.
Anyone know what this extra wire is? It is near the AC compressor and the intercooler pump.

I put the 2nd O2 sensor in, and found where the wire goes.

And I found a vacuum leak in the intake. I hadn't removed the evap solenoid yet, so I did that too, and taped off the hole in the intake.

Then I cleared the engine codes.
Engine codes left with the key on:
P0452, P2228
Then start the engine:
P0443, P0449, P0452, B1922, P2800, P00CB. (The P2228 disappeared)
Then rev the engine above 3800 RPM, which results in "Engine Power Reduced"
new codes: P0068, B1900, C2822, P00A1
old codes: P0443, P0449, P0452, P2800

I ran this test twice, got the same results both times.

Update: There is info on internet about P0068
P0068 - throttle position and engine load do not agree. Probable causes:

1. Check engine for vacuum leak
2. Check engine condition - mechanical condition
3. Plugged exhaust or intake
4. Transmission condition

 

[Ross]

I found it! No more "Engine Reduced Power" - it revs to redline!
What was it?

There was a sensor on the engine that wasn't plugged in. Hidden under the vaccum lines.
Plugged it in, and it revs!
The engine still has 5 codes, but they are the same whether it is off, running or reving:
P0443, P0449, P0452, B1900 and P00D9.

Yippie! Good thing I got insurance and the plates yesterday - I plan on driving this weekend!

 

[Ross]

Well I took it for several test drives, and after the little stuff got debugged, Ian and I drove into town, and had ice cream.
We racked up 15 miles on it today.

First impressions on my first time driving a Goblin:
- I'm still bad in first gear, as it hard to accelerate smoothly, and easy to start getting jerky.
if/when it starts to get rough, I either shift into 2nd or floor it in 1st.
- Steering is darty around 50 or 60 mph. I'll take it for a wheel alignment on Monday.
- 1st gear is quick to hit redline. Hang on & concentrate.
- 2nd gear is fun! Love the SC whine!
- Brakes are better than the 215mm Cobalt tires.
- It is so nice to be able to see exact tire locations. Precision driving is easy.
- 0-60 in 5.6 seconds - according to the "drag racer" app. Hard to get a good start without wheel spin... need to put my track tires on.
- On the way home, we noticed the brakes dragging. Pull up on the pedal, and it solves the problem. Need to adjust the brake pedal.
- The clutch pedal is too close to the frame... need to trim the side close to the steering shaft, and move it over.
- Relax, my goal of getting it running by mid-July is met. Time to tune and adjust.
update:
- It is easy to leave the turn signal on above 20MPH, as you can't hear it over the glorious exhaust notes.
- Need to fix the radiator fan, as it didn't turn on, even when the engine temp got to 208F.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Great work! I'm sure you are glad to have your Goblin built and drivable. The tweaks and refinement will make it into a great driver and that 5.6 sec time will come down as you get comfortable with your car. Fantastic!