V1 Matt C's Street Goblin - Extended Frame #355 - 06 LS Donor

[Matt C]

Well, haven't gotten much done on the build lately. Pretty much just waiting on the next stage of parts to arrive. I did get the subframe and trans mounts all torqued down and installed the rear controls arms. Still can't start it up yet as I'm still waiting on the fuel pump ring and a coolant hose splice that they'll be sending with my stage 2 hardware. I feel like I'm soooo close, but yet still have a lot left to do.

Also been doing a LOT of research on tire/wheel combos. I think I've settled on Vors LP1 wheels and Toyo R888R tires. I think that'll look sick. Maybe a 245 front and 275 in the rear. Might need spacers for the rear though.

I'm going to be using stock struts for the rear suspension. In reviewing how they're installed, It just appears that the original top stock strut mount is removed. then the strut is attached to the strut plate supplied by DF. Is there a spacer or any other hardware that comes with stage 2 to install the stock struts? Is there anything I need to have to install them that I need to have on my own first?

 

[Ross]

I was able to install the stock shocks/struts with a coil over adapter kit from QA. I have since upgraded to the BC shocks, so if you want some used coil over kit, $75 and it is yours. I don't think you need any extra hardware to install the stock struts on a Goblin.

 

[SmsDetroit]

I have those same rims. I had to at 5/8” spacers but the rear running 275/45/R18 out back and 255/45/R18 up front

 

[Rttoys]

That’s a great tire/wheel setup, but I would highly recommend upgrading the struts, mostly for the adjustability. You can can tighten it up or make it loose, however you want it.

 

[Matt C]

Finally got my Stage 2 hardware a couple week ago. Been busy working an hour here and and hour there putting things together. Got the steering all buttoned up. Got most of the front suspension put together. Just have to install the passenger coilover. Ended up getting a bunch of non locking nuts to put the suspension together, since I'm sure I'll have to be pulling them off and adjusting the rod ends a bunch once I'm ready to adjust everything. Seems like it would be a lot easier than having to keep undoing the nylocks.

Got most of the coolant added, (with no leaks!) and engine oil added. I'm just about ready to start it for the first time since I pulled the engine out of the donor last April/May. I did a dry start the other day to see if it would turn over, and help pump some oil around a little. Worked like a charm.

I ended up going with stock struts for the rear to see how that works for the time being. Probably will end up upgrading to adjustable coilovers in the future. I'm also going to upgrade the steering wheel to DF's quick detachable wheel.

We're gettin there.

 

[Matt C]

First start! It's alive!

Wasn't getting good coolant circulation at first. Let it run for a few minutes, then run it between 2000-2500 RPM for 2-3 minutes and keeping an eye on the coolant level, adding some as it goes, and boom, all air seems to be purged and holding good temp. Not to bad for my first complete engine rebuild.

 

[Matt C]

Does anyone happen to know what these connectors are for? The green one is bundled with the fuel pump connector. I though it was my coolant level sensor, but my coolant bottle doesn't have a sensor (and I don't remember removing one).

The second one (black 4 pin) is a pigtail out of the main harness in the tunnel, near the shifter.

 

[Lonny]

Ambient air and automatic shifter wiring.

 

[KSLunsfo]

Just curious, what's the deal with your fuel tank? Did you modify/custom make a tank? Looks a bit different than all the DF tanks I've seen here.

 

[Rttoys]

Should be DF’s new plastic tank (polycarbonate or whatever).

 

[KSLunsfo]

Should be DF’s new plastic tank (polycarbonate or whatever).

Oh! Didn't know that was a thing!

 

[Matt C]

Yup. It looked to be a new type of plastic tank. I hadn't seen one yet in any of the pictures on the form until I got my deliver with the frame back in December.

 

[Matt C]

Did some more tinkering the last couple nights. Got the shifter finished and the shift cable laid in place. Also fastened the tunnel cover sections down. I didn't feel like going with rivets, so I drilled the holes slightly larger and used a Philips flange head sheet metal screw. They worked great. Just never know when I might have to take the tunnel cap back off in the future.

Also started working on the rear struts. I'm using the donor struts (albeit new ones). I ended up cutting on rung of the spring off as mentioned in the video, but now looking back, I don't think my spring looked the same as in the video. The spring end digs into the spring seat on the strut and doesn't sit as flat as it used to before I cut it. Mainly because the twist of the spring changes as it goes up, so It doesn't sit flush on the seat. Not sure if this will cause any issues. Worst comes to worst, I'll just order a new spring and start all over again.

