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V1 Kingchuck's (and friends) Street Goblin #435 - 06 LT Manual (Aftermarket Supercharger)
Goblinfanclub1234
Goblin Guru
- Goblinfanclub1234 Goblin Guru
also are you using a flare nut wrench? it is a huge help.
I would double check all of the 7mm bolts holding the fuse box plugs in make sure they are all tight as well
I would double check all of the 7mm bolts holding the fuse box plugs in make sure they are all tight as well
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
- KingChuck24 Well-Known Member
Ya nothing works, I will check all the connections tomorrow.
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
I think this is one of the post that identifies the BCM fuse causing a lot of these problems.
dfkitcar.com
Intermittent No Power/Start
I had many of the same codes when I went into limp mode while on a drive. Such things as Transmission faults, cruise control errors, and 3rd brake light. In the end it was the CANBUS in the lower pug of the BCM. It somehow got unseated on a harsh road dip. See if this helps sort out the...
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
- KingChuck24 Well-Known Member
Today went alright with some good and some bad.
First off we were able to reseat the rear flare-nuts and they seem to be leaking considerably less but still a little. This lead us to re-bleed all of the calipers and the brakes now feel pretty firm and good.
We were also able to figure out how the heat exchanger pump connected and connected it with no issue and all that works and it circulates coolant well.
After that, we decided it would be a good idea to test drive it again with better brakes and hopefully, it wouldn't pull timing anymore because the heat exchanger would be cooling off the incoming air through the supercharger. We went around the neighborhood for a little while and it seemed maybe a little better with the timing but the brakes were working very well so we brought it to the access road that is about 1/4 mile long. We did some pulls through there but even at full throttle, the car seemed to be limping a little bit. We did one final pull, this one to around 55 mph and unfortunately the accessory belt came into contact with the passenger side coolant return hose and cut through it causing a major leak. This will need replacing if we cant somehow cut out the damaged parts and put a different coolant line on it.
In terms of the car being slow, I cannot say for certain it is but I am judging it off of other peoples 0-60 times and from that I would say the car might be in the 5s to 6s (calculating it from the videos we took of the dash). It is not throwing any codes besides the normal evap codes and the previous owner tuned those out of the dash because he also cut out the evap sensor before we even got to it. It is possible we have a boost leak as there is a boost line T that would have gone to the boost gauge but we never reconnected that and we taped off that side of the T so it could be leaking from there. Other than that what are some common reasons for the car limping or not being at full power?
First off we were able to reseat the rear flare-nuts and they seem to be leaking considerably less but still a little. This lead us to re-bleed all of the calipers and the brakes now feel pretty firm and good.
We were also able to figure out how the heat exchanger pump connected and connected it with no issue and all that works and it circulates coolant well.
After that, we decided it would be a good idea to test drive it again with better brakes and hopefully, it wouldn't pull timing anymore because the heat exchanger would be cooling off the incoming air through the supercharger. We went around the neighborhood for a little while and it seemed maybe a little better with the timing but the brakes were working very well so we brought it to the access road that is about 1/4 mile long. We did some pulls through there but even at full throttle, the car seemed to be limping a little bit. We did one final pull, this one to around 55 mph and unfortunately the accessory belt came into contact with the passenger side coolant return hose and cut through it causing a major leak. This will need replacing if we cant somehow cut out the damaged parts and put a different coolant line on it.
In terms of the car being slow, I cannot say for certain it is but I am judging it off of other peoples 0-60 times and from that I would say the car might be in the 5s to 6s (calculating it from the videos we took of the dash). It is not throwing any codes besides the normal evap codes and the previous owner tuned those out of the dash because he also cut out the evap sensor before we even got to it. It is possible we have a boost leak as there is a boost line T that would have gone to the boost gauge but we never reconnected that and we taped off that side of the T so it could be leaking from there. Other than that what are some common reasons for the car limping or not being at full power?
