Fenix's Cobalt SS LSJ (Non goblin)

[Robinjo]

Grab a vacuum or pressure bleeder. Even something like this, I use for oil changes

A pressure bleeder will help you out greatly here.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

I have a vacuum bleeder. After resting for a day or so to let my morale rise again I went out and bled each corner by rear right, front left, rear left, front right. Initial testing, the brake pedal feels better but I am not confident about it. I'll have to test it some more later. The replacement camshaft position sensor arrived and the replacement fuel pump relay arrived today. Confirmed that the relay works and the pump primes now. I'll get to work replacing the sensor today or tomorrow. Maybe I broke it when using the lift point near it, or the grounded O2 sensor broke it? At least I hope its the sensor, will find out soon. The transmission is still loud, like a really loud grinding bearing when put under load, which goes away when the clutch pedal is pressed. Not really happy about that, but if it lasts long enough to pay off the money I put into it then I guess I can break even emotionally over the ordeal. Trying to look on the positive for a moment, not everyone can say they went and replaced a transmission on their own!

Edit: On another note, is there some kind of o-rings or something that makes it more clear that there are no more bubbles flowing out of a brake bleeder screw? The rear right has some sort of rubber and it was really nice pulling a vacuum with that. All the others would leak air through the screws, making it hard to tell if its done or not.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Replaced the camshaft position sensor today. It wont come out on its own due to a coolant pipe connection (dont know the name of that part where a bunch of coolant hoses connects to) in the way and not just the hose. I unbolted two bolts on the sensor housing and carefully pulled it out slowly, making sure to not move the 8 sided lobe and making note of the marks orientation. I'd say its a little luck that the mark was facing directly up towards where the top bolt would be. Replaced the sensor and carefully slid the housing back on. The connector is different for this one in shape and so as a test I pushed its wires into the old connector. I cleared the codes and turned over the engine and it gave little to no fuss and runs now.

Now onto the clutch, its all over the place. 100% sure there are still more bubbles inside somewhere and so at some point today or tomorrow I'll have a friend over to help me two person bleed it since bench bleeding is only getting me so far. I noticed that there is jittering under low speed high torque loads which I'd assume is the clutch? I dunno. The sound coming from the transmission is awful under any load, sounds like sandpaper being scrapped against metal. That being said, it goes into every gear. The grinding sounds and acts like this actually,

Input shaft bearing perhaps needs replaced on this one. I have a few options if this is true. I could fix the original transmission or sell it or I could save up for a F40 swap or F23 swap.

 

[Gtstorey]

Not sure if you are using the phrase “bench bleeding” correctly.

I’ve never had as much luck with vacuum bleeding as pressure bleading. It can be hard to pull the air downward. But maybe if you have a vac that can move a lot of volume it works better. All I’ve ever had for vacuum bleeding was a Might Vac hand pump.

Sometimes old fashioned two person bleeding can help stubborn systems. I’ve also used a syringe to push fluid from the caliper end on motorcycles that wouldn’t bleed any other way. But I’ve never tried it on a clutch.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

guess ill provide an update. the code for the camshaft position sensor came back. the grinding noise the transmission makes is just awful. the brakes work fine now and so does the clutch pedal. no plans on working on it this week.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

does anyone have recommendations for the simplest way to get piston 4 TDC on compression stroke?

 

[Gtstorey]

Are you asking how to turn the engine over or how to verify that you are at the correct location. And if the latter, how exact are you wanting it to be at TDC?

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Are you asking how to turn the engine over or how to verify that you are at the correct location. And if the latter, how exact are you wanting it to be at TDC?

Both and exact enough to make the camshaft sensor be happy again after replacing it. Although... what if the timing jumped a tooth? Suppose at that point there are a few videos I could find on that subject.

 

[Gtstorey]

After replacing the sensor or replacing the cam? Typically there are alignment marks on everything for setting it back to where it needs to be.

