V1 JS City Goblin - 2010 LS

[syntroniks]

0x7E8: P0641 - Sensor Reference Voltage A Circuit/Open (Pending, Current)

That would be the first place I would look, whatever circuit that ends up being. Sometimes ECUs will run dedicated grounds to sensitive sensors like MAP & EGO. If those grounds fail, the sensors can't put out anything reasonable.

 

[redline]

I had that once on my Saturn (same engine /ecu) it ended up being that my cam sensor was one flat off.

 

[JSATX]

Has anyone come up with a good steering stop? Especially at low speeds I seem to rub the tires against the A arms even while being careful to watch them.

 

[JSATX]

So I’ve decided to completely redo my nosecone to better accommodate a dash and gauge cluster reorganization. Currently the dash is attached to the nosecone and it must all be removed together which is a big pain. I still like the way it looks but there was a lot of beginner mistakes made and I think I can do it better. So my main question is if anyone has made any progress on a windshield. I do not want a flat framed windshield like dune buggies use. I want to make it as close as possible to the atom windshield.

I intend to weld some small brackets for body Dzus fasteners along the side rail where a small integrated dash and windshield frame will go. Then the nosecone can be free to swing up and forward similar to a Dodge Viper.

 

[Dre]

Has anyone come up with a good steering stop? Especially at low speeds I seem to rub the tires against the A arms even while being careful to watch them.

I was thinking of possibly using shaft collars on the rack and pinion. If i go that route, I'll let you know

 

[DCMoney]

I was thinking of possibly using shaft collars on the rack and pinion. If i go that route, I'll let you know

Thats a good idea. Some Aftermarket R&Ps for RZR's do something similar.

 

[Dre]

Im going to get some plastic ones and see how that goes

 

[Ross]

So I’ve decided to completely redo my nosecone to better accommodate a dash and gauge cluster reorganization. Currently the dash is attached to the nosecone and it must all be removed together which is a big pain. I still like the way it looks but there was a lot of beginner mistakes made and I think I can do it better. So my main question is if anyone has made any progress on a windshield. I do not want a flat framed windshield like dune buggies use. I want to make it as close as possible to the atom windshield. View attachment 6864

I intend to weld some small brackets for body Dzus fasteners along the side rail where a small integrated dash and windshield frame will go. Then the nosecone can be free to swing up and forward similar to a Dodge Viper.

I really like that Atom windscreen, and would be interested in a swing up front hood too. I read that the Atom 3 uses a polycarbonate (Lexan) front windshield, which is what my radio control car uses for a body. It is tough plastic, but will scratch over time. According to this video, it can also be bent cold, which would probably be the best way to keep it optically clear, as heat bending introduces optical imperfections.

Probably need to roll the Lexan into a traffic cone shape, and let it spring back into the windshield shape. Maybe running it through tapered rollers would work better. The Ariel windscreen is removable, with its built in wiper, window wash, and controls. I'm surprised they run a wiper on Lexan, but it might be a legal requirement in some areas. Fresh Rain-X coating works as well as a wiper, without scratching the Lexan. The integrated wiper/dash area could be a fiberglass or carbon fiber molded part. I am about 6 months away from needing this part, but would be interesting in helping develop a prototype or product.

 

[JSATX]

Pulled out of winter hibernation! Got in a nice 60 miles or so today.

 

[JSATX]

Well the car continues to evolve. The last year or so has seen some modifications that were just haphazardly placed for testing. Decided to go ahead and remove the seats, open the center tunnel and just do some spring cleaning. I’m removing a bunch of stuff I initially kept. When first building it I was very hesitant to remove circuits, thinking someday I’d use them in a more complete “final build” but now that I’ve put some miles on it I have a better understanding of what I need vs don’t.

So I completely removed the power steering motor and the power wires for it. Just for grins I powered it up for one last test drive and I just don’t like it at all. At a compete standstill I can steer with two fingers so I really don’t understand why anyone keeps it. It does seem to reduce the feedback when going over small bumps but that’s not something I want either. Also removed the ambient light wires and sensors. I like my led lights on all the time. Helps people see me and they look pretty cool. So with that removed and the headlight switch on “auto” they stay on all the time. Can still be turned off at the switch if you wanted to.

I have this wire tucked under my instrument cluster. I want to say it went to the fog lamp switch but I can’t find it anywhere. Wire colors are black and brown, heavier gauge than usual, anyone know?

 

[Gsd autos mn]

Black and brown appear to be on this diagram from Haynes.

 

[JSATX]

Thanks for that. I’m 99% sure it’s a switch, I thought it was fog lamp switch but according to that it’s not. Hmmm I just don’t remember

 

[Gsd autos mn]

Im just learning myself I often go back to this manual after I see questions so far the $9 book seems to have a lot of good diagrams, every time a brown wire was used it was exterior lamps front and rear, im sure someone will chime in.

You could test circuit with a multi meter gray wires were interior/ brown exterior if you turn the key the plug should see voltage....if its still run to fuse box.

I will label each connection with a number when I take it apart, and snap a photo go back to the number and photo as a refreshment.

 

[JSATX]

After removing the power steering there’s a big ugly hole and leaked oil onto my floorboard. Made a cap to take its place it works perfectly.

 

[IDRVSLO]

After removing the power steering there’s a big ugly hole and leaked oil onto my floorboard. Made a cap to take its place it works perfectly. View attachment 7415View attachment 7416

Very interested in hearing how this turns out. Have you driven it without the PS yet?

 

[JSATX]

Very interested in hearing how this turns out. Have you driven it without the PS yet?

Oh yeah I have driven this whole time with it unplugged. There’s no discernible difference between it being unplugged and physically removed.

 

[IDRVSLO]

Oh yeah I have driven this whole time with it unplugged. There’s no discernible difference between it being unplugged and physically removed.

Good to know, I will try it out.

 

[JSATX]

Good to know, I will try it out.

Let me know what you think. Takes two seconds to unplug. If you want a cap I’ll send you one

 

[JSATX]

Has anyone removed or considered removing the brake booster? I’m locking up my front tires far more frequently than I’d like to admit. And while the little puff of smoke just before the corner makes me feel like a (wannabe) F1 driver I’m interested in reducing that frequency.

But honestly That’s only half the reason, the other half is I’m well underway with nosecone 2.0 and the booster sticks up and interferes with my current design....I feel like I could machine a small adapter which basically moves the brake master cylinder to the brake pedal box. However I don’t have much experience with brake systems and that makes me obviously extremely hesitant to start modifying a crucial safety item. Of course bikes and quads don’t have boosters so I don’t feel like it would be that big of a deal. Thoughts?

 

[Waterdriver]

Tilton, Wilwood master cylinder and pedal.
This Wilwood with the balance bar would be nice to use. Adding brake proportioning.