V1 A-Arm/Upright Assembly

[Sparvy]

Ok so I know the new parts vary from the older videos that I used as a reference to assemble but I've seen some uprights assembled in several different configurations here

. Do I have these put together correctly with the 90's on the top and bottom in the right orientation. Also let me know if you see anything else that seems wacky.

 

[k.rollin]

Referencing my car, it looks like the orientation of the 90's is transposed

 

[Sparvy]

Referencing my car, it looks like the orientation of the 90's is transposed

Thank you. I'm going to fit them tonight so the help is much appreciated.

 

[JBINTX]

Are you concerned about the coating you used on the aluminum parts? Looks fairly thick with the unsmooth surface. Does look pretty, though.
I know the Sierra Pikes Peak racer had a suspension failure do to suspension powder coated parts wearing against each other and then losing bolt torque. Not sure if you will be pushing yours that hard or not.
Just a thought.

 

[Sparvy]

I thought about the powdercoating being too thick as well but it does look thicker than it is. I did clear all of the bolt holes with a drill/file before assembly and plan on checking all of the fasteners periodically (especially suspension pieces). I do expect there may be some "crush" to the powdercoating in the beginning. I know a lot of people prime, paint and clear those uprights so it would be interesting to see if fastener loosening has happened to anyone.. The car for the first year at least will be for the road only with an occasional time trial added in once it's proven that its reliable and been shaken down.

 

[Waterdriver]

The area of concern would be under the bolt head and nut washer areas. Being a hammerite finish, it has little mountain and valley areas the washer rests on.
The powdercoating possibly being strong enough to support bolt torque. Now add stresses/load/impacts from driving use, whether normal or performance driving, can cause that hammerite finish (mountain tops) to compress and essentially loosen those bolts.
If you torqued them already you might want to take one off and examine underneath the washer and see if it squashed the finish flat or not. If it did you should be fine.
If it didn't under torque alone, it is of some concern. Imagine all those bolts loosening a little. That little movement, multiplied, that's a lot of slop. In addition, adding shock/impact stress loads to those bolts and bolt holes.
Just something to look at, being that steering is a critical component.

 

[Lonny]

Another option would be to test drive and then check the torque. Then check after 100 miles, 500 miles, 2000 miles 10000 and then 100000.
If it is not getting looser between each torque check you should be good to go.

 

[Waterdriver]

Another option would be to test drive and then check the torque. Then check after 100 miles, 500 miles, 2000 miles 10000 and then 100000.
If it is not getting looser between each torque check you should be good to go.

Agreed.
Just trying to eliminate creating a maintenance item.

 

[Sparvy]

I am planning on checking all important fasteners during shakedown and before any and all track events. Having a failure on that upright is not in the plan book.

 

[ctuinstra]

I go around the car from time to time and check fasteners just to be sure, and so far, I haven't really found anything. I picked up this practice from Kaleb's years of racing ATV's and RC cars, the RC cars always had small nuts and bolts coming loose and anything could cause you to lose a race.

 

[MJP61]

Which holes are supposed to be used for the steering arm attaching to the uprights?

 

[Ross]

The lower to the ground (when mounted in your goblin) you can make the steering arms, the less bump steer.