V1 Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

[mike_sno]

Tim, I see we have both a roof, a similar seat and a similar environment temperature problem. My intercooler heat exchanger is mounted between the seats in the open space above the rear wall. I noticed that when I drive and the fans are off, they are spinning in a way as the air is pushing from the back to the front of the car. Don't ask me why. I also noticed since I swapped the engine that it is noticeable hotter in the car. How are you planning to deal with that?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Mike, the reason for the air moving forward from the hot engine bay is the cockpit area is lower air pressure (stagnant air actually) and the air wrapping around the windshield, the seats - with you in them - and a roof panel in some cases when installed will pull the air forward. A simple fix is to add a barrier, such as the DF engine cover or a plexiglass or mesh wind screen (like those used in UTVs) behind the seats. This helps prevent the air from coming forward. Another way is to direct air into the cockpit area with vents - especially effective when directed into the footwell area. This helps, but a lot of air would have to flow into the cockpit to prevent the air moving forward from the engine bay. Try some things to see what works - maybe tape an old bed sheet to the rollbar behind the seats and see what the difference is to determine if the options above are the right thing to purchase or fabricate.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Mike, the reason for the air moving forward from the hot engine bay is the cockpit area is lower air pressure (stagnant air actually) and the air wrapping around the windshield, the seats - with you in them - and a roof panel in some cases when installed will pull the air forward. A simple fix is to add a barrier, such as the DF engine cover or a plexiglass or mesh wind screen (like those used in UTVs) behind the seats. This helps prevent the air from coming forward. Another way is to direct air into the cockpit area with vents - especially effective when directed into the footwell area. This helps, but a lot of air would have to flow into the cockpit to prevent the air moving forward from the engine bay. Try some things to see what works - maybe tape an old bed sheet to the rollbar behind the seats and see what the difference is to determine if the options above are the right thing to purchase or fabricate.

Mesh for a air deflector can be reclaimed from dead trampolines on the cheap! Look for one that the wind tore up, sun baked and weathered is usually a poor donor.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Update on the dash assembly: got the frame all measured and fabbed up - tweaked to fit correctly. The frame contour follows the underside rear edge of the hood (as close as my tooling will allow for bending the 3/4 inch tube) to try to minimize the gap. It incorporates a center 'waterfall" frame section that attaches to the floor crossbar next to the center tunnel. (My center tunnel is 3 piece - my mod - and can still be removed with the dash frame installed). I added a curve to the top of the 'waterfall' tubes to add a more esthetic look:

I then fabbed up the dash panels from 16 gauge (0.060 inch) steel - won out over fiberglass - and easier for me to work with. I welded threaded plates to the dash frame to bolt the dash panels on and to allow removal to work on guages and wiring:

I added a small 'cubby' at the bottom of the 'waterfall' panel, no room for a glovebox in the dash. The ignition switch will be mounted here for my convenience:

Next up is to cut holes for the steering column and dash gauges. The odd size/shape of the Cobalt gauge panel will be a challenge - measure 200 times, cut once.

BTW, the stacked washers in the dash screws are there because I need to shorten the screws to 3/8 inch to fit without hitting the frame bars.

 

[Rttoys]

You really need a winch on that jeep, because jeep.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Update on the dash assembly: got the frame all measured and fabbed up - tweaked to fit correctly. The frame contour follows the underside rear edge of the hood (as close as my tooling will allow for bending the 3/4 inch tube) to try to minimize the gap. It incorporates a center 'waterfall" frame section that attaches to the floor crossbar next to the center tunnel. (My center tunnel is 3 piece - my mod - and can still be removed with the dash frame installed). I added a curve to the top of the 'waterfall' tubes to add a more esthetic look:
View attachment 46895View attachment 46896

I then fabbed up the dash panels from 16 gauge (0.060 inch) steel - won out over fiberglass - and easier for me to work with. I welded threaded plates to the dash frame to bolt the dash panels on and to allow removal to work on guages and wiring:
View attachment 46897View attachment 46898

I added a small 'cubby' at the bottom of the 'waterfall' panel, no room for a glovebox in the dash. The ignition switch will be mounted here for my convenience:
View attachment 46899

Next up is to cut holes for the steering column and dash gauges. The odd size/shape of the Cobalt gauge panel will be a challenge - measure 200 times, cut once.

BTW, the stacked washers in the dash screws are there because I need to shorten the screws to 3/8 inch to fit without hitting the frame bars.

I hope the floor in that cubby hole isn't level, it should have a drain at the back(facing front) and a floor angled down (back to front), so the contents don't slide rearward every time you hit the gas! Because you will be stomping that go pedal every chance you get.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The 'cubby' is sloped forward, does have a couple drain holes at the low (forward) point, and will be lined with thin carpet material to keep items from rattling around. I still have to figure out the ignition switch configuration and mount that will reside above the 'cubby'. It will also need a cover too - so still not completely done with the dash assembly. More to come on this.

BTW, does anyone have experience with the VATs coil on the ignition switch mounted behind a steel dash panel? Will it still work properly or does the steel panel need to be opened up to expose the coil to the key? Thanks.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Big update:
The dash is finished to the point of being ready to weld it in, but I'm going to hold off until I have my hood mods completed. Did get the ignition switch mounted up into the small panel above the 'cubby'.

