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V1 Orion’s build log - Track Extended - 09 TC/SS built LDK, F40

Orion24

Member
O
*Posting this up on 4/27 as I’m chassis number #427. Nickname Orion

To start this project I purchased a 2009 Cobalt SS with a blown windowed motor. Knowing I needed a new motor I purchased a crate LDK, sourced after market forged rods, pistons, upgraded cams, neutral balance shafts, springs and retainers, ATI damper. Having the long block set and solid for the planned 400-500hp I turned my purchases to a new F40 with LSD and driveshaft shop stage two axles.
The donor has been stripped and organized… other purchases include stage 4 clutch, mounts, assorted gaskets/bolts screws and etc…
I’ll be updating as I get the chassis and start the process.
Goal is to have a reliable 400hp on the street (auto-x) and 500 track (drag). AFR 6758, air to air intercooler
Any help or advice/questions are appreciated!
 
JBINTX
*Posting this up on 4/27 as I’m chassis number #427. Nickname Orion

To start this project I purchased a 2009 Cobalt SS with a blown windowed motor. Knowing I needed a new motor I purchased a crate LDK, sourced after market forged rods, pistons, upgraded cams, neutral balance shafts, springs and retainers, ATI damper. Having the long block set and solid for the planned 400-500hp I turned my purchases to a new F40 with LSD and driveshaft shop stage two axles.
The donor has been stripped and organized… other purchases include stage 4 clutch, mounts, assorted gaskets/bolts screws and etc…
I’ll be updating as I get the chassis and start the process.
Goal is to have a reliable 400hp on the street (auto-x) and 500 track (drag). AFR 6758, air to air intercooler
Any help or advice/questions are appreciated!
Why not air to water intercooler?
I assume you have some plans to manage the heat with that much Hp?
 
O
The overall simplicity of an air to air intercooler appeals to me especially if I can achieve and maintain the desired air intake temperatures. Also decent weight savings, not needing fans or a relay or an expansion tank.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Welcome. Have you had a conversation with Adam yet about making sure the F40 mod is applied to your chassis? I'll assume you know the F40 will not fit into the non-modded engine bay? This will make your Goblin more unique, AZ there are only a handful of Goblins sporting an F40 transmission. And it will handle the HP you plan for without planning to replace your transmission at some point in the future. ;)

BTW, where are you located?
 
O
Yes when you purchase the chassis now they give you the option for the F 40 which I made sure to select….

I had so many different changes of heart before I purchased in the sense of that I want to build an F 35 or buy a bunch of F 23s or just do it right the first time and get the F 40 so I didn’t have to worry about it…

taking into account that F 35s and F-23‘s will only get more and more difficult to source in the future and the F 40 is newer so it will be able to be sourced for longer I opted for this route…
Located in Tampa FL.
 
Rauq
Welcome! Sounds like you've got a clear direction for your build- care to share any other details for your order? Open or full cage? Make sure you update your signature to make sure you get the best input if you ever end up looking for it.
 
OptimizePrime
Solid build list! You'll hit your power numbers without any issue.

Plan to get the ATI Damper machined for the correct interference fit. It's annoying to take this step as it can technically fit on the crank without it but you're in hot water when / if you need to get it back off. Also, while you have the engine apart, look into extending the crank keyway so you can correctly slide the damper onto it. All said and done, I'm not sure the juice is worth the squeeze for these dampers but if you're going full send anyway, might as well!
 
OptimizePrime
Yep, she'll rip!

One thing I didn't see mentioned was Opel Injectors and 3Bar Map sensors. I'd also go for the High Boost WG when you order your 6758. For the main/head bolts, you'll want ARPs.

I used Permatex 'The Right Stuff' gray for my oil pan and it's worked great.

Nice to have's : Forge BPV with correct springs.
 
O
Well she is finally in the garage and the build has started… but a few questions for the experienced guys that have completed or are further along on the build then me…

1. should I get the chassis painted now or should I assemble everything then disassemble to have the parts painted in case I add anything such as gussets supports or additional holes, etc..

2. Speaking of gussets and supports. Has anybody felt the need to add additional pieces for both strength and utilitarianism like harness bar etc. if so some ideas would be nice.
 

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OptimizePrime
Depends on how much of a masochist you are lol If you don't deviate from the standard DF build path it's a safe enough bet you can get away with powdercoating early. If you deviate, like using custom seats and the rails need to be welded and tabs cut or adjust the steering position (or both) or want to weld on tabs for mounting the side panels, weld the shifter plate to strengthen it, weld on a harness bar etc. you'll want to wait.

Outside of the design aesthetic aspect, I haven't felt the need for gussets / support.

If you're going for a gray or black frame, Steel-It is an option many of the guys have used with success. Steel-it is not only cheaper but allows you to weld and touch-up easily.

 
G
If you think you might want/need a proper height harness bar, mock up your seats and get that welded in before painting. The rest depends on how much you think you might want to change. If you own a welder and can weld, you need to spend a lot of time reading through some of the build logs to get some ideas of what you might want to change. If you would have to hire someone to weld parts for you then I would just stop at the harness bar and build it just a DF intended.

Or just choose a color that matches a common rattle can color and fix paint as you go.
 
C
DF sells a pre-cut harness bar for a pretty reasonable price. It will need to be welded in of course, but it's at least already cut and slides in at about the right height. If you're going to track the car, it's my #1 recommendation for a chassis mod. I would personally consider it a necessity.

You asked about painting it, but I would personally powder coat it. I painted mine with an HVLP gun, and I now consider it a mistake. It was horrible painting all those tubes. Sooooo much overspray! soo many runs! soo many light/dry spots!!! It's just impossible to paint that spiderweb of tubes with any accuracy or consistency. Something you could brush on might work better, but it's still going to be a miserable process.

In the end, it turned out pretty well, but it was a ton of work. If I was building another one, i would powder coat it.
 
O
Well, I definitely plan on doing custom seats so I’ll have to do the custom harness bar… beyond that I would like to add a gusset or two in some areas, but nothing crazy. I do know I want to go with a custom steering box and brake reservoir like some of the other guys have had good luck with.. thanks for the recommendation on the steel- it product. That seems promising and I was going to go with a black or silver frame anyway.
 
S
As far as adding gussets go, something like this seems like a no brainer to go ahead and knock out before paint/powder coat.
 
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