-
We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.
V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor
motorcycle guys on the track are the worst.
- mike_sno Goblin Guru
Little offtopic, but has anyone a 4 pin wiring diagramm for a selfmade trailer harness with diods?
I have one of those aftermarket devices in my car which combin the brake and turn signal. I sketched up a wiring with some relays, but I think it should be possible to do it with some diods as well. Just can´t get my head around it.
I have one of those aftermarket devices in my car which combin the brake and turn signal. I sketched up a wiring with some relays, but I think it should be possible to do it with some diods as well. Just can´t get my head around it.
- mike_sno Goblin Guru
1. Yes, but the Goblin is currently not part of my question. I want to pull a trailer or whatever behind my Minivan. It´s equiped with an E Trailer adapter which seems to be damaged.
2. Yes, I also want to pull trailer behind the Goblin, once I have asked you how you attached the trailer hitch. But also not part of this question.
@Gtstorey I have a Minivan, it has separate Turn and Brake Signals. For the trailer, I have 4 wires. Turn and Brake is combined. So If you brake and turn at the same time, you have to make sure that both work. If you just brake or just turn it needs to work too. I came up with a small relais circuit, but I think it might be possible to achieve the same with a bunch of diodes and some wiring magic. ChatGTP could not figut rhe relais or the diode circuit out.
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
I asked my browser: "how to make your own trailer brake & turn light controller"
and the first response is AI:
For the turn and brake light converter, a common DIY project involves building a circuit that combines the separate stop (brake) and turn signals from your vehicle into a single signal for the trailer, ensuring the trailer's lights function correctly. This circuit typically uses high-current Schottky diodes to OR-connect the stop and turn signals, feeding them into a P-Channel MOSFET. The MOSFET is controlled by zener diodes that create a negative OR connection, turning the MOSFET on when either the stop or turn signal is off, and off when both are on simultaneously. This design reduces voltage drop from the typical 2.5V to just 0.5V at 2A, significantly improving light brightness. The circuit can be built using a simple breadboard or protoboard, and the MOSFET and diodes must be rated for the expected current load—up to 7.5A may require a heat sink. Overvoltage protection is provided by a zener diode on the MOSFET gate to guard against electrical transients common in automotive systems.
You probably can build a brake & turn light combiner using diodes, but the AI makes a good point, that the diode's 2.5V voltage drop will make the goblins lights dim, while a MOSFET typically will only loose 0.5 volts.
Here is the easy way out:
Curt 4-Way Flat Trailer Connector with Circuit Protected Powered Tail Light Converter $36
Taillight Converter with Molded Terminals, 60" $22
Trailer Light Converter - 3 To 2 Wires $15 (Takes the minivan's Left, Right & Stop wires, and converts to the goblin's Left & Right)
and the first response is AI:
For the turn and brake light converter, a common DIY project involves building a circuit that combines the separate stop (brake) and turn signals from your vehicle into a single signal for the trailer, ensuring the trailer's lights function correctly. This circuit typically uses high-current Schottky diodes to OR-connect the stop and turn signals, feeding them into a P-Channel MOSFET. The MOSFET is controlled by zener diodes that create a negative OR connection, turning the MOSFET on when either the stop or turn signal is off, and off when both are on simultaneously. This design reduces voltage drop from the typical 2.5V to just 0.5V at 2A, significantly improving light brightness. The circuit can be built using a simple breadboard or protoboard, and the MOSFET and diodes must be rated for the expected current load—up to 7.5A may require a heat sink. Overvoltage protection is provided by a zener diode on the MOSFET gate to guard against electrical transients common in automotive systems.
You probably can build a brake & turn light combiner using diodes, but the AI makes a good point, that the diode's 2.5V voltage drop will make the goblins lights dim, while a MOSFET typically will only loose 0.5 volts.
Here is the easy way out:
Curt 4-Way Flat Trailer Connector with Circuit Protected Powered Tail Light Converter $36
Taillight Converter with Molded Terminals, 60" $22
Trailer Light Converter - 3 To 2 Wires $15 (Takes the minivan's Left, Right & Stop wires, and converts to the goblin's Left & Right)
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Fix the e-trailer connector Wire in the DF (or similar) trailer harness. Check for function. Pull the Goblin behind van.
It’s pretty easy. I think you are over complicating it all for the van to Goblin. Three of the harness wires splice into a BCM harness and the fourth is a ground.
It’s pretty easy. I think you are over complicating it all for the van to Goblin. Three of the harness wires splice into a BCM harness and the fourth is a ground.
