askiles
Goblin Guru
That’s one of the 2 MAP sensors.
Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas
- Thread starter Ross
- Start date
Ross
Goblin Guru
Took it in to Kwik Kar for a wheel alignment today. They can't do "race cars".
Sent me to a shop 30 minute drive away, and got an appointment for next week.
So I drove about 50 miles today. It definitely gets people's attention. I'm not use to that.
So I'm keeping the stock wheels on this week - looking forward to putting on the new tires,
but it is giving me time to figure out/debug the car.
I need to debug why the front fan is never turning on. Fuse is good. Fan is tested.
Maybe relay, maybe the ECM, maybe a different temp sensor? The dash shows 180-208F, depending on when I checked it.
I soldered a long wire from the fusebox, black engine connector, light blue heavy wire, all the way to the front radiator fan. Ground is good.
Any suggestions?
Sent me to a shop 30 minute drive away, and got an appointment for next week.
So I drove about 50 miles today. It definitely gets people's attention. I'm not use to that.
So I'm keeping the stock wheels on this week - looking forward to putting on the new tires,
but it is giving me time to figure out/debug the car.
I need to debug why the front fan is never turning on. Fuse is good. Fan is tested.
Maybe relay, maybe the ECM, maybe a different temp sensor? The dash shows 180-208F, depending on when I checked it.
I soldered a long wire from the fusebox, black engine connector, light blue heavy wire, all the way to the front radiator fan. Ground is good.
Any suggestions?
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
Well I took it for several test drives, and after the little stuff got debugged, Ian and I drove into town, and had ice cream.
We racked up 15 miles on it today.
First impressions on my first time driving a Goblin:
- I'm still bad in first gear, as it hard to accelerate smoothly, and easy to start getting jerky.
if/when it starts to get rough, I either shift into 2nd or floor it in 1st. Yep! Many have that same comment including us. You get better with practice. I've gotten really good by holding my foot against the tunnel. We are going to detune using the torque management to make that easier this winter. I may even add a stiff spring to the pedal.
- Steering is darty around 50 or 60 mph. I'll take it for a wheel alignment on Monday. Yep again! Common, alignment helps but what really helped us was to lower the front and rake the car a bit. If you notice the DF group had their noses on the ground in Arkansas. I don't like loosening up the spring that much because the top cap could dislodge or fall out if the springs are every unloaded.
- 1st gear is quick to hit redline. Hang on & concentrate. Yep! No argument here!
- 2nd gear is fun! Love the SC whine! Yep! No argument here!
- Brakes are better than the 215mm Cobalt tires. Wait until you get good tires! These things will stop!
- It is so nice to be able to see exact tire locations. Precision driving is easy.
- 0-60 in 5.6 seconds - according to the "drag racer" app. Hard to get a good start without wheel spin... need to put my track tires on.
- On the way home, we noticed the brakes dragging. Pull up on the pedal, and it solves the problem. Need to adjust the brake pedal. See my posts on this, we had the same issue. Check the adjustment of the brake switches to allow more play in the pedal when not depressed.
- The clutch pedal is too close to the frame... need to trim the side close to the steering shaft, and move it over.
- Relax, my goal of getting it running by mid-July is met. Time to tune and adjust.
update:
- It is easy to leave the turn signal on above 20MPH, as you can't hear it over the glorious exhaust notes. You should have a canceller installed, the kit comes with one.
- Need to fix the radiator fan, as it didn't turn on, even when the engine temp got to 208F. Seems odd, I have never heard our fan and the car doesn't go higher than 180, you might have air in the system still.
As I read through this, I have so many notes/comments. Added above.
Congratulations on getting it on the road!
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
More specifically, it's the barometric pressure sensor. It detects the atmosphere pressure to compare to the MAP pressure. That's why there are two, one in the intake and one outside that it's hose fitting is not connected to anything. They are the exact same sensor and the connectors are the same also and easy to swap. I had to look at the wiring diagram to be able to determine which plugs into which.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
The best way to test is to jump the fan relay just like you did with the fuel pump relay. If the fan works then, your wiring is correct and it's up to the ECM to control it. And like Lonny said, it may be that it has to get a lot warmer for it to turn on. I have NEVER heard ours kick on. As far as I know, it may not even work.
You decided to go with a pusher setup????? They are not nearly as efficient and usually only use when there is no other alternative.
Ross
Goblin Guru
I was stealing George Bradley's engineering design, and planning on adding a torsion anti-roll bar up front.
Since the bar uses the space where the fan should go, he moved it to the other side. I just started with it there.
Thank-you for the info. Luckily I had read it, and that is why I knew to try lifting the brake pedal. Today I backed off the brake switches all the way... but it is still holding the brakes on a bit, and it even leaves the middle brake light on, until you lift the pedal. Is there an adjustment between the pedal and the master brake cylinder? Or maybe I can try putting washers in there, and make the master touch the front radiator.
