V1 Nate - Track Goblin - 2008 Cobalt Donor

[Nate]

@Lonny no I don't believe that #1 plugs in to either of those.

@Briann1177 #2 is definitely the secondary O2 sensor. Currently running an errand but will get back to #4-7 in a bit

 

[ctuinstra]

#3 is the power steering that plugs into the fuse box.

 

[Briann1177]

#3 is the power steering that plugs into the fuse box.

That was my thought too, but the colors don't line up. I think my PS connector is black.

 

[Brian74]

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php...r-2009-ss-tc-track-frame.396/page-2#post-4358

I don’t know if this will help, but the Chilton online manuals have a connector diagram for all the connectors and the wire colors as well. It just takes some patience in learning to navigate the menus to find what you need.

 

[Nate]

Good Evening Ladies and Gents,

I had a question as to some of the modifications to the ECM and TCM computers. Is there a tool/way in order to pull the pins from the source of these computers in order to clean up the wiring? Can you purchase these pins separately in order to rewire these computers as well as the pins to the fuse block blocks? I would rather remove the wires than rubber dip them so the finished product looks cleaner.

Thanks in advance,
Nate

 

[Brian74]

Good Evening Ladies and Gents,

I had a question as to some of the modifications to the ECM and TCM computers. Is there a tool/way in order to pull the pins from the source of these computers in order to clean up the wiring? Can you purchase these pins separately in order to rewire these computers as well as the pins to the fuse block blocks? I would rather remove the wires than rubber dip them so the finished product looks cleaner.

Thanks in advance,
Nate

For the Bosch series ECM connectors, The pins are a few bucks each and the crimper is $2000. I don’t see any reason you cant use a standard small specialty crimper though, which I will be doing.

For the delphi, packard and other connectors, its a similar case.

You can often extract the pins with a regular extractor tool or safety pin.

 

[Nate]

Hey Brian,

I guess I am just not understanding the mechanism needed to "unfeed" the wires out of the ECM computers.

How does one take wires out of this?

I have 6 or 7 wires that were to plugs for unnecessary items on my goblin which I would rather just remove entirely rather than cut and seal.

Nate

 

[Brian74]

Google “how to depin an automotive connector.” There are tons of how-to write ups and forum discussions. They are all the same, for the most part. You typically need to remove any backshell clamp (if it exists) and then use the extractor tool to release the spring clip that is holding the pin in. Its pretty much trial and error until you find the tool & technique that works. You may want to visit hit a pull your own yard and cut off a similar connector or two to practice on until you get good at it (thats how I usually do it).

 

[Brian74]

Also, dont waste your money on an extractor tool. You can often use a large safety pin, filed down jeweler’s screwdriver, or thin metal strip from a wiper blade instead. Every connector requires a slightly different tool and technique.

 

[Tony]

Is connector #1 the MAF? That was my first instinct when I saw it. And #3 looks like the parking brake connector, but if those are all engine harness plugs, I doubt that's it. As far as depinning the ECM connectors, I just cut those flush. I depinned all the other connectors, but that one in particular was not worth the trouble to me - it's quite a bit more difficult.

 

[Karter2026]

#1 is Secondary Air Injection for the soleinoid.

#3 is the power to the Secondary Air Injection Motor that mounted in the front of the oil pan

 

[Nate]

Good Evening,

I attempted to start my car tonight with my father, but unfortunately my car had other plans. Immediately when supplying power to the car the anti-theft system light came on. I do have multiple parts from different cars (2009 engine VVT, 2008 key and ignition, and 2010 harness/computers). We attempted to do the 30 minute reset but did not have any success. Also attempted to put a bypass switch on the crank but was not able to crank the engine.

Below is the picture of the dash, no other indicators came on besides the security system light.

If anyone has any suggestions on how to work around this and get my engine to turn over that would be very helpful.

Thank you in advance for your response.

Nate

 

[Briann1177]

Dumb question but is the theft module on the ignition switch plugged in?

 

[ctuinstra]

Dumb question but is the theft module on the ignition switch plugged in?

Are you talking about the black plastic ring around the ignition key slot? That's a good suggestion. It's important for it to be able to "read" the key.

 

[ctuinstra]

I don't see how you are going to get different keys and ECM/BCMs to work together if they have never been programmed to work together.

 

[Briann1177]

Yes. After re reading, his situation might be a bit more complicated with different year ECM and ignition switch.

 

[Nate]

All of the ignition plugs are secured but it is going right to a lock out of the vehicle. I am getting no other indications except for that locked/theft signal

 

[Lonny]

Do you have the headlamp harness multi plug installed in the fuse box? A square white plug. If so did you hook up the big ground wire coming from it? A lot of things don't work if it is not hooked up.

 

[JSATX]

Maybe have Adam or ZZP turn off your VATS?

 

[Nate]

@Lonny
Yes I do have the multi plug harness connected and grounded. I think I am just going to have to spend the day and go through all the wires, perhaps I missed a ground someplace. However, I would expect multiple indicator lights to come up rather than just the VATS indicator. On the bright side, at least I have power or else no light would be popping up at all.