V1 Captain Dave's City Goblin #336 - 07 SS/SC Donor

[Gtstorey]

C1-30 and C2-9 both do not give a reading at all with the key off. I am using the lowest ohm setting on my meter, grounding the black probe to a known solid ground, and using a back probe on the C1 and C2 connectors. My meter does not change from this setting. I did touch the leads together on the meter to make sure it was working and I did get a reading View attachment 53892
C1-30 on the APP has no reading at all either.

C2-8 and C2-9 both have 5V with the key on.

Ross is trying to get you to check continuity between c1-30 and C2-9, not whether either of those is grounded. I would check with the ECM completely disconnected and measure on the pins of the ecm itself. They should connect up inside the ECM, although you are getting outside my knowledge on whether there may be some sort of isolation within the ECM. Probably not since grounding any one will pull all of them down to 0v.

 

[Gtstorey]

Since this issue has been going on for a while I would like to revisit a couple of things that may have been overlooked or forgotten about.

When I did my first start, the throttle was working correctly. At least enough for me to rev the engine a little. Once I got my brakes installed I needed to bleed the clutch and as I’m sure you know the bleeder is a pain to get to. I removed the fuse box to bleed the clutch. After everything was reinstalled the throttle did not work anymore.

I have pulled the fuse box out a couple of other times since to check for damaged pins or broken wires but can’t see anything wrong.

I have also replaced the entire entire gas pedal assembly, ran a new 18/6 wire from the APP to C1, and changed the throttle body.

When I switch the car on the plate inside of the throttle body does react to the car being switched on but does not respond to the pedal at all.

Another thing that is going on with the car but probably not the issue is that when I first start the car, the 4 way flashers and the horn goes off for about 20 seconds. The car starts and runs fine but maybe some sort of security feature that isn’t wired correctly. The main reason I am putting it on this post is the rare chance that it could be killing power to the APP as part of the security. Unfortunately I don’t remember if it was doing this when I started the car the first time when the pedal worked.

About the only thing that might be related to the current issue, is that during the removal of the fuse box (and I assume the PCM) you pulled on an already failing C1-30 pin connection inside of the case that caused it to fail completely.

 

[Captain Dave]

Ross is trying to get you to check continuity between c1-30 and C2-9, not whether either of those is grounded. I would check with the ECM completely disconnected and measure on the pins of the ecm itself. They should connect up inside the ECM, although you are getting outside my knowledge on whether there may be some sort of isolation within the ECM. Probably not since grounding any one will pull all of them down to 0v.

Oh I see. Checking the way you described and the same settings on my meter I get a 0.00 reading. It does jump around just a little but it is probably me moving the leads.

 

[Captain Dave]

About the only thing that might be related to the current issue, is that during the removal of the fuse box (and I assume the PCM) you pulled on an already failing C1-30 pin connection inside of the case that caused it to fail completely.

When you say inside of the case, are you talking about the C1 connector that plugs into the PCM?

 

[Gtstorey]

When you say inside of the case, are you talking about the C1 connector that plugs into the PCM?

The PCM side of the C1 connector. All three of the 5v reference 2 feeds connect to the same transformer inside of the case. The C1-30 connection inside of the PCM is looking like it has failed. It could be at physical connection to the pin or in a trace on the circuit board. There is a chance this could be fixed by wring into one of the other 5v connections outside of the PCM, but the PCM might still think there is a problem. There are more protections built into the accelerator/Tac sensors than normal to prevent a runaway throttle situation.

 

[Captain Dave]

About the only thing that might be related to the current issue, is that during the removal of the fuse box (and I assume the PCM) you pulled on an already failing C1-30 pin connection inside of the case that caused it to fail completely.

You’re a genius my friend!!!!! The wire was seated in the connector but when I looked at the pin side of the connector I could see all the female pins except C1-30. Gave it a small tug and it came right out. Got it fully seated again and all of a sudden I have a working pedal!!!

 

[Captain Dave]

Problem solved!!! Thank you so much to everyone for helping!! Beers on me if we ever meet up.

 

[Ross]

All right Dave!!! The electrical tests led us to the exact problem, the c1-30 pin was not seated correctly. Congrats.

 

[Gtstorey]

We really probably should have had you do a visual inspection of all connectors and pins related to the issue as the very first step. It's just hard to not jump into the full diagnostic mode.

 

[Captain Dave]

We really probably should have had you do a visual inspection of all connectors and pins related to the issue as the very first step. It's just hard to not jump into the full diagnostic mode.

To be honest I probably wouldn’t have caught it with a visual inspection. The wire was still in the connector but pulled slightly back so it wasn’t making contact with the pin. I’m just happy we found the problem.

 

[Captain Dave]

Does anyone have the basic wiring for the DF taillights? Just looking for maybe a picture of how they are wired into the harness. I tried to search but did not really find what I needed.

 

[Robinjo]

I have something but it’s on my work computer. I think it’s also somewhere in my build log.

 

[Waterdriver]

Does anyone have the basic wiring for the DF taillights? Just looking for maybe a picture of how they are wired into the harness. I tried to search but did not really find what I needed.

I have really awesome chicken scratch pinout. Would only be better if it was on a napkin. Lol
Hope it can help.

 

[Markm]

I can’t remember where I found these but this is what I used to help me. I used small wire nuts to make temporary connections to verify the lights operated correctly then soldered the permanent connections. Also added the turn signal connections for the front also

 

[Robinjo]

Scheme here

 

[Captain Dave]

I got the lights all hooked up today. I have taillights, turn signals, backup lights but no brake lights. I have power going to the brake pedal switch and leaving the switch when actuated but no power to the lights. I do have power going to the third brake light when the pedal is pushed. Ran out of time to dig deeper but tomorrow I will check fuses and dig deeper. Anything else I should check?

 

[Markm]

Not to ask a dumb question but you are checking the brake lights with the key on correct? With the key off and brake applied it will only illuminate the third brake light

 

[Captain Dave]

Not to ask a dumb question but you are checking the brake lights with the key on correct? With the key off and brake applied it will only illuminate the third brake light

No such thing. I am checking with the key on.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Actually the way US cars were required to be wired the brake light feed should be virtually from batt to fuse to switch to light to ground; so it works at all times.
BUT It is possible that the brake switch on an 07 must be synched with the BCM(which I hate.) If the switch has been replaced or moved you must reprogram the BCM to sync the potentiometer signal from that switch, Dead Inconvenient! (Hello to a visit to a Mech with a Tech2, goodbye to however much $$ he decides to charge you.)
IF you are lucky you just forgot to plug in the brake switch!??, on the brake pedal cage. There is another similar switch on the clutch pedal cage for neutral safety start and cancel cruise control.

 

[Markm]

If your scan tool can read bcm data you can see brake signal in the data list. If you don’t have a scan tool to read bcm data you can back probe the signal from the brake light switch at the bcm to be sure you have the input to the bcm from the switch. If you have signal to the bcm and no brake applied on the data list you probably have a defective bcm but my guess is you may not have the needed input.