V1 David's Track ,street goblin - in NJ

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Anything in particular to look for on the remote filter mount? Like what type if filter is the best or any check valves required?

Get one that fits a standard filter - 3/4x16 threads is the most common. Check valve is not necessary needed with the accumulator installed on the outlet side of the remote filter mount. The filter back pressure keeps most of the pressure released from the accumulator going into the pressure circuit in the engine and not back into the oil pump. As long as you don't mount the filter upside down there will be little delay in pressure at start up or a momentary drop in pressure during operation.

 

[David]

Did you try the link to DDM in my response? These are still made for the Slingshot.

Just saw your post with all the links. Thank you, looks like DDM one is out of stock. Will try and reash out and see if they are planning to get more.

 

[David]

Get one that fits a standard filter - 3/4x16 threads is the most common. Check valve is not necessary needed with the accumulator installed on the outlet side of the remote filter mount. The filter back pressure keeps most of the pressure released from the accumulator going into the pressure circuit in the engine and not back into the oil pump. As long as you don't mount the filter upside down there will be little delay in pressure at start up or a momentary drop in pressure during operation.

So I ran into your Picasso drawing and ad a question regarding back pressure. If I get the 4 port remote filter mount. Use 3 ports and plug one. One In coming from the engine remote adapter, One out going to the engine remote adapter, One out going to the accumulator and plug one in port.

May question is snice your not using a check valve of some sort for the accumulator. Are you counting on the filter drain back which is like a check valve im assuming? Reason im asking is if I wanted to use the accumulator to prevent dry fire after setting a while. Will the oil go towards the engine or will it go into the filter and then push back into the pan?

Hopefully im explaining myself correctly. Im always over thinking everything.

 

[David]

Did you try the link to DDM in my response? These are still made for the Slingshot.

I called them and also emailed them. They didn't give me a straight response but itsmost likely discontinued.

 

[David]

So I was thinking about this oil filter relocation. Let me know if this is possible. Snice I currently have the OTTP oil cooler adapter. Would I be able to take apart the oil filter cap and gut the inside and just use the cap. Then tap the AN lines going to the cooler and install the oil filter mount?

Something like this, I tried ro use AI to create an image but im not to good at it. Was thinking of still using the 4 port filter mount to be ready for the accumulator down the road. Just not sure how to pipe it up. @Desert Sasqwatch would you think this would work?

 

[David]

So I was thinking about this oil filter relocation. Let me know if this is possible. Snice I currently have the ZZP oil cooler adapter. Would I be able to take apart the oil filter cap and gut the inside and just use the cap. Then tap the AN lines going to the cooler and install the oil filter mount?
View attachment 56284

Something like this, I tried ro use AI to create an image but im not to good at it. Was thinking of still using the 4 port filter mount to be ready for the accumulator down the road. Just not sure how to pipe it up. @Desert Sasqwatch would you think this would work?
View attachment 56285

If anyone has an opinion regarding the remote filter please chime in. Any suggestion helps towards a solution. Thank you

 

[David]

Got the valve cover all done. Just have to get more red loctite to bolt the splash guard.

 

[Ross]

If anyone has an opinion regarding the remote filter please chime in. Any suggestion helps towards a solution. Thank you

I think your idea would work. I worry about cold starts if you leave a gutted oil filter, as it will take some time to fill with oil. DDM has a aftermarket part to bypass the filter.

 

[David]

I think your idea would work. I worry about cold starts if you leave a gutted oil filter, as it will take some time to fill with oil. DDM has a aftermarket part to bypass the filter.

Thats the same adapter that @Desert Sasqwatch recommend but its looks like it's not being made any longer. CRM makes one similar just figured i might be able to bypass the adapter snice I already have OTTP oil cooler adapter.

 

[mike_sno]

If anyone has an opinion regarding the remote filter please chime in. Any suggestion helps towards a solution. Thank you

I'm with Ross. What problem does the relocation solve? Compared to unknown issues which may arise.

