V1 Nuker's City Goblin build - 2007 SS SC Donor - Completed/Licensed

[TheNuker]

Sweet that worked, d-40 plus light tapping with deadblow and it locked in.

Hopefully my wiring will be done soon and I can fire this baby up!

Nuker

 

[TheNuker]

What hose does the vacuum line we run down the tunnel connect to on the engine side on the ss/sc?

Thanks,
Nuker

 

[TheNuker]

New hubs and moog front steering rack ball ends are here! Excited to pickup the stage 2 kit Saturday.
Nuker-

 

[DanPerryy]

Did you need new hubs?

 

[TheNuker]

Originals had 60k miles, and I wanted to switch to 4 lug as the SS/SC can use these hubs to make wheel choice a million times more options.

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Stage 2 picked up, Car harness installed and finished up the fuel lines and coolant lines. Fuel and coolant added. Fuel pump was kicking on and starter relay was clicking but no starter action.

Go back and look at the power wires going from batter and alternator to the starter solenoid and notice... Him that does not look right.

Ordered a new starter and will try again once it is here.

Second question, What do I do with these parts now on the SS/SC car.

The black hose on the bottom actuator I don't know where it would go now, it is some kind of bypass valve actuator.
Second, The hose connection on the top (covering the blue plug below) used to go to the evap can, Which I don't have anymore. Do I still need this or can I remove it and the connection from the throttle body?

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[JSATX]

Stage 2 picked up, Car harness installed and finished up the fuel lines and coolant lines. Fuel and coolant added. Fuel pump was kicking on and starter relay was clicking but no starter action.

Go back and look at the power wires going from batter and alternator to the starter solenoid and notice... Him that does not look right.

Ordered a new starter and will try again once it is here.

Second question, What do I do with these parts now on the SS/SC car.

The black hose on the bottom actuator I don't know where it would go now, it is some kind of bypass valve actuator.
Second, The hose connection on the top (covering the blue plug below) used to go to the evap can, Which I don't have anymore. Do I still need this or can I remove it and the connection from the throttle body?

Thanks!
Nuker-

I don't know what the item to the left is, just a guess it may have something to do with the supercharger? Because my Saab has a very similar looking valve controlling the waste gate on the turbo. But like I said just a random guess.

As far as the EVAP all that gets removed. I attached a boostgauge to the port where it connected on the intake manifold just for fun. It only shows vacuum right now but I'll need it as soon as I install my turbo...

 

[TheNuker]

Okay, So I can just remove the parts relating to the old evap canister, I will just cap off that port on the TB. That one on the left / bottom with black lines attached goes from the bypass solenoid. I have no idea where the line should run now though nor where it ran before.

Also can someone tell me the size of Banjo fitting I need on the brakes on the front? Is it 7/16" or M10?

Thanks,
Nuker-

 

[Silverback]

Originals had 60k miles, and I wanted to switch to 4 lug as the SS/SC can use these hubs to make wheel choice a million times more options.

What bolt pattern did you go to? I'd like to run 15" Enkei RPF1's on front, but they're only available in 4x100.

 

[TheNuker]

The SS/SC axles will accept the LS/LT 4 lug 4x100 hubs. So that is what I bought.

Nuker-

 

[Silverback]

Good to know - Thanks

 

[TheNuker]

Crap, Apparently I'm incompetent. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the starter....

There is 2 big studs on the starter solenoid, The one that is connected to the starter motor with the wire and the stud with no connection.

So if I remember correctly, the main power wire from the front battery, The thick wire from the alternator and the thick wire that goes to the rear fuse block all connect to the stud with no wire attached from stud to starter motor.

Is this correct, And if not what goes where.

Thanks,
Nuker-

 

[Silverback]

Nuker - PM me

 

[TheNuker]

Someone just make sure my thinking is right.

I should have the main power wire from battery in front, The large wire from the alternator and then the wire from the starter to the rear fuse box/stud all 3 bolted onto the same starter solenoid stud? Right?

Thanks,
Nuker-

 

[Silverback]

I haven't done it yet - but just from looking at the service manual - you should have two connectors with a big hole going to the bigger diameter terminal and the trigger wire with a smaller hole connector going to the smaller terminal. But YMMV. Anyone out there who can take a photo of it?

 

[BAR-AIR]

No you are correct. I did initially have an issue with the three lugs on that stud. The wire lugs that I used were a lot thicker then the OEM lugs. You could also run the main wire all the way back to the fuse block instead of going to the starter then you would only have two lugs on the starter (alternator,and fuse block).

 

[Lonny]

We show how to attach the battery wire to the starter in our assembly videos.
Part 20
Just after 6 minutes in.
Your starter is an earlier model that has a nut holding the trigger wire to the starter. Ours has a plug.

 

[TheNuker]

Okay, Starter is good.

Engine still won't crank. Lights all come on, Fuel pump kicks on. You can hear the relays clicking when you try to start. We jumped the relay for the starter and it does kick on so I know that is good. Switched relays for the starter with no change.

What am I missing here?

No theft lights no engine codes besides the ones we would expect like ABS etc. The starter just won't kick on at all. Verified every ground back to the main ground coming from the battery they are all solid.

Need some help!

Thanks,
Nuker-

Engine does start if starter is jumped. So I'm fighting something else.

 

[TheNuker]

Going to bypass the starter relay with a +12v and engine start button to the starter signal wire. Turn the key to run and push button to start. Hopefully this works.

Just incase, I was able to grab a BCM and ECU from a wrecked cobalt ss with LSJ SC engine for 100$ total. Killer deal. I might try switching those out to see if it starts with key. If not at least I will have an ECU to send in for the core charge in the future.

Nuker-

 

[JSATX]

Going to bypass the starter relay with a +12v and engine start button to the starter signal wire. Turn the key to run and push button to start. Hopefully this works.

Just incase, I was able to grab a BCM and ECU from a wrecked cobalt ss with LSJ SC engine for 100$ total. Killer deal. I might try switching those out to see if it starts with key. If not at least I will have an ECU to send in for the core charge in the future.

Nuker-

That's similar to the problem I had when my CAN wires weren't all connected correctly.

You can't just swap out the computers because they have a specific key tied to them. You'll have to do the cobalt key relearn procedure if you swap one out.