V1 Not an actual corgi's Build Log - 2007 SS/SC

[Corgithulhu]

The jury is still out on the above low speed data question. Lonny has been as busy as a cat with puppies, but as soon as I can ask him I will!

I have made some decent progress on the car though! I got the suspension and brakes in over the last few days. Definitely good to lean on the other build logs and photos on the website for the rear suspension. The front differs slightly from the front suspension and brake videos, but you should be able to follow along and get it done relatively easily.

Another electrical question incoming. So what we won't talk about is what kind of dummy I am for cutting out the turn signal switch connectors during the harness thinning. Someone obviously possessed my body and cut them out. I am in the process of fixing that demon's errors and have to wire the switch back in. Now that that's out of the way - I pulled the diagrams and it seems pretty straight forward since I found what wires on the switch go where on the BCM connectors (luckily we also realized my the mistake before taping the whole harness up and found the pink/white low beam relay extension and ran it up to the steering wheel area). The only question I have now is the signal wires. I found where they terminate in the wiring diagram, but is that just a simple body ground? Can I just run the black/white wires from the two connectors to the dash grounding lug, and that'll be valid?

The headlamp part of the MFS has the same illustration for the circuit 651 BK/WH grounding wire.

 

[Gtstorey]

I'm not sure what you are asking about on the turn signal wiring. Which wire are you talking about grounding?

 

[Corgithulhu]

I'm not sure what you are asking about on the turn signal wiring. Which wire are you talking about grounding?

Each turn signal switch (the one on the steering column) connector has a "signal ground". I want to make sure that signal ground is electrically the same as the chassis ground.

 

[Gtstorey]

Each turn signal switch (the one on the steering column) connector has a "signal ground". I want to make sure that signal ground is electrically the same as the chassis ground.

Yes, the grounds are all the same.

 

[Corgithulhu]

Got some great advice from Lonny - the 2007 SS/SC models with the LSJ have a green wire in pin 2 of the OBD that needs to run down to the pin 16 in the PCM connector C1. It is distinctly separate from the regular low speed green data wire that gets spliced into other systems. You can just run a wire straight between the OBD connector pin 2 and the PCM C1 pin 16.

With that, and getting the multi function turn signal switch wired into the BCM connector, my work is quite literally cut out for me.

I also found out the wheels I'm going with (Enkei Countergram) are in some sort of limbo of ETA. I got on craigslist and lucked out that someone was selling a set of wheels for a Nissan Rogue that bolt up to my 5x4.5" adapters nicely. After some quick reviews of the Rogue's OEM fitment specs, I met the guy and took them home. My plan is to put the Goblin's tires, which have been in stock for months now, on these wheels. Once the Konigs come in, the car should be nice and shaken down and I'll just swap the tires over. I also kind of don't mind the look of the steelies at all. Maybe I'll make them track wheels and leave some slicks on them.

 

[Rauq]

I also found out the wheels I'm going with (Enkei Countergram) are in some sort of limbo of ETA.

Once the Konigs come in, the car should be nice and shaken down and I'll just swap the tires over.

You sure you got your wheels picked out?

I kid. Lonny probably knows more about Cobalts than any other single person in history, GM employees (past and present) included. Glad you're getting things figured out, even if the fix is not going to be super fun.

 

[Corgithulhu]

Oh man, how embarrassing to call the Rota Countergrams by the wrong brand! They are definitely Avid.1's!

Honestly, I don't super mind the fix! I've always had fun soldering and wiring things. Plus, luckily the weather is getting more compliant to working outside without basting like a turkey.

 

[Corgithulhu]

I got the OBD wire fixed by running from pin 2 on the OBD to pin 16 on the PCM connector mentioned above. I did find something out, and maybe someone searching this forum in the future will be helped by this: the VATS (at least on the 2007 and 2006 SS/SC models) receives 12V+ via an HVAC 10A fuse on the BCM. I used that as a spare when I had a failed fuse for my tail lights, and it kept the car from starting. Make sure HVAC/PK3 still has its fuse in place.

Car and OBD run just fine now! On to wiring in the dash switches, bleeding the brakes/clutch, and then getting the seats in place! Running the car around under its own power is getting very close!

 

[Ross]

Thanks for sharing the VATs fuse. I updated the Goblin BCM fuse diagram.

 

[Corgithulhu]

Just so people can see the diagram I referenced:

 

[Corgithulhu]

I got the shifter in today, and it was pretty sloppy engaging 5th and reverse. Come to find out that the rubber dome that acts as a bushing on that arm that moves the "path" selector on the transmission had only about 25% left and it was just dangling on the arm doing nothing. Seems like some ham-fisted goober was shifting in this car's past.

I think I'm going to try and 3D print one out of TPU and butter it up in grease and see how bad it is. Will report back.