Goblinfanclub1234
Goblin Guru
- Goblinfanclub1234 Goblin Guru
I had to replace my MAF sensor...might be something to consider
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
- KingChuck24 Well-Known Member
Have not installed a boost gauge, going to connect the one that the donor used when the new vacuum line comes then I will get back to you on that.
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
- KingChuck24 Well-Known Member
Hello everyone it has been quite a while. Life got in the way and honestly I have been procrastinating making a post.
The issue of the car not starting and many of the electrical issues has been fixed (not all but at least it runs and drives). I dropped it off with my trusted mechanic and he couldn’t figure it out either until he decided to smell the ECU and it had a burnt smell. It ended up being completely fried and needed replacement. After that we got it retuned and it drives well.
I am almost done with my carbon fiber front splitter project. I learned working through my schools FSAE team about how easy it actually is to get started building parts so I gave it a try. First drive I didn’t realize how much support it needed so it kept flexing down and scraping against the road. I won’t be able to work on the car again until May so I’ll have time to think of solutions.
If anyone has questions about then splitter or wants to solid works files I can happily provide them for you. I also ran some rough CFD and it makes about 60 pounds of down force at 100 mph which I am happy with judging by the fact it is fully flat.
I also finally got an appointment for inspection after waiting 8 months and the guys who inspected the car were a huge help. I did a terrible job stamping the vin in and told them “I accidentally powder coated over it” and they believed that I had just tried stamping over it to fix the mistake. They then said this was the worst possible thing I could have done and it was also illegal. After all the grief they gave me they said I get a “once in a lifetime pass” and I can never do that again. So they could have easily failed me and I might’ve needed to wait another 8 months to find an appointment. I think it is because I am young and the fact that they liked the car which made them be in a better and more understanding mood.
The title application is finally submitted and hopefully we will get it in 2-3 weeks fingers crossed.
Still lots of little things that need to get done with the car but hopefully I can grind through it all in about a week.
Hope everyone is doing well!
The issue of the car not starting and many of the electrical issues has been fixed (not all but at least it runs and drives). I dropped it off with my trusted mechanic and he couldn’t figure it out either until he decided to smell the ECU and it had a burnt smell. It ended up being completely fried and needed replacement. After that we got it retuned and it drives well.
I am almost done with my carbon fiber front splitter project. I learned working through my schools FSAE team about how easy it actually is to get started building parts so I gave it a try. First drive I didn’t realize how much support it needed so it kept flexing down and scraping against the road. I won’t be able to work on the car again until May so I’ll have time to think of solutions.
If anyone has questions about then splitter or wants to solid works files I can happily provide them for you. I also ran some rough CFD and it makes about 60 pounds of down force at 100 mph which I am happy with judging by the fact it is fully flat.
I also finally got an appointment for inspection after waiting 8 months and the guys who inspected the car were a huge help. I did a terrible job stamping the vin in and told them “I accidentally powder coated over it” and they believed that I had just tried stamping over it to fix the mistake. They then said this was the worst possible thing I could have done and it was also illegal. After all the grief they gave me they said I get a “once in a lifetime pass” and I can never do that again. So they could have easily failed me and I might’ve needed to wait another 8 months to find an appointment. I think it is because I am young and the fact that they liked the car which made them be in a better and more understanding mood.
The title application is finally submitted and hopefully we will get it in 2-3 weeks fingers crossed.
Still lots of little things that need to get done with the car but hopefully I can grind through it all in about a week.
Hope everyone is doing well!
Last edited:
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
- KingChuck24 Well-Known Member
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
- KingChuck24 Well-Known Member
Yesterday we had our first track day with the car. It went surprisingly well aside from a few more minor issues. We went up to Brainerd International Raceway and drove the 2.5 mile course.
It was a really fun day and I learned a lot as this was my first time on track. There were a couple of other cool cars on the track like a new 911 GT3RS as well as a C8 z06 with an active rear wing. The car was seemingly able to keep up with them in the corners but when it came to any section that required power those cars were winning.
