V1 Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I have one in my Jeep, but you're right that I probably need one in my Goblin too!

 

[Rttoys]

It could be for the ac seats.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Now there's a good desert idea!

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Picked up a LED projector light conversion for the dominator headlights I bought a while ago. After seeing that many comments were posted about the dominator lights not being very good - brightness even with halogen bulbs - prompted me to locate these:

They drop right into the dominator buckets and the tabs and holding screw line up perfectly. Plus the halo ring (amber) can be either running lights or turn signal lights. I put 12V into the halogens and LEDs last night, what a difference. I would recommend doing this for anyone running the dominator headlights. Happy with this and it was only $20 to convert.

 

[Robinjo]

Link to the lights?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I got them off ebay, the seller is no longer valid in the system and I can't pull this up - they did come over on the slow boat from China (took 7 weeks to get here). There are others on ebay for the projector motorcycle headlights in the 4.5 inch diameter size, but they are the entire headlight assemblies and not just the light inserts. They do come in the black and chrome but are running $45-$50 for the pair. Sorry I couldn't find this again. But here's a link to the lights available:

Chrome Universal Motorcycle Twin Hi/Lo DRL Headlight Dual Lamp Street Fighter | eBay

One Set Headlight. Low Beam:blue wire. High Beam:red wire. Negative: black / green wire. Wire connection For Harley Softail 1986-2013. For Harley Fat Boy FLSTF 1990-2013. For Harley Cross Bones FXSTSB 2010-2011.

www.ebay.com

 

[mike_sno]

Tim, I think you put foil on your windshield. How did you made it happen that the edges look good? I'm scared that the edges would look fuzzy,but need to do something before the summer.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Mike, my windshield is as-delivered from DF. The edges are a rough finish - at least for now. I do plan to clean them up some for better look.

 

[mike_sno]

Mike, my windshield is as-delivered from DF. The edges are a rough finish - at least for now. I do plan to clean them up some for better look.

Ahh ok, I thought you put some tinting foil on it.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I found the perfect accessory for everyone with a NA motor, one of these will add about 50 HP and 25 MPH to the top end.
Car Fake Dump Electronic Turbo Blow Off Hooter Valve Analog Sound BOV Universal | eBay

 

[Joebob]

I found the perfect accessory for everyone with a NA motor, one of these will add about 50 HP and 25 MPH to the top end.
Car Fake Dump Electronic Turbo Blow Off Hooter Valve Analog Sound BOV Universal | eBay

TWIN CHARGED!!!!!

 

[Rttoys]

Add in a 3/4 race cam and you have a race car.

 

[Ark :D]

I found the perfect accessory for everyone with a NA motor, one of these will add about 50 HP and 25 MPH to the top end.
Car Fake Dump Electronic Turbo Blow Off Hooter Valve Analog Sound BOV Universal | eBay

Shoot, for that price, throw one on each cylinder and add 200 HP + 100 MPH.

 

[RobC76]

Well, I measured 200 times and cut, bent and welded in the front triangulation cross bars. Clears the 7 inch brake booster and master cylinder, the pedal box and brake switch, and the EPS - by 1/16ths of an inch - but it fits exactly as planned. There's enough space to slip a large motorcycle battery into the battery box - was planning to use a Li-ion battery anyway - after dropping it down by 3/4 inch (yes, it clears the steering rack).
View attachment 43787
This addition increases front torsional stiffness by more than 50% and helps keep the footwell more intact in an impact. The 'kink' in the bars was needed for the correct bar angles to clear everything and has a vertical tie bar at the intersection to keep the kink from flexing and less tendency to fold in an impact.
View attachment 43788View attachment 43789
I'm happy with the way this turned out. I had been contemplating this addition for a long time - even thought about making it a bolt-in, but that would be far less rigid and the small bolts would be far more susceptible to failure in an impact. Weld-in was the only solution I could go with to meet my goals.

I'm getting closer to completing the gusset installations, have about 12 more to go, then I can wrap up this side project. The numbers:
Weight added - 41.5 lbs (total to date)
Torsional stiffness - increased by @40%
Weld (critical) integrity - more than 30%
Safety peace of mind - increased by 1000%
(these numbers were checked in a structural software used to build rockets)

I can finally get back to engineering my rear suspension.

