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V1 Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)

Ark :D
So, this journey so far has been filled with (mostly self-inflicted) pain ... it's become a bit too much for me to continue, so I've decided to cancel my stage 2 and 3 order and sell the bits of the Goblin and donor I have.

...I kid, I kid.......... but not about the self-inflicted pain part.

Some of you might remember, all the way back in post #46 of this thread, I damaged my donor's theft control module whilst bashing on the steering wheel with a hammer to separate it from the steering shaft:

20190918_001654.jpg

Thinking at the time that the theft control module could not be separated from the ignition without destroying it, I ordered another complete ignition from eBay. I wasn't too happy with the one I received, because it was clearly from an automatic ... it had an extra little bit of electronics screwed onto it, along with a small lever/switch that was not present on my original. I believe they are there to prevent the key from being removed from the ignition unless the automatic trans is in Park (though I may be wrong on that) because, even though I removed the extra bit of electronics, the small lever/switch was still there and if it was bumped to the wrong position or vibrated there on its own during driving, it blocked the key from being removed from the ignition. Not ideal. So I moved it all the way to the release position, and dripped some red Threadlocker in there and that was that. I figured I would just do the key relearn procedure when the time came, and just, whatever.

But it never sat right with me. Electronic modules DO fail in cars, after all, there simply must be a way to get it off without damaging anything. Additionally, I thought, people have snapped keys off in locks/ignitions before, this **** thing MUST be removable. So I went back and revisited it tonight, thinking, if I could figure out how to get that theft control module off of the original ignition, I could replace it with the one from the automatic's ignition, and not have to do the key relearn.

After examining the ignition with a fresh eye, I felt like I wanted to slap the taste out of my own mouth for not noticing this before. There's a small hole in the underside of the ignition. When you turn the key the entire way to the start position, it exposes a little metal tab in that hole. I grabbed an ice pick from the kitchen, stuck it in there, turned the key, and pushed. POP! Out it came.

I didn't bother to get pictures ... I felt quite dumb already, after all. But, here's the hole I am talking about:

20200508_193942.jpg


...One of these days, I'm gonna get better at this car bullshit, I swear it.
 
Karter2026
So, this journey so far has been filled with (mostly self-inflicted) pain ... it's become a bit too much for me to continue, so I've decided to cancel my stage 2 and 3 order and sell the bits of the Goblin and donor I have.

...I kid, I kid.......... but not about the self-inflicted pain part.

Some of you might remember, all the way back in post #46 of this thread, I damaged my donor's theft control module whilst bashing on the steering wheel with a hammer to separate it from the steering shaft:

View attachment 13708

Thinking at the time that the theft control module could not be separated from the ignition without destroying it, I ordered another complete ignition from eBay. I wasn't too happy with the one I received, because it was clearly from an automatic ... it had an extra little bit of electronics screwed onto it, along with a small lever/switch that was not present on my original. I believe they are there to prevent the key from being removed from the ignition unless the automatic trans is in Park (though I may be wrong on that) because, even though I removed the extra bit of electronics, the small lever/switch was still there and if it was bumped to the wrong position or vibrated there on its own during driving, it blocked the key from being removed from the ignition. Not ideal. So I moved it all the way to the release position, and dripped some red Threadlocker in there and that was that. I figured I would just do the key relearn procedure when the time came, and just, whatever.

But it never sat right with me. Electronic modules DO fail in cars, after all, there simply must be a way to get it off without damaging anything. Additionally, I thought, people have snapped keys off in locks/ignitions before, this **** thing MUST be removable. So I went back and revisited it tonight, thinking, if I could figure out how to get that theft control module off of the original ignition, I could replace it with the one from the automatic's ignition, and not have to do the key relearn.

After examining the ignition with a fresh eye, I felt like I wanted to slap the taste out of my own mouth for not noticing this before. There's a small hole in the underside of the ignition. When you turn the key the entire way to the start position, it exposes a little metal tab in that hole. I grabbed an ice pick from the kitchen, stuck it in there, turned the key, and pushed. POP! Out it came.

I didn't bother to get pictures ... I felt quite dumb already, after all. But, here's the hole I am talking about:

View attachment 13710

...One of these days, I'm gonna get better at this car bullshit, I swear it.
Yep they are made to come apart. If you can find the kit you can re key it to match door locks, so you do not have 2 keys if you brake one off or something similar like you said.
 
Zoom Zoom
I just today stuck it on the ground post by the fuse box I had a total of 3 wires on the ground post. Is that the one that has 3 small wires combined into it
 
Ark :D
If it leads back to the fuse box, yes. If it is your engine's ground strap, then no.

Unfortunately I got busy with Mother's Day stuff later tonight, so I haven't had a chance to check the forum, nor where the wire goes. I know it goes into the engine harness. I'll have to use a continuity tester and see if it comes out in the fuse block anywhere.
 
RouteAbel
So, this journey so far has been filled with (mostly self-inflicted) pain ... it's become a bit too much for me to continue, so I've decided to cancel my stage 2 and 3 order and sell the bits of the Goblin and donor I have.

...I kid, I kid.......... but not about the self-inflicted pain part.

You had me going there for a minute.
 
Ark :D
Yeah, not gonna happen. If I was going to bail on this project, it would have been after my first donor's mishap. And even if I didn't then, I certainly would have before I paid for stage 1, since my second donor's guts are probably worth a lot more than I paid for the donor itself ($1700 for mostly good body panels, interior, and a running 2.0L TC with 78k and a G85 trans).
 
Ark :D
I don't know how I managed to do this, but I somehow managed to put both headlight wires in the turn signal group, and both turn signal wires in the headlight group. Guess I will have to fish out the harness and fix that up before I go any further.
 
Ark :D
Man, I am getting irritated. Last page, I mentioned that I needed to order a new mounting adapter for the transmission side. That was two weeks ago, and the company won't even update me on the status.

Has anyone else dealt with Tasca?
 
Vwsaabvt
Man, I am getting irritated. Last page, I mentioned that I needed to order a new mounting adapter for the transmission side. That was two weeks ago, and the company won't even update me on the status.

Has anyone else dealt with Tasca?
I haven't had any problems with them. Though the last few weeks ordering parts anywhere has been a pain in the ass. Nothing is coming on time, estimated ship and delivery dates are worthless on just about anything you order. Also shipping companies have been running full bore on everything like its been black friday/cyber monday for the last 8 weeks.
 
Ark :D
Yeah, I need to remain patient because of everything you wrote. I'll do my best, just sucks because I'm waiting on it.

Maybe going to a salvage yard will be the next option, but I suspect COVID might get in the way of that.
 
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