Regarding the hood mods, I was planning to use the donor hood hinges in a flip forward configuration.

But they turned out to not fit in the location I need them to - just too tall, long and wide. So I fabbed up my own hinges from 1/4 inch aluminum bar, with bronze bushings and shoulder bolts.

These fit in the location I want them to and will match up with the flip up and forward function I want with the hood. More to come on this.

My wing standoffs I had originally fabbed up from sheet metal will not work for the active braking I'm planning to incorporate. So I fabbed up new standoffs from 1/4 inch aluminum bar with bronze bushings and shoulder bolts.

But the original frame mounts were mounted too close together, so I had to redo these too. More to come on the wing mounting and function.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Update:
Been working on the hood, got it cut in two with a separate nose that is fixed in place and bolts on:

I previously posted photos of the new fabricated hood hinges, but now they are installed on fabricated frame mounts:

I also fabbed up hood mounts for the hinges (holding everything together with clecos during test fitting):

And and my hinged hood functions as expected:

Need to finish up hinge stops to limit forward motion so it doesn't contact the nose when opened. More to come on this.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Update 2:
You see it here first - I've got my wing geometry finalized and finished up getting it functional, it is also an aerobrake. The wing is hinged and uses a pair of linear actuators to raise the wing from a nominal 8 degrees up to 65 degrees to create an increase in drag (aerodynamic braking) force.

The linear actuators are synchronized to extend and retract in unison, no twisting or binding. The wing extend and retract motion is less than 1.5 seconds, so it has little delay time to add braking function.

The calculated aerodynamic force at 75 MPH is about 125 ft.lbs. and being on the roof pushes the car down and toward the rear to counteract nose dive during braking.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Spent the long weekend in Michigan - my parents celebrated their 65th wedding anniversary. Had great time.

Sunset over Lake Michigan.

 

[mike_sno]

Update 2:
You see it here first - I've got my wing geometry finalized and finished up getting it functional, it is also an aerobrake. The wing is hinged and uses a pair of linear actuators to raise the wing from a nominal 8 degrees up to 65 degrees to create an increase in drag (aerodynamic braking) force.
View attachment 47827View attachment 47828
The linear actuators are synchronized to extend and retract in unison, no twisting or binding. The wing extend and retract motion is less than 1.5 seconds, so it has little delay time to add braking function.
View attachment 47829
The calculated aerodynamic force at 70 MPH is about 125 ft.lbs. and being on the roof pushes the car down and toward the rear to counteract nose dive during braking.

That is so cool I want that too! Breaking perfomance of the Goblin is insane and with this even better!

PS:That looks like Florida not lake Michigan.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Weko Beach in Bridgman Michigan.

 

[Markm]

Weko Beach in Bridgman Michigan.

I’m curious, does the water get warm up there? I’ve never been to Michigan. I always figured swimming there would be about equivalent to the North Sea.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I’m curious, does the water get warm up there? I’ve never been to Michigan. I always figured swimming there would be about equivalent to the North Sea.

It does during the summer, especially on the Michigan side.

 

[Mahkoi]

Lake Michigan isn't bad. Lake Superior is a touch colder.....

 

[mike_sno]

View attachment 47829
The calculated aerodynamic force at 75 MPH is about 125 ft.lbs. and being on the roof pushes the car down and toward the rear to counteract nose dive during braking.

I was just exercising google. I want to know how much down force my front wing produces at 50mph. Do you have an equation for that?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Mike, note the aerodynamic force I cited is the aerobraking force for my wing when it is deployed forward - this is drag force - and is not the aerodynamic downforce for my meager wing. But the down force can be calculated. To do this I would need to know the design (NACA profile), cord (width), length, mounting angle and airspeed to get in the ballpark.

My 48 inch wing operating in clean air across it's full span is about 45 ft.lbs. of downforce at 60ish MPH - best conditions. This does not take into consideration the Gurney flap on the rear edge of the wing which can add roughly 15% to this number (to 50 ft.lbs.). As you can see it's function as an aerobrake far exceeds its benefit to generate downforce - but a Goblin has to have a wing! Even Russell has one!

 

[Rttoys]

I don’t have wings. It’s winglets on the mirrors and a decorative spoiler thing in the back, but no wings.

 

[mike_sno]

Update 2:
You see it here first - I've got my wing geometry finalized and finished up getting it functional, it is also an aerobrake. The wing is hinged and uses a pair of linear actuators to raise the wing from a nominal 8 degrees up to 65 degrees to create an increase in drag (aerodynamic braking) force.
View attachment 47827View attachment 47828
The linear actuators are synchronized to extend and retract in unison, no twisting or binding. The wing extend and retract motion is less than 1.5 seconds, so it has little delay time to add braking function.
View attachment 47829
The calculated aerodynamic force at 75 MPH is about 125 ft.lbs. and being on the roof pushes the car down and toward the rear to counteract nose dive during braking.

Tim, did you buy the linear actuators with a position feedback? I am pondering the idea of making my front and rear wing adjustable while driving.