RIP Zack

Is this 1 1/4” DOM?
Wall thickness?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I used 1x0.083 inch tube for the upper cross bracing and vertical tie-in bar at the cross over point to the forward 'firewall' frame cross tubes below the cross brace intersection. The welded gussets are also a must to add some additional strength to the X point in the brace - gussets welded both sides.

Also note the diagonal bars from the a-pillar dash bar tie point to the middle frame tube tie point at the 'firewall' tube intersection - these 1.25x0.092 inch added frame tubes are also a recommended pieces that complement the cross bracing for front frame strength and stiffness.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Progress update:
Playing with the dash ideas, decided to fab up a steel dash frame that (mostly) follows the contour of the back edge of the hood. The Cobalt guage panel fits snuggly in its location and plenty of room to add guages, switches, etc. to suit my needs. Trying to decide if a steel or fiberglass panel will bolt to the frame - it will have lots of holes in it (guages) so the weight difference will not be much of a factor.

My second idea for a harness bar to align with my aluminum seats is built up. I wanted something less permanent than a welded in 1.5 inch tube (6.25 lbs) that would align with these seats, but may not if I end up with something more comfortable for my old sqwatch butt. What I came up with is strong (1/4 plate, 1.25x0.125 tube, 1.5 inch 4 bolt-on knuckles), can somewhat adjusted and fits the 'custom' look I like for my build. In an accident they are isolated from the frame perimeter and less likely to be affected in a side impact. And they weight 8.0 lbs for the pair. I'm happy with how they turned out.

I'm also slowly collecting engine performance parts, as I can sneak my car allowance past my financial director (yes, she is one). Forged internals - rods and pistons - to replace the cast parts in the crated LDK/LNF I have. More parts on the way - because I haven't been told no YET.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Progress update:
Playing with the dash ideas, decided to fab up a steel dash frame that (mostly) follows the contour of the back edge of the hood. The Cobalt guage panel fits snuggly in its location and plenty of room to add guages, switches, etc. to suit my needs. Trying to decide if a steel or fiberglass panel will bolt to the frame - it will have lots of holes in it (guages) so the weight difference will not be much of a factor.
View attachment 46640View attachment 46641

My second idea for a harness bar to align with my aluminum seats is built up. I wanted something less permanent than a welded in 1.5 inch tube (6.25 lbs) that would align with these seats, but may not if I end up with something more comfortable for my old sqwatch butt. What I came up with is strong (1/4 plate, 1.25x0.125 tube, 1.5 inch 4 bolt-on knuckles), can somewhat adjusted and fits the 'custom' look I like for my build. In an accident they are isolated from the frame perimeter and less likely to be affected in a side impact. And they weight 8.0 lbs for the pair. I'm happy with how they turned out.
View attachment 46642View attachment 46643View attachment 46644View attachment 46645

I'm also slowly collecting engine performance parts, as I can sneak my car allowance past my financial director (yes, she is one). Forged internals - rods and pistons - to replace the cast parts in the crated LDK/LNF I have. More parts on the way - because I haven't been told no YET.
View attachment 46646View attachment 46647

Wait for the NO. (Then only do one more a week.)

 

[JBINTX]

Tim, did you check for knee clearance on that dash?

For your shoulder harness strap bars clamped behind the seats, do you think you will have enough friction in the clamp to resist the torque created by the offset strap forces trying to rotate it?

 

[Rttoys]

Not impressed

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Yeah, knee clearance is the first thing I checked - I'm good with a little more than 2.5 inches. Pulling my legs back toward me sitting in the seat, I don't contact the dash lower bar. But the Goblin is a snug fit anyway in all dimensions for me.

For the new harness bars, these are made from 1/4 inch steel plate and 0.188 wall X 1.25 inch tube. The knuckle clamps are really tight fitting and will be just touching the back of the seat when installed. What I didn't show is the anti-rotation pin that will be welded into the 1.5 inch horizontal tube that the bottom 1/2 of the knuckle clamp fits over. So the short answer is no.