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V1 Matt3458's Daily Goblin - 2006 SS/SC #480

Matt3458
I found my TN and TN/BK serial wires are soldered together backwards. Rather than trying to find the original solders in the harness or resolder then backwards again somewhere else, I decided to just swap their pin positions at the BCM connector. Now my problem is reassembling the connector, because none of these pins are aligned and the bottom piece doesn't center them when pushed on.

My frustration with being so close to seeing if that is my no crank problem and the awkward location of this connector means I'm done for today. I guess I'll bang my head against it tomorrow.
 

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G
I made the mistake of trying to unpin the wires not needed on mine. All I can offer is it will take a lot of patience. I finally got it all back together, but it took a lot of messing with it to do it.
 
Matt3458
She runs with the key! Spent a lot, a LOT of time trying to get the BCM connector pins to play nice. Ended up breaking the terminal position locking tab and had to wait to get another.

It's revving when it runs, almost staging before revving up. Is that because intake isn't set up yet?
 
Matt3458
Oh, and still don't have OBD2 because I have no continuity on the #2 pin to the PCM. I assume that's just for communicating with the reader. I'm thinking of just running a new wire down the tunnel instead of trying to hunt down the solder in my harness.
 
Matt3458
Ran a new wire from the OBDII to the PCM connector. Turns out I had cut that wire. Not sure why. Not sure if something different was supposed to cut but wasn't. Regardless, I have OBDII now:

P0017 - Crankshaft Position
P0452 - Evap System Pressure
P2229 - Barometric Pressure

The Crankshaft Position is the one the worries me, especially as I just did the timing chain. Gonna start looking that one up now.
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Matt3458
Can someone tell me what these JDAE pieces are? Can't find any mention of them on the forum.
 

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Mahkoi
They go above the rear shock and below the little triangle top strut mount thing I believe.
Are those only for the cobalt struts and not if you were using the upgraded BC ones from DF? I swear I still have those sitting in a drawer and didnt end up using them.
 
Traé
Are those only for the cobalt struts and not if you were using the upgraded BC ones from DF? I swear I still have those sitting in a drawer and didnt end up using them.
Yes, I had the same question when building and I didn’t need them with the coilovers.
 
Matt3458
I'm struggling with the engine timing. I replaced the timing chain before installing the engine. There is a clacking noise coming from near the chain so I pulled it apart again. Now I'm trying to get everything lined up:


Cylinder 1 is top dead center on compression stroke, both valves closed.
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Crank index is at 12 o'clock, timing mark at 5 o'clock, as expected.
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However, the cam sprockets will ONLY index onto the the cams 180° out, so the INT mark is where the EXH should be on the exhaust cam.
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If I were to roll the cams so the sprocket marks are where they're supposed to be, then cyl 1 would would be on the intake stroke, and everything online says it should be compression.... I'm completely baffled. It appears that the cam indexes are backwards, but I know from experience that if it looks like something's designed backwards I usually screwed up something somewhere.
 
Traé
What are you referencing to do the timing? I used the cloyes video on YouTube and had no issues ;

Here’s a ZZP video of timing on the LSJ;

Since you’re in there with the chain off it may be beneficial to redo it using this video.
 
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Matt3458
I've referenced those videos. The issue I'm having now, is the cam sprockets only key in position. They're supposed to be in this position:


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But on mine, their 180 out. For exhaust cam, INT is where EXH is, and EXH is at about 6 o'clock. You can see in that image where the keyway is, running between 2 and 7 o'clock. Mines closer to 12-6 o'clock.
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So it looks like the cam is 180 out, but that should be impossible if it's on TDC at compression?
 
Ross
Cylinder 1 and 4 are on the same side of the crankshaft, and 2 and 3 are 180 degrees opposite.
So if cylinder 1 is TDC, so is cylinder 4.
It is the cam shaft that determines weather cyl 1 is starting on intake stroke, and cyl 4 is starting on power stroke, or vise versa.
 
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A
I'm completely baffled. It appears that the cam indexes are backwards, but I know from experience that if it looks like something's designed backwards I usually screwed up something somewhere.
[/QUOTE]
In this pic the cam we are looking at is(supposed to be) the exhaust cam. I just wanted to make sure you hadn't swapped, cams either on the engine or in your head. I am really curious as to what is going on here! It IS hard to put stuff together wrong but in many cases I find I can usually mis-assemble something if I try!;)
 
Ross
Do you have the intake and exhaust cams on the wrong side?
There should be an "E" in the casting on the exhaust cam, and an "I" on the intake.
I can take a picture of my cams when I get home on Monday... as I have my 2nd engine apart right now.

When everything is correctly aligned, the exhaust cam slot (green arrow) is cut slightly off center, and more towards the blue line at 5 o'clock.
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But your exhaust cam slot is offset slightly towards 10 o'clock. Should be 5 o'clock.
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A
Do you have the intake and exhaust cams on the wrong side?
There should be an "E" in the casting on the exhaust cam, and an "I" on the intake.
I can take a picture of my cams when I get home on Monday... as I have my 2nd engine apart right now.

When everything is correctly aligned, the exhaust cam slot (green arrow) is cut slightly off center, and more towards the blue line at 5 o'clock.
View attachment 54212

But your exhaust cam slot is offset slightly towards 10 o'clock. Should be 5 o'clock.
View attachment 54211
For some reason my brain always has the intake cam on the Left, but this design has intake cam on the right.(obviously) Looking at an earlier pic in this post I suspect the cams are swapped; comparing lobe position. I wish I could see the casting marks.
 
A
Take a good look at your crank sprocket as well. It may just be the odd picture angle but I think I see a white dot on the face of the crank gear for the color coded chain link and it appears it is one or two teeth too far clockwise.
 
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