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V1 Nuker's City Goblin build - 2007 SS SC Donor - Completed/Licensed

TheNuker
Well, I think my electrical problems are 100% fixed. I can grab the rear fuse box and shake it around while the engine is idling without any problems.

Going to move forward now and get the floor installed and the rest of the stage 2 parts.

Nuker-
 
TheNuker
Yeah, I cleared the air. Everything is happy now!


Has anyone gone about threading the stock shift knob? I hate slip on shift balls.

Nuker-
 
JSATX
Yeah, I cleared the air. Everything is happy now!


Has anyone gone about threading the stock shift knob? I hate slip on shift balls.

Nuker-

Very cheap threaded shifters are available for the caviler. That's what I'm using
IMG_6992.JPG
 
TheNuker
Okay, I'll give one of those a Shot Justin, thanks~


Is this gap normal? I just want to make sure before torquing the bolt down and spanning it open.

107rwk7.jpg
 
JSATX
The steering rack rod end goes on the bottom of that machined control arm. So probably will have to swap those machines parts to each other side. Notice how the hole for the rod end is cone shaped to mate up with the shaft on the rack tie rod end.
 
TheNuker
Ah, Gotcha. I guess they are on the right sides I just need to turn the rod ends and put them in from the bottom.

On that note, I bought new rod ends because one of the rubber covers on mine is ripped. I and put all of the force I can to get that lock nut to move and it is STUCK! Anyone else have trouble getting these off?

Nuker-
 
TheNuker
I compressed the rear springs, And even with an impact wrench that nut will not come off. Anyone have any other ideas?

Also, Hypothetical situation. Lets say I'm an idiot and forgot to put the clutch hard line in up to this point. I'm guessing I'm just going to need to get a stainless braided line made and run it?

Nuker-
 
JSATX
I compressed the rear springs, And even with an impact wrench that nut will not come off. Anyone have any other ideas?

Also, Hypothetical situation. Lets say I'm an idiot and forgot to put the clutch hard line in up to this point. I'm guessing I'm just going to need to get a stainless braided line made and run it?

Nuker-

Have you put the rear "firewall" panel on yet? If you have than it won't be possible in my opinion. If you haven't than it should work. I had to remove my line and re install it after the engine was in. It was awkward but not impossible.
 
JSATX
Ah, Gotcha. I guess they are on the right sides I just need to turn the rod ends and put them in from the bottom.

On that note, I bought new rod ends because one of the rubber covers on mine is ripped. I and put all of the force I can to get that lock nut to move and it is STUCK! Anyone else have trouble getting these off?

Nuker-

Mine were stuck as well. Hit the nut with a propane torch for about 30 seconds. Try not to heat up the rod. Mine broke loose after that.
 
Lonny
I compressed the rear springs, And even with an impact wrench that nut will not come off. Anyone have any other ideas?

Also, Hypothetical situation. Lets say I'm an idiot and forgot to put the clutch hard line in up to this point. I'm guessing I'm just going to need to get a stainless braided line made and run it?

Nuker-

You may be able to work it into the chassis by straightening the clutch line as necessary and then reforming it by hand after it is installed.
 
TheNuker
Worked for about an hour last night, Finally got the **** nut off the shocks to cut down the spring.

Any advice for getting the front tie rod ends off, I bought new ones as the rubber jackets were ripped on mine. But for the life of me I can't get the **** things to move.

Nuker-

1ilbfs.jpg
 
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