Absolutely! I'm very happy with all the painted parts so far. I really can't wait to see it all come together!Looking good! Those Steel-It frames always seem to come out looking great.
Yea, I read a few others having similar clearance issues. I think my method in mind will work. If it wasn't for having another motor open in the shop, I would have been grinding away! And thanks for the tips on the other 2 things. The ring I new about, but the clutch line I hadn't put any thought into. When I get that pedal in place, that will be next!Looking good. Most builders have to pull on the clutch pedal to the side and bend the bracket for clearance.
Also, you can cut off the ring that held the ignition to the steering column. It is no longer needed. Be warned, that metal is tough.
Also, I would go ahead and lay in the clutch line. If you dont do it now, it can be a pain to get in, especially when the engine / firewall are in.
I thought about doing the engine harness too, but the original corrugated plastic seems in ok shape. Since this stuff isn't heat resistant, I would just need to be careful where it goes. Your idea of spark plug insulators would work great in hot locations. OEM applications use like a reflective tape too for harnesses near catalysts - might be another good option. I just really wanted to get away from only a taped interface all over the front of the car and this stuff cleaned up the look a lot!Nice, I purchased the same loom material for my build. Are you planning on re-looming the engine harness to match? I also purchased some spark plug insulators to rework the engine harness as there are several locations on my tc where heat insulation of the harness is a must.
Looks good!A long weekend of weddings and driving around... but also a few updates here too. Couple of questions:
1: Do your SS/SC coolant hoses route like this? It all will fit... so maybe that's all that counts.
Generally, yes. If the hose going over the trans clears the shifter linkages, then you're good. I think I just clocked the hose on the barb a bit and locked it in place with the clamp to buy a little extra room.
2: Does your coolant reservoir relocation mount like this?
Yes; I can't remember if I put my mount bracket on the front or rear surface of that frame bracket, but I don't think it makes a difference.
1. For the most part, yes. There’s a lot of things wanting the same space, so you just have to make it work1: Do your SS/SC coolant hoses route like this? It all will fit... so maybe that's all that counts.
2: Does your coolant reservoir relocation mount like this?
It’s fairly simple. The stock cobalt setup uses (roughly) 60% of its braking on the front. With the big heavy drivetrain sitting right on top of it, this works perfectly. When you put that system in a goblin, 60% front is huge overkill because all of your weight is in the back and the rears will (basically) do nothing. I found that my rear rotors never even got hot at all, under any conditions. under normal braking, it’s fine and you’ll probably never notice that the front is doing all the work, but you stab the brakes or in a panic situation and the fronts lock instantly, then you know.It's something I continue to see as well. I think it all will boil down to balance and being able to manage the heat. I agree there will probably need a proportioning valve somewhere, but I can't think of many race car type build applications where less brakes are better overall for performance. I'm just as curious to see. I'm also close to my rim at this point (15s) so I may reconsider in the end, but it's worth a try!