 

[David]

I'm with Ross. What problem does the relocation solve? Compared to unknown issues which may arise.

The filter change is a pain to get to with the Dyemond manifold. Also was thinking a bigger filter with more surface area is alot better then the cartridge style.

This is the other option snice the DDM is not available.

CBM MOTORSPORTS ECOTEC STYLE BILLET REMOTE OIL FILTER | COOLER ADAPTER

Custom oil filter, oil cooler adapter for all Ecotec style engines (2.0L, 2.2L, 2.4L, L61, LSJ, LE5, LNF). The adapter bolts in place of the factory oil filter cap and is tapped for two -10AN o-ring fittings. It is proudly made here in the USA machined out of 6061-T6 aircraft grade aluminum...

store.custombuiltmotors.com

 

[Robinjo]

I would bolt the manifold in place and see if it really is that hard. I cannot imagine it being harder than with the LSJ supercharger in the way and even that isn't hard to change the filter on. I just had to get a large ratchet wrench and now it's easy-peasy.

 

[David]

Had some time to get in the garage and put some parts together.

1. I installed the Dyemond intake manifold and there is room to replace the oil filter with a slight angle.

2. Installed the valve cover with the Motion valve cover port. Sits perfectly and will give me enough room to run AN lines to catch can.

3. Reinstalled the oil pan without dropping the subframe. Took me like 20 times to figure out the correct angle. So when it was time to install with the RTV I wouldn't hit nothing. So note for anyone that needs to drop the pan. It could be done without dropping the subframe or jacking the engine.

4. Got the intake and the water to air intercooler piped up and made a bracket to hold it in place.

5. Installed my custom AN line oil dip stick. Landed perfectly to have it bolt to the top alternator bolt.

6. Last thing and the most important. Spent time with my Son playing some chess.

 

[Rttoys]

I played a lot of chess back in my high school and college years.

 

[comegetjoe]

I played a lot of chess back in my high school and college years.

Many nights spent on Yahoo games playing random people on the internet. Now? I forget. Can you store the horses in the castles?

 

[Rttoys]

Many nights spent on Yahoo games playing random people on the internet. Now? I forget. Can you store the horses in the castles?

My chess days were pre internets. I do remember playing a game or two on yahoo games, though.

 

[Robinjo]

3. Reinstalled the oil pan without dropping the subframe. Took me like 20 times to figure out the correct angle. So when it was time to install with the RTV I wouldn't hit nothing. So note for anyone that needs to drop the pan. It could be done without dropping the subframe or jacking the engine.

It can be done with the SF installed, it's just loads easier with the SF out of the way. Dropping the SF takes like 15-30 minutes.

 

[David]

Installed my two custom expansion tank. Now I have to run AN lines for the both sides.

 

[David]

Ok got a little more done today.

1. Finally got the Fumoto extension for the oil drain valve. Which is needed if you want the valve not to hit the oil pan and also not hang below.

2. Figured out how to switch to a 6 rib belt from the original 5 rib. For anyone that wants to switch to the 6 rib belt. Here is what I used to accomplish it.
- Jones racing AL-5105-B-A 2.5 pulley

- M17x24 0.25mm machine shims ( I used five 0.5 mm shims to equal the 0.25mm needed)

- Continental multi V belt 4060330. You need a belt that is 33" long so the GM tensioner is perfectly in the middle of the marking.

 

[David]

Ok so I need some suggestions, I finally got all the coolant lines tied in for the turbo and engine side. The issue im having which I cant slove is the system's are leaking somewhere.

- Engine side 15 PSI drop to 13 PSI in 10 min.

- Turbo side it drop 2 PSI every 3 min or so.

I have sprayed every joint with micro leak detector with is like doing a soap test.

Noting is bubbling at all, so my question is. What should I do now? Hopefully I don't have a head gasket issue on the engine loop. Should I fill system with water and pump system to 15PSI? Maybe ill see water leaking instead of just air.