This is a good one

This is mine:

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Racer Boi speed shifting to beat dat fast'n furious rice burner off da light!!! Hope your trans internals are not as trashed as the shifter connected to it.

 

[Corgithulhu]

The internals felt great! I drove the Cobalt, and all five gears pulled hard with no noises. I think it was just ugly shifting side to side and slamming it around in the shifter.

 

[Corgithulhu]

So I don't think it'll be a permanent fix, but it's honestly not horrible at all! Feels good and sturdy (made of TPU). I'm able to grab fifth and reverse without manipulating the levers, which is a win for me.

 

[Corgithulhu]

Well yesterday was the big day! My dad came down for the day to get it driving for the first time. Bleeding the brakes was uneventful, but the clutch was leaking at the fitting on the transmission. Turns out it was leaking because the little seal that is supposed to be on the nipple sticking out of the bellhousing was missing (seems like that's not hard to lose?). Unsurprisingly, that little seal was not anywhere local. I couldn't even find it online after a little bit of searching. Our quick redneck fix was to grab an 010 and two 009 O-rings from the local auto parts store and build up something that resembles that seal. Put the 010 in the little notch where the bottom of the seal fits, then stacked the 009s on the brass nipple itself. It seemed to do a fantastic job and held a bleed nicely. I don't think I can recommend that for long term, but it gets the job done to drive it for a bit.

The alignment was pretty easy. Only fixing toe was necessary on the back and front. The front ride height and camber were dead on Adam's spec in his two alignment posts. I followed Lonny's video for the front suspension as close as possible (things like backing the heim joints out four turns and the ride height measurement for the coilovers), so I credit his starting specs as why it was so accurate. Caster was about 6.5 degrees when they recommend 7.5-8.5, so we didn't consider it necessary to adjust just to do some low speed drives through the neighborhood.

The BCM continues to be a very quirky piece for me. For some reason, after sitting around without key-on power for a few days or a week, it decided that it won't crank unless the park or headlights are on. And when it does crank, the anti-theft light is lit on the dash. But turning the lights off when it's running has no effect. Not sure I'm super bothered by that, since it's a bit of a security feature, and I also think having the lights on all the time is only safer in a car like this. OBD works now though after the LSJ-unique green wire fix earlier in the thread.

Overall, extremely pleased with the car! For being almost entirely exposed, it's weirdly cozy. Power delivery from the supercharged engine is smooth, but you are always aware of how strong it is. For now, it's limited to neighborhood roads until I can get a tag on it and get it road legal!

 

[Rauq]

If you can trailer it, there's an autocross in Clemson next Saturday 9/25. I'm not 100% on being there yet but it's about as laid back of an autocross as you'll ever find. The lot is pretty small but they make the most of it. When I got my car finished up, I did a few minutes around the neighborhood and then trailered it to Clemson for an autocross. I had to bed in the brakes in the parking lot before my first run, but it was a blast. First time driving the car in anger, and I came in 5th out of 40-something cars. $20 to participate, free to watch.

 

[Corgithulhu]

I don't have a trailer for it, but I might have to show up and spectate!

Also, after your experience with the SC DMV, do you think now is a good time to start the registration process? The lights all work, just the horn for some reason isn't, but that can be solved kind of quickly if needed. I haven't requested the MCO yet, I was going to wait to avoid doing it too early of course.

 

[Rauq]

If it looks like its final form, then you're probably ready. I submitted pictures with my paperwork to the state which may not have been 100% necessary but I was advised by folks in Blythewood that it would definitely help. It could not run, none of the lights work, etc., and none of that matters. The only person that needs to see the car in person is the DMV Agent who signs a piece of paper saying the serial number/VIN on your frame matches what's on the paperwork, so they don't really care if it runs or if the lights work or anything like that.

Hypothetically speaking if I had access to a trailer that could fit 2 Goblins, would that influence your autox decision? I mean it when I say it's super laid back. Our classing system is FWD, not FWD, Miata, and then stock or not stock for each, plus a Novice class.

 

[Corgithulhu]

Thank you!

I don't know if I want to drive it under anger just yet. There's a lot of goofiness going on that I want to sort out before that. I'm still not super confident in the clutch right now because of that sealing issue and seeing some drips on the floor this morning.

 

[Rttoys]

Thank you!

I don't know if I want to drive it under anger just yet. There's a lot of goofiness going on that I want to sort out before that. I'm still not super confident in the clutch right now because of that sealing issue and seeing some drips on the floor this morning.

I had issues with mine at the beginning and when it fails, you have no clutch at all. On the plus side, I know the battery has enough power to start in first gear and I can still float gears

You do need a few miles under you belt before autocross. You never know what quirky things that might not be right and need to be addressed, plus some seat time is a good thing.