Towerdog
Goblin Guru
This is my second slave. Went with an OEM from zzp and measured and spaced per their specs shown in video above.
Towerdog's Indiana Street Goblin Build (#250) 07 SS/SC Donor
- Thread starter Towerdog
- Start date
What friction disc and pressure plate are you using?
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
An XTR stage 2
I’m curious if the slave cylinder is still hyper extending even with the spacer due to soft fingers on the pressure plate. Do you have the factory pressure plate to try? Not sure if it’d work with the XTR friction plate, but worth a shot. The factory pressure plate shouldn’t need the throw out spacer.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
No I piched it along w the fly wheel.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
I dont follow you on the soft fingers.... does that mean they are mushy or easy to release pressure?
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
So I had a six hour flight to Alaska today and have had time to ponder, think and read! Some Miata guys were complaining about the same thing.... someone stated that the long horizontal run across the firewall will hold air... well mine was "fine" until I went down my steep driveway then gonedy. So I think I will bleed it one more time with the back end jacked up, Vac it then pedal pump.
The pressure plate has the fingers in the middle which the throw out bearing pushes against, disengaging the clutch. While I doubt this is an issue, given you’ve replaced everything else except the clutch assembly, it’d be the only other thing to try IMO. If those fingers are easier to push against compared to say the OEM pressure plate, the throw out bearing could be pushing past them more than it should causing it to hyper extend.
If this is true, have you tried to vacuum bleed the system using GM’s recommended method while also cycling the clutch?
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
I follow you... could see that without the spacer.... but if it was blowing past bottoming out now, that would be a crap clutch lol
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
Many times.... weird thing is is that doing that makes the brakes go to mush... I can pump them back but.... why?
Lonny has stated a couple times on here that the stock reservoir requires a high level of brake fluid in it in order to bleed the clutch, otherwise it starts to pull air again. My recommendation would be to change to a dual reservoir setup. That’s what I will be doing during my build. But I’m also switching to manual brakes and going to be using the Wilwood kit: Tandem Remote Master Cylinder - 7/8" Bore,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUR2AHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K0XM5GC8WXP52AC69MTG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
This keeps it full..
Attachments
DCMoney
Goblin Guru
If this is the case something else is very wrong. Other than the reservoir the brakes have nothing to do with the clutch. Once your brakes are bleed the amount of fluid that is used to actuate the brakes is very little. I highly doubt you are removing any fluid out of your brake lines bleeding the clutch. But you have been trying every single way to bleed a hydraulic system known to man, so who knows...
I was looking for pictures of your brake and clutch line set up at the front of the car, and ran across this picture. Are you sure your clutch pedal is fully extending to the released position? Chad had issues with his brake pedal not fully releasing and causing bleeding issues on his brakes.
Towerdog's Indiana Street Goblin Build (#250) 07 SS/SC Donor
This has been the hardest thing to do so far! It has curled in making it about 2" too narrow in the back..... a lot of clamps were involved. Is this the fiberglass footwell cover option? I purchased it with my kit, but didn't realize it was basically a second hood in size.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
When vac pumping from the res the brakes are involved in a way..If this is the case something else is very wrong. Other than the reservoir the brakes have nothing to do with the clutch. Once your brakes are bleed the amount of fluid that is used to actuate the brakes is very little. I highly doubt you are removing any fluid out of your brake lines bleeding the clutch. But you have been trying every single way to bleed a hydraulic system known to man, so who knows...
I was looking for pictures of your brake and clutch line set up at the front of the car, and ran across this picture. Are you sure your clutch pedal is fully extending to the released position? Chad had issues with his brake pedal not fully releasing and causing bleeding issues on his brakes.
View attachment 25379
Towerdog's Indiana Street Goblin Build (#250) 07 SS/SC Donor
This has been the hardest thing to do so far! It has curled in making it about 2" too narrow in the back..... a lot of clamps were involved. Is this the fiberglass footwell cover option? I purchased it with my kit, but didn't realize it was basically a second hood in size.dfkitcar.com
And I had to weld a washer as a shim in front of the pedal housing to keep the pedal from over extending. It currently is slightly over what stock was.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
If you used 2 qts and I only cycled one im starting to buy into the fact that I'm rushing it and still have air in the hard line in the tunnel.
Like I said before if I get time between trips I am going to jack one end or the other up and vac or pressure fluid through it in mass quantities.
DCMoney
Goblin Guru
You need to revert back to OEM as much as possible, you've changed a lot of things not many others have had to do for a functional clutch. You're reading into your issues and looking for parts to fix your problem, go back to OEM. Bleeding the clutch is very simple, stop over complicating it with vacuum bleeders, pressure bleeders etc. I've never had to jack either end of the car up to successfully bleed my clutch.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
So this afternoon I gave my clutch another shot. Ran almost a quart through it. Still no improvement,,,, I am starting to believe that the master is sucking air. Why? Well I can up down till there is little to no bubbles in the hose. Pump the dickens out of the pedal and the next time you go down and crack the bleeder... nothing but foam!