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
Have you looked to see if there is a direct plug in trailer harness for you mini-van? There probably is. Unless you wired the trailer yourself, it should use a standard flat plug. If you wired it to use something else, it will be easier to fix the trailer to match the standard.
And quit trying to use AI for technical things. It's not anywhere close to that.
And quit trying to use AI for technical things. It's not anywhere close to that.
- mike_sno Goblin Guru
Here we go again. Just talked to @DRL who bought my original LAP engine and is now selling a LNF.
Do I need to swap again? Going from LAP to LSJ and now from LSJ to LNF?
Getting a TV 1320 seems to be unrealistic due to price. Twin charging? To much work DIY fabrication. Going LNF building a new Harness (ugh, not interested, but it's overseaable and I wonder if I get it done in 30h after doing it already once.
Opinions?
How much turbo lag is there ? Is it noticeable ? How about HP tuners, which ECU is more unlocked ?
Do I need to swap again? Going from LAP to LSJ and now from LSJ to LNF?
Getting a TV 1320 seems to be unrealistic due to price. Twin charging? To much work DIY fabrication. Going LNF building a new Harness (ugh, not interested, but it's overseaable and I wonder if I get it done in 30h after doing it already once.
Opinions?
How much turbo lag is there ? Is it noticeable ? How about HP tuners, which ECU is more unlocked ?
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
Wow, you picked a lot of work no matter which option you choose. If you already have the LSJ, then I would work with that. The TVS1320 would not be my first choice for power, as it quickly overwhelms the stock intercooler. A turbo kit with an external intercooler can make bigger power than the TVS. There are lots of injectors available for the LSJ. I have the FIC 870 CC Split Spray injectors (Bosch EV-14ES) but if you want even bigger, I hear good things about the Injector Dynamics ID1050X.
The LNF already has the turbo, but they also come with that high pressure fuel pump, and direct injection. This is good if you want to big power with a stock engine, but it also reduces option if you want bigger power. You can run the Opel injectors or the LNF injectors, but after that, I think the only option is to add a 5th injector... which is a low pressure intake injector before the stock direct injectors. Not sure if this is integrated with the stock ECU, or if you need to go to an aftermarket ECU. Also tuning the stock ECU is a more specialized skill than the LSJ ECU.
The stock turbo does not really have noticeable turbo lag. How much lag does the bigger BorgWarner 7163 or Z57 turbo have??? IDK, but would assume it come with some lag.
The LNF already has the turbo, but they also come with that high pressure fuel pump, and direct injection. This is good if you want to big power with a stock engine, but it also reduces option if you want bigger power. You can run the Opel injectors or the LNF injectors, but after that, I think the only option is to add a 5th injector... which is a low pressure intake injector before the stock direct injectors. Not sure if this is integrated with the stock ECU, or if you need to go to an aftermarket ECU. Also tuning the stock ECU is a more specialized skill than the LSJ ECU.
The stock turbo does not really have noticeable turbo lag. How much lag does the bigger BorgWarner 7163 or Z57 turbo have??? IDK, but would assume it come with some lag.
Last edited:
- mike_sno Goblin Guru
@Ross Turbo kit is around $1500+ I would think? How much trouble would make the TVS with E85?
@Robinjo I have already quite a bit of extras on my LSJ. Siemens 80 lbs injectors, high pressure fuel pump, boost reference fuel rail setup, 3in exhaust, dual pass inlet, LS throttle body, E85. I still have the electric fuel pump to put in and the balance shaft delete to do. Following the valve springs for higher RPM. I never had it on the dyno, wonder how much it makes at the moment. Maybe the Injector Duty cycle could give a rough estimate?
@Robinjo I have already quite a bit of extras on my LSJ. Siemens 80 lbs injectors, high pressure fuel pump, boost reference fuel rail setup, 3in exhaust, dual pass inlet, LS throttle body, E85. I still have the electric fuel pump to put in and the balance shaft delete to do. Following the valve springs for higher RPM. I never had it on the dyno, wonder how much it makes at the moment. Maybe the Injector Duty cycle could give a rough estimate?
- mike_sno Goblin Guru
Has anyone tried using Wago connectors to build the harness? Still thinking about the TC Engine and how to build the harness the fastest way.
kinequip.com
WAGO 221-412 (100 pack) at Kinequip
Shop the Wago 221-412 at Kinequip - Compact Splicing Connector 2-Conductor Terminal Block - Pack of 100 units. Features include 2 points of connections.
kinequip.com
Similar threads