Can anyone tell me if it looks like I installed the strut correctly? Is the tread at the top similar to other builds? The nut is on there about 2-3 turns. It seems to line up, but I wasn't able to find any good images, or directions on installing the donor struts.

 

[Ross]

2 or 3 threads is a problem on that strut nut. The strut should fit in the recessed aluminum (yours is black) at the top, and it is a tight tolerance fit. That black ~triangle piece has a relief notch on the bottom. Not sure if this is your issue, but it caught me once.

 

[Gtstorey]

When I had my struts on I had a top nut that had a built in spacer on it and I still got threads through the top of the nut. There is always the chance the strut has been replaced with a non-oem that isn't made quite the same and could cause issues (although I don't remember any post with that issue).

I'm also a little concerned with how you springs are seated since the spring looks way off center. But mine had aftermarket springs that could have what was different.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Did some more tinkering the last couple nights. Got the shifter finished and the shift cable laid in place. Also fastened the tunnel cover sections down. I didn't feel like going with rivets, so I drilled the holes slightly larger and used a Philips flange head sheet metal screw. They worked great. Just never know when I might have to take the tunnel cap back off in the future.

Also started working on the rear struts. I'm using the donor struts (albeit new ones). I ended up cutting on rung of the spring off as mentioned in the video, but now looking back, I don't think my spring looked the same as in the video. The spring end digs into the spring seat on the strut and doesn't sit as flat as it used to before I cut it. Mainly because the twist of the spring changes as it goes up, so It doesn't sit flush on the seat. Not sure if this will cause any issues. Worst comes to worst, I'll just order a new spring and start all over again.

Can anyone tell me if it looks like I installed the strut correctly? Is the tread at the top similar to other builds? The nut is on there about 2-3 turns. It seems to line up, but I wasn't able to find any good images, or directions on installing the donor struts.

Matt, you could always find a kind soul on the forum who will not be using the stock struts, in lieu of the BC struts, who could send you their springs - rather than buying new. That's the magic of our Goblin family.

 

[Waterdriver]

Can anyone tell me if it looks like I installed the strut correctly? Is the tread at the top similar to other builds? The nut is on there about 2-3 turns. It seems to line up, but I wasn't able to find any good images, or directions on installing the donor struts.

I have the same issue. The aluminum adapter is pocketed for the top of the strut and has to go in straight to seat all the way in.
This will require loosening the 3 bolts attaching the aluminum strut shaft mounting plate to the chassis.
Raising the vehicle with a floor jack. Loosen the 3 bolts.
Manipulate the plate to the strut shaft until it seats completely into the adapter.
If you can, tighten the strut top nut enough to hold it in place to prevent it from unseating itself.
Mount the aluminum adapter plate back to the chassis, if removed, or tighten and torque the 3 bolts.
Torque strut top nut.

Hope this helps.

 

[Matt C]

When I had my struts on I had a top nut that had a built in spacer on it and I still got threads through the top of the nut. There is always the chance the strut has been replaced with a non-oem that isn't made quite the same and could cause issues (although I don't remember any post with that issue).

I'm also a little concerned with how you springs are seated since the spring looks way off center. But mine had aftermarket springs that could have what was different.

Yeah, I was concerned with how the spring was seated as well, but the other spring is off center too on the strut, and I haven't modified that one yet, so I guess that's how it's supposed to look.

 

[Matt C]

I have the same issue. The aluminum adapter is pocketed for the top of the strut and has to go in straight to seat all the way in.
This will require loosening the 3 bolts attaching the aluminum strut shaft mounting plate to the chassis.
Raising the vehicle with a floor jack. Loosen the 3 bolts.
Manipulate the plate to the strut shaft until it seats completely into the adapter.
If you can, tighten the strut top nut enough to hold it in place to prevent it from unseating itself.
Mount the aluminum adapter plate back to the chassis, if removed, or tighten and torque the 3 bolts.
Torque strut top nut.

Hope this helps.

Thanks! I'll give that try for sure. I'm also thinking I might need to compress the spring more to get more clearance for the strut shaft to to seat further up. Did you modify the spring at all, or just keep the stock spring height?

 

[Lonny]

This is how it should look when tight.