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V1 David's Track ,street goblin - in NJ

David
So that link doesn't work.

Here is another example. It's a little more complicated since it shows multiple size impellors in the same pump housing. The middle, bold lines go together for the head and power curves. and doesn't extend the power curve outside of the recommended running range.
How to Read a Pump Curve | Intro to Pumps

I took it apart and checked the pump impeller. Its all working correctly, checked the flow with a bucket and its flows. Didn't pop a fuse of nothing while bench testing. Put everything back together and turned it on. Guess what working and not popping fuses. No idea what it was or is but currently working.

Would be nice if there was a clear AN line that way I can see flow.

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Ross
I added a clear line to my intercooler coolant, but you can't see fluid flowing unless there are bubbles. Then I added a visual flow indicator. That works.
 
David
Impeller might have been stuck causing the motor to be locked, if you couldn't tell that it was moving water.

That what im thinking could have been the issue. It was locked and by me opening the housing and turning on and off so many times it spun free.
 
David
Got a little extra time in the garage to install the flood and spot LED light bar I had. Well see how they do in the night. If I ever get a chance to put everything together and take her for a spin lol.
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David
Ok so finally took it out for a spin and it brought a smile to my face but. Theres issues that need attention ASAP as its not fun to drive as is.

1. The throttle is way to sensitive.

2. The throttle pedal is way to low compared to the brake.

3. The clutch is very close to the frame with my big ass feet.

4. At 45MPH its not fun to drive as its not controllable. Its all over the road super unstable.
Previous owner said it was driving straight as an arrow. He used 22PSI all around but im not sure if that starting cold or hot pressure.

5. Have to see how to adjust the group buy shifter.
 
Markm
I added a piece of metal to the throttle pedal to move it out about an inch. I drilled holes and reused the factory pedal pins and bolted the extension with nyloc nuts 1/4” bolts.
 
David
I added a piece of metal to the throttle pedal to move it out about an inch. I drilled holes and reused the factory pedal pins and bolted the extension with nyloc nuts 1/4” bolts.

Was thinking something similar for a temporary fix before next winter project. Was thinking a proper pedal box would be nice. The biggest is the sensitivity the throttle.
 
Rttoys
Lower air pressure to 18 psi and make sure the dampening adjusters on the shocks are set low.

throttle is very light. It takes some getting used to. Some have added or replaced the spring to stiffen it up.

I have size 12w feet, race shoe help a ton.
 
David
Lower air pressure to 18 psi and make sure the dampening adjusters on the shocks are set low.

throttle is very light. It takes some getting used to. Some have added or replaced the spring to stiffen it up.

I have size 12w feet, race shoe help a ton.

- The dampers on the rear are 4 click before they top out on soft. The front was 2 clicks before soft.

- Ill give 18 PSI cold a try, im running r888.

- Im guessing no way to tune the throttle %?

- Im size 13 was using QC sneakers now I Will give my track shoes a try.
 
Rttoys
- The dampers on the rear are 4 click before they top out on soft. The front was 2 clicks before soft.

- Ill give 18 PSI cold a try, im running r888.

- Im guessing no way to tune the throttle %?

- Im size 13 was using QC sneakers now I Will give my track shoes a try.
Suspension sounds good. That’s about where I run mine on the street.

I ran those for years. It can easily handle as low as about 12f/14r.

I don’t think so?. I want to say it calms down a little bit once the ecm forgets it’s a 3000# car, but mostly I had to learn how to drive with my foot on the tower and rotate it to steady the throttle.
 
David
Ok so I posted a video on YouTube showing the amount of play I have on my steering shaft. The play is about ¼" to ½", the knuckles dont have the play. The play seems to be around the last joint on the steering rack. Is that amount of play normal? Everything is all tight

 
Markm
Ok so I posted a video on YouTube showing the amount of play I have on my steering shaft. The play is about ¼" to ½", the knuckles dont have the play. The play seems to be around the last joint on the steering rack. Is that amount of play normal? Everything is all tight

Looks like you’ll need an intermediate steering shaft. You can get them from Rockauto for a decent price.
 
David
Looks like you’ll need an intermediate steering shaft. You can get them from Rockauto for a decent price.
Thank you wasn't sure if the little play was normal. I remember reading couple weeks ago another member had a similar issue but it was related to the knuckles.

Any particular brand better to get?
 
Rttoys
Ya. Steering shaft and even a rack will typically be worn from 100k+ miles of wear. It all factors in. It is all exaggerated with a goblin being so short of wheelbase and light weight.
 
David
Ya. Steering shaft and even a rack will typically be worn from 100k+ miles of wear. It all factors in. It is all exaggerated with a goblin being so short of wheelbase and light weight.

I guess ill start with the steering shaft see if it helps with the play.
 
Markm
Thank you wasn't sure if the little play was normal. I remember reading couple weeks ago another member had a similar issue but it was related to the knuckles.

Any particular brand better to get?
I would think any of the brands would be good for the Goblin
 
Rttoys
I guess ill start with the steering shaft see if it helps with the play.
They are pretty inexpensive, so it’s cheap insurance. Most get replaced when building the goblin due to the old one being locked up, like mine.

if lowering the tire pressure and such doesn’t fix it, I’d look at the alignment to see if anything is off.
 
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