V2 Blizzard25 Goblin V2 (#19) - 2015 Golf GTI 2.0T DSG

[Blizzard25]

Did the steel oil pan swap tonight, started on the HPFP but got tired. I realize I can do this with the engine out but I want to get it all test fired up first. Probably a waste of time I know, but it'll make me feel better after all the set backs.

 

[MeltedSolid]

Considering what you've been through with this car, getting it started before removing it probably does make sense, just to make sure there's no other little things that'll hold you up later.

 

[aaronc7]

If you wanted to disable the immobilizer on the ecu and tcu-- not a bad idea to get that sorted now while everything is hooked up and easy to flash the ecu, can drive/confirm it, etc.

 

[Blizzard25]

I'm not entirely sure what the point of taking this picture was other than the axles, but got a couple more things done...

ECM/TCM un-volkswagened (immobilizer)
Autotech HPFP installed (you only see the HPFP off in this photo)
Removed axle assembly
Wired up my flex fuel analyzer to a DB25 just for testing, didn't have the motivation to do more than that tonight. I need to decide where to connect it on the bus, I'm not quite sure yet.

I think all that's left is to drop the subframe, disconnect steering rack and downpipe to get the engine out? I might be missing a step there. I need to purchase a hoist still so hopefully by this weekend I'll have this thing finally out of the car. MPI and turbo are gonna go on with the engine outside the car, I think I'm comfortable enough at this point not testing that until it's on the Goblin.

 

[Ross]

Here is a cheaper option than purchasing a hoist that might work for you.

 

[Harvey16V2]

Please be aware there was an update to the Goblin V2 donor parts list dated 10-21-25.
Add the Brake Master Cylinder and the Brake Fluid Reservoir to the list.

 

[Blizzard25]

Reused some blue nitrile/textile braid fuel hose I had from another vehicle project to replace the low pressure HPFP feed. Not sure how i feel about it yet. I've got a PTFE option on standby if i end up not liking it. Not a performance thing, just thinking about some ways to make the engine look better (besides all the clean up i have remaining) since it's going to be exposed. I'm open to feedback.

I also ordered a brake master cylinder and reservoir since mine is caked in rust and the part is only $45, but I'm having another dumb moment. The piston isn't really held in by much in the cylinder, there's some friction and a little ridge but other than that it can just fall right out. Normally it's held in by a ring or clip and they're pretty tough to get out. Is that something normal for the MK7? I couldn't really find anything about specifically the cylinder piston assembly and what it's supposed to be held in by

 

[Ross]

One option to making your V2 Goblin look better... is to put an engine cover on it. Adam shows one in the early V2 draft image.

Lonny also mentioned that the VW engine doesn't look great. Most engines these days just look like plastic on top, pretty ugly. Some new engines come with a plastic engine cover to hide it. Maybe find an engine cover that you like, then mount it on top of your donor engine?

 

[Blizzard25]

One option to making your V2 Goblin look better... is to put an engine cover on it. Adam shows one in the early V2 draft image.

Lonny also mentioned that the VW engine doesn't look great. Most engines these days just look like plastic on top, pretty ugly. Some new engines come with a plastic engine cover to hide it. Maybe find an engine cover that you like, then mount it on top of your donor engine?

The only engine covers that really end up looking good are carbon fiber, and I'm not spending that kind of money for one. There are very few OEM engine covers that I think actually look good, and the MK7 is not one of them (by contrast I do think my OEM Evo X engine cover looks pretty good). Once it actually goes in the Goblin i might change my mind if the final product just looks terrible but I've got some things I want to try first. I am going to either high temp paint or powder coat the valve cover since it will be off for the refresh anyway, so maybe that will help some.

 

[Blizzard25]

Took a little hiatus but finally got back to it tonight after picking up my harbor freight hoist and engine stand. I have only 3 item remaining before the engine can be pulled, but I'm stuck. Both physically and mentally because one of these I've made an attempt for over 2 hours and had no progress.

First one is the shifter cable, probably the easiest one on my list but I just don't really know how it's supposed to come out. I found some stuff that says you're supposed to just pop it out of the ball joint, but it's pretty tight, i feel like i'm gonna break something.

Second one, so this is the part of the harness that runs directly from the fuse box, underneath the intercooler piping and connects directly to stuff like the alternator, a few sensors, and then disappears under the intake manifold. I'm guessing people are just disconnecting at the fuse box? But when i see photos of you guys with your engines out you don't have this wire off so i'm a bit confused.

And the last thing, the one that is making me want to dropkick a tire through the windshield, this stupid piping at the back of the firewall. The connector is simple enough, same clip style as all the other rubber hoses, it's the locations which is killing me. I can't fit a hand or pliers back there and the clips are angled in such a way where all my tools can't open up to get around the clips lol i had the thought to just get everything else disconnected, lift up the engine and pull it out just slightly so i can fit pliers back there better, but I'm not sure if that runs a risk of anything getting ruined. But this is the one where i spent two hours and got super frustrated with it.

Anyway if you guys who pulled the engine already have some pointers on these things let me know.