This brings me to our power problems. First off after 1 session (25 minutes per session) the car would enter what I presume to be limp mode, it would not rev past 4000 RPM. We would let the car sit for around 30-40 minutes and it would be able to run for another 25 minutes then again go into limp. Based off the fact that it would be good to go after sitting for a while I think it maybe has something to do with heating issues. The Coolant temps were sitting around 180 to 185 throughout the day but it might be the supercharger temps getting too hot or maybe oil temps. If anyone has had this issue what did you do to fix that?
The alignment was not perfect either as we had only done a string alignment the night before. I think this led to the car being very sensitive. What I mean by that is when going straight, having to make minor adjustments to the wheel led to the car feeling like it was going to oversteer and enter a spin. In the corners it was perfectly fine and felt actually very good in comparison. Once we have a proper alignment, hopefully, it will go a lot better.
We also think there are some power issues. When I was driving towards the end of the day, the car was quite sluggish. It seemed like when it was in boost range in third gear it was not picking up speed at all. This possibly is due to heat soak but I am not entirely sure about that either. We didn't have any datalogger on the car, which, in hindsight, would have been extremely useful. We messed with the rear wing a little and set it to its maximum downforce level and the car was topping out at around 5500 RPM in forth gear. Not sure if that is normal power or not but in fifth gear it wouldn't speed up at all.
There are a lot of things planned for the car and some more issues that need to be worked out but overall it was truly a blast! The car handles extremely well and the supercharger noise on track is just perfect. For the first track day, I thought the engine was going to blow up or the car would light on fire, but we really had no major issues. Hope others had a similar first track day experience because mine was great!
Here is the video of the car: https://youtube.com/shorts/oDqJ7sUURvM?feature=share
It was a really fun day and I learned a lot as this was my first time on track. There were a couple of other cool cars on the track like a new 911 GT3RS as well as a C8 z06 with an active rear wing. The car was seemingly able to keep up with them in the corners but when it came to any section that required power those cars were winning.
This brings me to our power problems. First off after 1 session (25 minutes per session) the car would enter what I presume to be limp mode, it would not rev past 4000 RPM. We would let the car sit for around 30-40 minutes and it would be able to run for another 25 minutes then again go into limp. Based off the fact that it would be good to go after sitting for a while I think it maybe has something to do with heating issues. The Coolant temps were sitting around 180 to 185 throughout the day but it might be the supercharger temps getting too hot or maybe oil temps. If anyone has had this issue what did you do to fix that?
The alignment was not perfect either as we had only done a string alignment the night before. I think this led to the car being very sensitive. What I mean by that is when going straight, having to make minor adjustments to the wheel led to the car feeling like it was going to oversteer and enter a spin. In the corners it was perfectly fine and felt actually very good in comparison. Once we have a proper alignment, hopefully, it will go a lot better.
We also think there are some power issues. When I was driving towards the end of the day, the car was quite sluggish. It seemed like when it was in boost range in third gear it was not picking up speed at all. This possibly is due to heat soak but I am not entirely sure about that either. We didn't have any datalogger on the car, which, in hindsight, would have been extremely useful. We messed with the rear wing a little and set it to its maximum downforce level and the car was topping out at around 5500 RPM in forth gear. Not sure if that is normal power or not but in fifth gear it wouldn't speed up at all.
There are a lot of things planned for the car and some more issues that need to be worked out but overall it was truly a blast! The car handles extremely well and the supercharger noise on track is just perfect. For the first track day, I thought the engine was going to blow up or the car would light on fire, but we really had no major issues. Hope others had a similar first track day experience because mine was great!
Here is the video of the car: https://youtube.com/shorts/oDqJ7sUURvM?feature=share
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
Regarding power issues, not being able to pull in fifth gear seems pretty normal for me assuming you're in the low 200s whp range. Maximum downforce setting on the rear wing probably doesn't help that. You can add power if you want to add a few mph but reducing aero drag is probably an easier way to add speed. The windshield and wing are the low hanging fruit there.