I have the stock Cobalt canceller installed... I never took it apart... but it is cancelling at the wrong spots. If I turn the wheel enough, it cancels.
Guess I need to debug my own engineering.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
I had to bend the brake light switch bracket on the second build to get it away from the pedal. I think some of the donor cars had more space between the pedal box and the booster.
The canceller should be pointing at the turn signal stalk when the wheels are straight. When we first installed our, I put it 180 out and it would still cancel but you had to crank the wheel to get it to do so.
The canceller should be pointing at the turn signal stalk when the wheels are straight. When we first installed our, I put it 180 out and it would still cancel but you had to crank the wheel to get it to do so.
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
Well That answers some questions on my end.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
The SCs must be a bit different. My fan comes on at ~205.
askiles
Goblin Guru
Looking at HP Tuners, I think they fan in the stock form is set to come on at a lower percentage at like 196 degrees. I put it to 100% on all, but the table doesn't start until 196, so I assume that's where the relay kicks in. I can also set the relay to kick in just on "key on", but that's probably way overkill, even for AZ. I haven't had any issues keeping it cool.
Ross
Goblin Guru
Where is the oil coming from?
It looks like engine oil coming out of the CV joint, but there isn't any engine oil in the CV joint, right?
The transmission gasket is in line with the oil drops, but I don't see any oil drops on it...
It only leaks when driving - no drops on the shop floor.
Might have to go for a drive, with the GoPro mounted back here.
- I ran a jumper in Fan1 relay, and it turns on the fan, so I guess it is the ECU that is deciding if the fan will run. I will watch the temp...
Changed all the controls:
- moved the clutch pedal over closer to the steering column, after cutting the side of the pedal stem nearest the steering column.
- put a spacer under the bottom of the brake booster to tip it up, and make it farther from the brake pedal... but it binds too much for the spring to return the pedal, so I need to add a spacer to the top too... and hope it doesn't hit the radiator.
- put a 2" spacer on the gas pedal. Now it is parallel to the brake. Clutch is still closer.
- took the cloth cover off the shifter, tightened all the shifter bolts and cables.
- moved my parking brake 1.5" farther away from the rear firewall. Used rivnuts instead of nuts.
- fixed the autocancel on the turn signals. Moved the steering wheel a little closer to front.
- added a horn button on the steering wheel, removed all the steering wheel extra wires (cruise control, radio controls, and SRS airbag)
- Still haven't wrapped all the wires up to the dash yet... waiting until debugging is done, and verifying that everything works.
It looks like engine oil coming out of the CV joint, but there isn't any engine oil in the CV joint, right?
The transmission gasket is in line with the oil drops, but I don't see any oil drops on it...
It only leaks when driving - no drops on the shop floor.
Might have to go for a drive, with the GoPro mounted back here.
- I ran a jumper in Fan1 relay, and it turns on the fan, so I guess it is the ECU that is deciding if the fan will run. I will watch the temp...
Changed all the controls:
- moved the clutch pedal over closer to the steering column, after cutting the side of the pedal stem nearest the steering column.
- put a spacer under the bottom of the brake booster to tip it up, and make it farther from the brake pedal... but it binds too much for the spring to return the pedal, so I need to add a spacer to the top too... and hope it doesn't hit the radiator.
- put a 2" spacer on the gas pedal. Now it is parallel to the brake. Clutch is still closer.
- took the cloth cover off the shifter, tightened all the shifter bolts and cables.
- moved my parking brake 1.5" farther away from the rear firewall. Used rivnuts instead of nuts.
- fixed the autocancel on the turn signals. Moved the steering wheel a little closer to front.
- added a horn button on the steering wheel, removed all the steering wheel extra wires (cruise control, radio controls, and SRS airbag)
- Still haven't wrapped all the wires up to the dash yet... waiting until debugging is done, and verifying that everything works.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Odd question, but what's it smell like? Maybe the thicker grease inside the CV axle is separating itself from the thinner components and dripping out through a small tear in the boot.
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Ross
Goblin Guru
I think you are right. Need to buy a new boot, or maybe the whole axle assembly. I found a small cut in the boot.
askiles
Goblin Guru
That makes sense! Yeah just buy a CV boot and clamps, swap it, grease it, seal it, call it done.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
The master cylinder has the spring to return the pedal. It's usually pretty stout, especially if you have ever tried to bench bleed one. Either the pedal box and associated linkage is in a bind not letting it return or there is something up with the spring in the master cylinder.
Torchandregdoc
Goblin Guru
Sounds like your binding problem for which you put in the spacer, when you did your pedal box re-align, might not be resolved. Possibly pushing on the brake pedal is putting it in more of a bind and that's why you're experiencing a worsening condition. You may try loosening all of the bolts and see if that frees it up.