 

[MeltedSolid]

Took a little hiatus but finally got back to it tonight after picking up my harbor freight hoist and engine stand. I have only 3 item remaining before the engine can be pulled, but I'm stuck. Both physically and mentally because one of these I've made an attempt for over 2 hours and had no progress.

First one is the shifter cable, probably the easiest one on my list but I just don't really know how it's supposed to come out. I found some stuff that says you're supposed to just pop it out of the ball joint, but it's pretty tight, i feel like i'm gonna break something.

I'm not certain because I'm more familiar with the manual, but if the clip on the end is the style I think it is, it's a C-clip that needs a screw driver inserted in it and to be pulled away to the left of the picture.

Second one, so this is the part of the harness that runs directly from the fuse box, underneath the intercooler piping and connects directly to stuff like the alternator, a few sensors, and then disappears under the intake manifold. I'm guessing people are just disconnecting at the fuse box? But when i see photos of you guys with your engines out you don't have this wire off so i'm a bit confused.

View attachment 54457

Unsure... I know the thick cables in the fuse box should just unbolt.

And the last thing, the one that is making me want to dropkick a tire through the windshield, this stupid piping at the back of the firewall. The connector is simple enough, same clip style as all the other rubber hoses, it's the locations which is killing me. I can't fit a hand or pliers back there and the clips are angled in such a way where all my tools can't open up to get around the clips lol i had the thought to just get everything else disconnected, lift up the engine and pull it out just slightly so i can fit pliers back there better, but I'm not sure if that runs a risk of anything getting ruined. But this is the one where i spent two hours and got super frustrated with it.

View attachment 54458

Anyway if you guys who pulled the engine already have some pointers on these things let me know.

VW Has a habit of putting every single connector and hose clamp in the most inconvenient orientation possible... I think I got it with a combination of a pick and a screwdriver. I know pushing the clip from the opposite side can help, then you can shove the pick in there.

 

[Otter]

For the hoses behind, there is a quick connect (loosen the U-shaped wire and 90-degree twist of the fitting) that's hidden behind the firewall insulation(?) which is where I disconnected it. I was also struggling to take the hose clamps off. I did also do it after freeing the engine and moving it forward (didn't find those clips until that point).

 

[Otter]

For the shifter cable, I found it exceedingly easier to just unbolt the base holding the fittings to the engine, then free it from there. My Plan B was going to involve bolt cutters and replacing as needed lol.

Sorry I don't know the technical words, but you got this!

 

[Blizzard25]

Got the dumb heater hoses finally, I did end up pulling the engine a couple inches out and that was enough to get my smallest screwdriver in there. Hard part down. Also disconnected the wiring that was easy enough.

This shifter linkage is thoroughly confusing me though. Like not even a budge, i definitely don't think I'm doing this right.

 

[aaronc7]

Flathead screwdriver, pry that clip up and out.

10mm bolt or whatever, remove.

Looks quite rusty... Use some penetrating fluid.

 

[Blizzard25]

Even after a healthy shower of PB blaster that shifter linkage clip took so much force to come off from all the rust it came off at about 100mph and proceeded to disappear into GTI Narnia somewhere, so i'll need to buy another one, but I'm just happy it's off. Engine and trans out of the car. Next up, the worst part of any car project, cleaning the garage because my wife is not happy about its current state and my tools are everywhere. After that though, pop the accessories off the engine, degrease and wire brush it down a little, then pop the valve/timing covers off for some maintenance.

 

[Blizzard25]

How many pry bars can i stick in the trans before it breaks loose? Idk i ran out of pry bars. Finally broke loose with a couple rubber hammer whacks. Not ideal, got the job done. Sometimes force does beat finesse when it comes to a rusty POS. I have spent about 4 hours with the wire brush so it's looking somewhat better, but holy ****. Engine stand is here and put together but I don't have the right length bolts, fortunately Advanced Auto does so i'll run there a little later.

Got some new parts on order:
Area motorsport AC delete bracket
DQ500/DL501 50228 solenoids (just some experimenting I want to try on the mechs)
Carbon fiber sheets. Gonna try to make my own fuse box and battery cover. I have very, very low hopes for this, we'll see how it goes.

 

[MeltedSolid]

I'm sure there are plenty of rusty mk7's out there, but you've got my personal record for the rustiest mk7 I've seen someone do a lot of work on. Wild that these cars are a decade old now, I'm not used to it. Good luck with the progress!

 

[Blizzard25]

I think i found a winner for the rustiest part of my car. The LPFP was absolutely terrible.

Got the engine on the stand so i can fold up the crane. I've never seen anyone put one on a stand like this by lifting the stand up onto the engine while it's suspended, probably for a good reason, but it made mounting it so much easier than what i was trying to do.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Not certain fom the photos or your description and don't want this to sound condescending, but the black 'head' on the engine stand is designed to come out of the red rotation head piece on its frame to bolt onto the engine first, then slide this back into the stand. Sorry if this is the way you did it, but maybe I missed your meaning stating you had to lift the engine stand to mount it. This seems confusing, as I don't recall ever having to lift an engine stand previously to mount an engine to it.

BTW, like your nice and shiney HF crane and engine stand.