On the P12 (LSJ computer) there is one table plus a multiplier table for spark retard vs IAT. The LE5 looks like it has four tables, but I don't want to guess at anything there because A) I don't know how the tables work, B) I don't know if timing is the source of your power loss, and C) I don't know how an LE5 tune is set up for boost. I will say that it looks like a stock (NA) LE5 tune is set to pull less timing than an LSJ but I'm not sure I'm reading things right. I also don't know if spark retard vs IAT or extended knock retard would set a 4,000 rpm limit. I don't think the LSJ has any feature like that, but again, I'm out of my realm of expertise with the LE5. I don't think any Ecotec has an oil temp sensor so I don't think oil temps can pull power through the computer.
Are you sure your intercooler pump is working? Do you have any other mods like a dual pass endplate?
It's great to hear that otherwise the car did well though! With a tighter alignment, I'm sure you'll gain even more confidence in the car.
On the P12 (LSJ computer) there is one table plus a multiplier table for spark retard vs IAT. The LE5 looks like it has four tables, but I don't want to guess at anything there because A) I don't know how the tables work, B) I don't know if timing is the source of your power loss, and C) I don't know how an LE5 tune is set up for boost. I will say that it looks like a stock (NA) LE5 tune is set to pull less timing than an LSJ but I'm not sure I'm reading things right. I also don't know if spark retard vs IAT or extended knock retard would set a 4,000 rpm limit. I don't think the LSJ has any feature like that, but again, I'm out of my realm of expertise with the LE5. I don't think any Ecotec has an oil temp sensor so I don't think oil temps can pull power through the computer.
Are you sure your intercooler pump is working? Do you have any other mods like a dual pass endplate?
It's great to hear that otherwise the car did well though! With a tighter alignment, I'm sure you'll gain even more confidence in the car.
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
- KingChuck24 Well-Known Member
I am pretty sure the intercooler pump is working because I can see the coolant moving and hear it running when the key is turned. I am not sure if I have a dual pass endplate or not but I will check that later today. It could also be an engine health issue. Besides a leakdown test what other things should we test to see if the engine is healthy or not?
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
I'm not typically one to point to poor performance alone as an indicator of issues with engine health. In my opinion and experience, there's typically other accompanying symptoms that would point to bad rings, valve stem seals, or a head gasket causing a loss of power. I personally don't do anything more than a clear flood mode crank* to see if I've got any issues in the absence of smoke out the tailpipe, loss of coolant or oil, or a wet crankcase breather.
Others, though, may advise a compression or leakdown test, or testing coolant for exhaust gasses, just to cross potential issues off the list.
*100% accelerator pedal before turning the key, then going to the start position will turn the motor over without opening the fuel injectors, allowing you to hear any gross differences in cylinder compression
Others, though, may advise a compression or leakdown test, or testing coolant for exhaust gasses, just to cross potential issues off the list.
*100% accelerator pedal before turning the key, then going to the start position will turn the motor over without opening the fuel injectors, allowing you to hear any gross differences in cylinder compression
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
- KingChuck24 Well-Known Member
A little update with my Goblin:
I got it down to Utah! Its great because I am keeping it about 10 minutes from Utah Motorsports campus which does amateur track days on Wednesday nights along with autocross. They aren't that expensive so I have gone twice now and have another 2 more track days in October. Not to mention all the canyon roads here which are so much fun. Hoping to get some videos of this car cruising with some of my friends down here. It was keeping up with my friend in a 500 hp lotus Elise and my other friend in a 600 hp Miata which was pretty cool. They were definitely able to get away in the straights but around the corners the Goblin was faster.
Here is probably one of my favorite photos I have ever gotten of the car:
Some of the things I have realized after tracking the car more:
1. This thing is very fast but obviously struggles for high speed sections due to its drag coefficient (designing more aero parts to help with this).
2. The car did not have a dual pass endplate, which I didn't realize until about a week ago so I went ahead and installed one of those which I am excited to test next month and see if my heat soaking issue gets better.