It sounds like you need an oem service manual.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

If the #4 piston is at the top stroke on compression with all valves closed, the #1 piston will be completing its exhaust top of stroke, so the exhaust valves will be open (not completely) and intake valves closed.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Iv been using charm.li as my manual https://charm.li/Chevrolet/2005/Cobalt L4-2.0L SC VIN P/

Back from a long break. Today I took the valve cover off and got a new gasket. The old one was leaking. Tomorrow I'll see about getting the timing lined up. For some reason I feel like the timing jumped a tooth. I'm not sure if there is a learning procedure for the camshaft position sensor. The manual only says to line everything up and nothing else. Either way I'll be doing more research on these issues. I have an emission test coming up so I have to get all the CELs fixed. (or trying to clear all the codes right before getting the test done and seeing if that works). One thing I found interesting is seeing SAAB on the valve cover

. Its something I'd definitely leave chrome if I were to ever paint this. I took a short video of the cams and junk.

 

[Rauq]

From ZZP's notes on cam installs:

When timing Ecotec cams:
Cylinder 1 and 4 should both be at TDC when the notch in the hex lines up with the line on the sensor housing. However, you need to make sure cylinder 1 has just completed the exhaust stroke and cylinder 4 has just completed the compression stroke. At that point, cylinder 1 exhaust valves have just closed and cylinder 1 intake valves are starting to open. If #4 exhaust valves have just closed, then you need to aim the notch 180 degrees off from the line in the housing.

Not sure if that's helpful or addresses what you're seeing or not.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

I got everything lined up and replaced the sensor, put everything back together. Cleared the codes. After starting the engine and letting it run the codes came right back and now there is a P0480 code. One of the radiator fans kicks on right away at full force and doesnt turn off until 5 or so seconds after the car shuts off. So not only did I not fix anything I also managed to break something else. I am so done right now. I am heavily considering selling the car at a huge loss because I cant deal with this any longer. I can imagine if I took it to a shop I would be out another 4 grand at least. With the money iv put into this I could of searched and found a prestine cobalt instead of this junk.

 

[Rttoys]

P0480 is a cooling fan malfunction, so it will kick them on high for protection. On trucks it does that with a t-stat or cooling temp sensor malfunction. Still gotta figure out the cam code thing though.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

I missed a connector and things went back to normal. The camshaft code is still coming up though. So... timing jumped a tooth, connector needs replaced, camshaft sensor housing needs replaced, or replace the wiring end to end? Bad fuse block? Fuse to the sensor blown? does it need to be calibrated with a level 2 device? I dont know. Im out of ideas. I got everything back together and it runs. I could take it to a shop.

 

[Gtstorey]

Have you tried reading the oem diagnostic for the code?

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Have you tried reading the oem diagnostic for the code?

Good idea, I went and found it here P0341 and here P0340 charm.li is so nice to have. I'll read up on it tonight and see if I can do anything tomorrow.

 

[jirwin]

Hey, dumb question, but does this thing have aftermarket cams? I remember coming across people on CSS complaining that the reluctor on the back of the cam can sometimes come loose, if aftermarket.

 

[Rauq]

That's not the colored link, is it? Because at this point in your video (1:06) you're looking at the exhaust indicator on the intake cam sprocket. It'll take a lot of revolutions to get the cam sprocket indicators lined back up with the chain to really be able to tell, maybe pull the spark plugs so you can spin the motor over from the crank pulley bolt with a drill. That's if you've got any inclination to chase a cam timing issue before an electrical issue.

If it's not this, then my guess is it's an electrical issue.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

That's not the colored link, is it? Because at this point in your video (1:06) you're looking at the exhaust indicator on the intake cam sprocket. It'll take a lot of revolutions to get the cam sprocket indicators lined back up with the chain to really be able to tell, maybe pull the spark plugs so you can spin the motor over from the crank pulley bolt with a drill. That's if you've got any inclination to chase a cam timing issue before an electrical issue.
View attachment 54960

If it's not this, then my guess is it's an electrical issue.

Sorry I forgot to show the pictures I took of it lined up here:

looks like the dark link needs to be over on the exh side? the lobes in the video look to be at the same spot i remember when installing the sensor. one thing to note is that i couldnt find any other differently colored links just the dark one.

another thing to remember is that this wasnt an issue until a replaced the transmission and shorted the o2 sensor
also the part of the diag procedure requires a level 2 reader which i dont have