SmsDetroit
Goblin Guru
- SmsDetroit Goblin Guru
correct. I used one to find my problem. Rented it from AutoZone. Remember you will angle the camera back towards the drivers side to see the slave cylinder
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SmsDetroit
Goblin Guru
- SmsDetroit Goblin Guru
No. There is a O-ring that goes behind the throw out bearing. Mine was deformed from being in the box so I used a bit of silicone to make sure it didn’t move while I was installing the throwout bearing
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
- ATMironov Well-Known Member
Well it finally happened.
Kit #280 has been on it's first drive!
The first drive was actually three days of testing at Laguna Seca and I'm pretty happy with the results.
After replacing the rear main seal, I was crunched for time to get ready so I just zeroed out the tow and didn't mess with camber or caster.
I ran out of time to mount the passenger seat and opted for minimal body work to facilitate ease of working on the car.
I spent Friday evening and most of the day Saturday preforming basic testing and troubleshooting. Laguna Seca has a pretty nice set of ring roads to dive on for the shakedown.
It took me a while to track it down, but I had a bad factory connector to one of my MAP sensors. I was able to cut out the connector and got the code to clear.
Sunday I was able to put in a fair number of laps on track.
Although far from the limits of the car, I'm pleased with the first outing.
The AIM dash wasn't displaying RPMs correctly, so really had no idea where to shift. Watching some videos back and looking at speeds, I was defiantly short shifting.
Known problems:
1. Clutch Position Sensor - My solution for the CPPS is throwing a code and will keep the car from starting
2. Throttle Position Sensor - A couple time I got a TPPS error putting the car into Limp Mode
3. Power steering doesn't work - I didn't even try to diagnose this
4. High IAT. I think I finally got all the air out of the wet side of the intercooler, but I need to get a fan or a scoop (or both) on the radiator to bring the water temps down.
5. AIM Dash not displaying RPMs
I'll be back out in December (assuming no rain) and hopefully will have the following done:
1. ZZP remote tune
2. Fix pedal sensors
3. Intercooler radiators fan
4. Fix AIM dash RPM issue
5. Bench test ABS
6. Mount remaining body work
7. Connect sway bars
8. Full alignment and corner balance
I'm using an AIM smarty cam, and do have video of every single time the car start to move, but here is just one video of a few shakedown laps.
I'll re-position the camera next time so its below the rear view mirror.
Kit #280 has been on it's first drive!
The first drive was actually three days of testing at Laguna Seca and I'm pretty happy with the results.
After replacing the rear main seal, I was crunched for time to get ready so I just zeroed out the tow and didn't mess with camber or caster.
I ran out of time to mount the passenger seat and opted for minimal body work to facilitate ease of working on the car.
I spent Friday evening and most of the day Saturday preforming basic testing and troubleshooting. Laguna Seca has a pretty nice set of ring roads to dive on for the shakedown.
It took me a while to track it down, but I had a bad factory connector to one of my MAP sensors. I was able to cut out the connector and got the code to clear.
Sunday I was able to put in a fair number of laps on track.
Although far from the limits of the car, I'm pleased with the first outing.
The AIM dash wasn't displaying RPMs correctly, so really had no idea where to shift. Watching some videos back and looking at speeds, I was defiantly short shifting.
Known problems:
1. Clutch Position Sensor - My solution for the CPPS is throwing a code and will keep the car from starting
2. Throttle Position Sensor - A couple time I got a TPPS error putting the car into Limp Mode
3. Power steering doesn't work - I didn't even try to diagnose this
4. High IAT. I think I finally got all the air out of the wet side of the intercooler, but I need to get a fan or a scoop (or both) on the radiator to bring the water temps down.
5. AIM Dash not displaying RPMs
I'll be back out in December (assuming no rain) and hopefully will have the following done:
1. ZZP remote tune
2. Fix pedal sensors
3. Intercooler radiators fan
4. Fix AIM dash RPM issue
5. Bench test ABS
6. Mount remaining body work
7. Connect sway bars
8. Full alignment and corner balance
I'm using an AIM smarty cam, and do have video of every single time the car start to move, but here is just one video of a few shakedown laps.
I'll re-position the camera next time so its below the rear view mirror.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
- ah.b.normal Goblin Guru
Sooo Cool! BEST DAY EVAH!
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
- ATMironov Well-Known Member
I got the car out for another weekend with some pretty good results.
The car still has a lot of kinks to work out, but it’s feeling really good.
Here is a session where I’m paying less attention to gauges and more to driving. There is lot of pace in the car still. I just need to work up the nerve.
data shows I’m using less than 50% brake pressure.
The car still has a lot of kinks to work out, but it’s feeling really good.
Here is a session where I’m paying less attention to gauges and more to driving. There is lot of pace in the car still. I just need to work up the nerve.
data shows I’m using less than 50% brake pressure.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Smooth is fast and you look like your out for a Sunday drive! With more experience you will be up there with top of the leader board! 
ATMironov
Well-Known Member
- ATMironov Well-Known Member
My fast lap of 1:49 was about the pace of my fastest laps in my Supercharged 85 VW Golf. Muscle memory is a funny thing.Smooth is fast and you look like your out for a Sunday drive! With more experience you will be up there with top of the leader board!
I would be disappointed if I can't get into the mid 1:30s. The car has the capabilities, but do I have the cojones...
I'm very much looking forward to dialing in the suspension and brakes on the car and building my confidence in it.
I didn't have one bit of understeer or oversteer... that should give some sense of how gentile I was being.
All my previous track experience has been front wheel drive, where saving oversteer was based on aggressive throttle inputs. A lot of my concentration driving the Goblin is on having very smooth throttle inputs. As I get more seat time, that should become muscle memory and I can move my focus to other areas to start picking up time.