3. I needed to clean up the rear of the car, mostly the wiring harness.
Due to #3 on the list I decided to pull the engine out which I was surprised only took me about 3 hours which was great. I have subsequently gone ahead and rewrapped and routed much of the engine harness which has really clean up the engine area.
I also realized I never installed the upgraded engine to subframe mount that came with the kit so I tried to put that on but realized that the two mounting bolts are way to short. These are the exact ones that came out of the original engine mount. Anyone know what the proper bolts to use here are?
I also realized that a lot of my high speed instability came from my rear toe link rack mount bolts being loose. I only realized this after dropping the subframe and shaking it around and when I realized I was so happy to find the issue.
In my effort to fix this issue I got the OTTP bushings for the lower control arm so I am hoping those combined with the toe link rack being tight will make the car handle super well.
In the off season which for Utah starts around November I will be building the engine. The current build list is:
ZZP Ported head
ZZP 4350 2.4L connecting rods
JE 2.4L Forged Pistons
ZZP LE5 Performance Cams
ZZP Lash adjusters
ZZP Rocker Arms
New Main and Rod Bearings
New Head Studs
ZZP neutral balance shaft
ZZP Upgraded Timing Chain kit
Going to a 2.8 Pulley (What is the best pulley size for track use? Trying to minimize heat soak while maximizing power)
Hone and Deck Block
Anyone see anything missing?
My rear wing support strut snapped while in the trailer driving down from Minnesota. How does everyone support their rear wing, I have been trying to find some solutions and I want to do two cables that form an X, anyone know of something specific to buy?
Hope everyone is doing well!
I got it down to Utah! Its great because I am keeping it about 10 minutes from Utah Motorsports campus which does amateur track days on Wednesday nights along with autocross. They aren't that expensive so I have gone twice now and have another 2 more track days in October. Not to mention all the canyon roads here which are so much fun. Hoping to get some videos of this car cruising with some of my friends down here. It was keeping up with my friend in a 500 hp lotus Elise and my other friend in a 600 hp Miata which was pretty cool. They were definitely able to get away in the straights but around the corners the Goblin was faster.
Here is probably one of my favorite photos I have ever gotten of the car:
Some of the things I have realized after tracking the car more:
1. This thing is very fast but obviously struggles for high speed sections due to its drag coefficient (designing more aero parts to help with this).
2. The car did not have a dual pass endplate, which I didn't realize until about a week ago so I went ahead and installed one of those which I am excited to test next month and see if my heat soaking issue gets better.
3. I needed to clean up the rear of the car, mostly the wiring harness.
Due to #3 on the list I decided to pull the engine out which I was surprised only took me about 3 hours which was great. I have subsequently gone ahead and rewrapped and routed much of the engine harness which has really clean up the engine area.
I also realized I never installed the upgraded engine to subframe mount that came with the kit so I tried to put that on but realized that the two mounting bolts are way to short. These are the exact ones that came out of the original engine mount. Anyone know what the proper bolts to use here are?
I also realized that a lot of my high speed instability came from my rear toe link rack mount bolts being loose. I only realized this after dropping the subframe and shaking it around and when I realized I was so happy to find the issue.
In my effort to fix this issue I got the OTTP bushings for the lower control arm so I am hoping those combined with the toe link rack being tight will make the car handle super well.
In the off season which for Utah starts around November I will be building the engine. The current build list is:
ZZP Ported head
ZZP 4350 2.4L connecting rods
JE 2.4L Forged Pistons
ZZP LE5 Performance Cams
ZZP Lash adjusters
ZZP Rocker Arms
New Main and Rod Bearings
New Head Studs
ZZP neutral balance shaft
ZZP Upgraded Timing Chain kit
Going to a 2.8 Pulley (What is the best pulley size for track use? Trying to minimize heat soak while maximizing power)
Hone and Deck Block
Anyone see anything missing?
My rear wing support strut snapped while in the trailer driving down from Minnesota. How does everyone support their rear wing, I have been trying to find some solutions and I want to do two cables that form an X, anyone know of something specific to buy?
Hope everyone is doing well!
