V1 Kenny and Ashleys extended city goblin- 08 SS TC DONOR #218

[Ark :D]

Sure does. I just tried that and it runs!! Turned it off immediately because we have no coolant yet but I assume once we to our intake and turbo piping she will run like a dream.

Correct. My donor's intercooler loop was damaged so it would not stay running without unplugging the MAF sensor.

 

[Kenny123]

Correct. My donor's intercooler loop was damaged so it would not stay running without unplugging the MAF sensor.

Awesome man. I really can't thank you enough for all the help! Everyone has been so great here. Its hard being a newbie and asking for help but here we are haha

 

[Ark :D]

Awesome man. I really can't thank you enough for all the help! Everyone has been so great here. Its hard being a newbie and asking for help but here we are haha

Dude......... have you seen my build thread?

Think nothing of it. We've all been where you're at and know what it's like, not knowing what you're doing. In six months or a year or whatever the case may be, when your car is registered and you're putting miles on it, you'll definitely hop into new build threads and help where you can with what you've learned, as well.

 

[Kenny123]

So update. We got the engine running coolant is in and no leaks. New oil, no leaks! Idle is wicked high, around 2200 RPM How ever i havent connected any vacuum lines yet so I assume that's a given. Going to tackle the vacuum lines this week. Also found turbo housing and exhaust manifold smoking like a SOB but I'm going to chalk that up to the turbo being new and having oil on it from storage as well as new high temp paint on the manifold. We will see. Other wise everything is going smoothly. Only other issue is the sub frame cradle bolts were cut to extract them. Ordered new engine cradle bolts and the thread part isn't long enough so i can't mount my sub frame until i find these dang bolts. Thanks to all the people who have coaxed me through this process.

 

[Ark :D]

Yours if you want them.

 

[Kenny123]

Oh my God man!!! Really??!?! Please!! I'll Venmo ya what ever!!

 

[ctuinstra]

So update. We got the engine running coolant is in and no leaks. New oil, no leaks! Idle is wicked high, around 2200 RPM How ever i havent connected any vacuum lines yet so I assume that's a given. Going to tackle the vacuum lines this week.

Just don't get tempted to take a rip up and down the street until you plug up those vacuum leaks. And yes, those vacuum leaks will cause a really high idle among other issues.

 

[Kenny123]

You know I've n

Just don't get tempted to take a rip up and down the street until you plug up those vacuum leaks. And yes, those vacuum leaks will cause a really high idle among other issues.

You know, I've never known that vacuum lines were that imperative until this build.

 

[pisco]

Correct. My donor's intercooler loop was damaged so it would not stay running without unplugging the MAF sensor.

Mine too

 

[ctuinstra]

You know I've n

You know, I've never known that vacuum lines were that imperative until this build.

The lean condition caused by the leaks could really damage the engine under load.

 

[Kenny123]

The lean condition caused by the leaks could really damage the engine under load.

Thats really great to know. I truly would have never guessed that. I am going to just spend an afternoon finding all vacuum connections and knock em out. Hopefully tame that high idle.

 

[Ross]

A smoke machine really helps find vacuum leaks, and exhaust leaks too (they cause problems with the O2 sensor that adjusts your fuel mixture).

 

[Kenny123]

Another question! The front end is now the rear end so the kit came with that tubular brace mount that holds the rear wheels straight and prevents rear steer, i got that. Now the ends that thread into that brace...? Where are those and were they supposed to come with the kit? I have the tube brace, and tie rod ends but no rods... also when I turned the car on I noticed right below my boost sensor there is a hole that a brass barb fitting threads into. TONS of air blow out of it when its running. Question is am I supposed to connect that line to the valve cover port as part of the PCV system?

 

[Rttoys]

There should be inner tie rods (supplied by DF) that screw into that brace/bracket. You use the outer tie rod ends from your cobalt on the rear. DF should have supplied outer tie rod ends that go on the steering rack at the front.

 

[Rttoys]

.

 

[Kenny123]

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Thank you. Ya I will need to look harder i suppose. Maybe I just missed them. Much appreciated

 

[Kenny123]

So I think I've got the vacuum line from where to where it needs to be. Nice thing is the idle went from 2k to Bout 750 RPM from that. Have a pretty distinct ticking from the high pressure fuel pump too so gonna look into that a bit.

 

[Ark :D]

As I understand it, the Turbo SS's all have an engine tick.

 

[JBINTX]

So I think I've got the vacuum line from where to where it needs to be. Nice thing is the idle went from 2k to Bout 750 RPM from that. Have a pretty distinct ticking from the high pressure fuel pump too so gonna look into that a bit.

The ticking sound from the HP fuel pump is normal

 

[JBINTX]

So I think I've got the vacuum line from where to where it needs to be. Nice thing is the idle went from 2k to Bout 750 RPM from that. Have a pretty distinct ticking from the high pressure fuel pump too so gonna look into that a bit.

Do your two pictures show the same vac line?

The rear of the valve cover goes to the port closest to the air intake filter.
The vac line close to the MAP sensor near the intake manifold goes to the block junction on top of the intake manifold.