V1 PhilthyM's City Goblin #463 - '10 LS Donor

[PhilthyM]

Ask and you shall receive! Thanks Adam and DF for getting these bearing hubs out so quickly. Time to keep moving forward. Almost there….

 

[PhilthyM]

I severely underestimated the task of “removing the ABS plug” from the front hubs. GEEZ. I’ve spent the past 2 hours attempting to cut it out. I’m halfway there (with improper tools of course). It won’t be pretty, but it’ll be done and capped off soon.

 

[snirtman]

I severely underestimated the task of “removing the ABS plug” from the front hubs. GEEZ. I’ve spent the past 2 hours attempting to cut it out. I’m halfway there (with improper tools of course). It won’t be pretty, but it’ll be done and capped off soon.

What is it you're trying to remove? If you got the new front hubs from DF, they should come with an ABS blockoff cover that stays on. Unless you're rigging up something special, the Goblin doesn't have ABS to hook up, so if you're removing the ABS plugs from the front hubs of the Cobalt during disassembly, no need to be careful.

 

[PhilthyM]

What is it you're trying to remove? If you got the new front hubs from DF, they should come with an ABS blockoff cover that stays on. Unless you're rigging up something special, the Goblin doesn't have ABS to hook up, so if you're removing the ABS plugs from the front hubs of the Cobalt during disassembly, no need to be careful.

I did a forum search because when I mounted them up, it didn’t sit flush. The ABS plug was sticking too far out. I came across Adam’s initial post about the bearing hubs and it looks like I was shipped PN 512250 and not PN 512285. The sensor plug was almost in line with the end of the studs on the hub. (I didn’t take any pics at the time before cutting). They wouldn’t fit unless I removed it. Now, they seat properly.

 

[snirtman]

DF sells a 3D printed cap for the back of the hubs. If you get the hubs from DF they should come with the cap pre-installed (mine were, anyway)

 

[PhilthyM]

Mannn, that would’ve been nice! To be fair, these hubs did JUST come in from backorder and maybe they didn’t have time to cap them.

Found the piece that I broke off in the trash. A lot thicker than what you showed me. A little under an inch in size that I had to remove.

 

[snirtman]

Another builder used a Dorman 555-065 freeze plug (if you can't get the DF printed one):

 

[PhilthyM]

Okay, so I have everything mounted up, but now I’m running into an issue when installing the rear brakes. I’ve looked at everyone else’s comments and photos and it seems like my knuckles are designed differently? Maybe because it’s not SS knuckles? Circled in green, the out edge of my knuckle isn’t as recessed as all the photos I see. Circled in red, it also looks like my adapter is too short and doesn’t extend past the area pointed at with the blue arrow. Has anybody had this issue before? Or am I missing something?

 

[Gtstorey]

What exactly is the problem? The pictures don't mean much without something to compare it to.

 

[PhilthyM]

Whoops, you’re right. Here’s a screenshot of what I’ve been seeing, taken from here.

 

[PhilthyM]

What exactly is the problem? The pictures don't mean much without something to compare it to.

The problem I’m having is that I can’t thread the upper bolt into the caliper bracket because the raised edge on my knuckle interferes with lining up the bracket correctly. I hope I’m wording this correctly.

 

[Ross]

Do you have the right parts? I didn't have this issue.
Maybe grind the caliper to clear the bracket?

 

[Gtstorey]

Might be aftermarket knuckles that are a little different. But maybe the adapter is different from SS to base and you received the wrong one. I would check with DF and see if they are different for SS and base. If they aren't it's time to start grinding.

 

[snirtman]

Sounds like you're running into the same problem I had. Discussed in Post #24 in my build log.

 

[PhilthyM]

I’m not sure if I got the wrong parts, but they are identical to what @snirtman received. Looks like I’ll be bringing out the grinder this evening to shave those raised edges off. Thanks!

 

[PhilthyM]

Finally got around to grinding off those edges, so now the brackets fit perfectly. It took a while to figure out, but I found out that those small black plastic rings that come with the rotor hardware goes on the hub to help it mount snugly. Also, since I had the grinder out, it seemed like a good time to go ahead and grind off some of the shifter counterweight.


Got all the rear brake hardware mounted correctly, including the parking brake kit as well (had to purchase new cables). Front brakes went on easily with no fuss. And for the first time in three months, BYE BYE TO THE JACK STANDS!


Oh that was an exciting moment! Man these cars really sit low! My original cobalt tie rods seized up and no amount of force was breaking them loose. On top of that, I really had no more patience with stubborn donor parts. So I just ordered a new set, which arrived in a few days. Then it was on to the alignment….

I’ll admit, I didn’t have the proper tools to start out, so I knew this alignment wouldn’t be of stellar quality; just enough to get out there at 20mph. I loosely followed the instructions from Adam's original post. Handles fairly well until 40mph…. then it’s ENTIRELY TOO SQUIRRELLY. Debating on getting proper tools or locating a shop that can align it right for me.

Registering the Goblin was a very easy process here in Arkansas. After DF sent me the MCO, I took it (along with the cobalt title, bill of sale on parts from DF, and vehicle assessment) down to the Revenue Office (our version of the DMV) and the process was easy. Thanks to @Corey for helping me out, as he went to the same lady a few weeks earlier; and thanks to @Ross for his thread about Arkansas registration.

Getting insurance was a PITA. Almost every company I tried said no, except for Grundy. I’m not exactly happy with the restrictions, but it’s legal insurance for now and it gets me on the road. Also, not bad for full coverage at $381 a year. Just can’t race or drive it to work or anything fun . Cars and Coffee or weekend pleasures, that’s it.

I went BACK to the Revenue Office after signing my insurance policy to show proof, at which time they transferred my old Cobalt plate over to the Goblin for $4.89. Now I’m 100% legal to drive! Still have a long ways to go, but now it’s just minor tweaks to nitpick at. I’m extremely proud of how far I’ve come. April 27th was the first day I started tearing down my donor….and August 4th was the first day the Goblin drove under its own power.

 

[PhilthyM]

Here's a few pics as well of the final results....

 

[Mahkoi]

Love the frame color. I did the string method for alignment and mine is pretty steady at 70-ish mph. I really haven't pushed it higher than 90 tho. Steering wheel return to center still isn't where I'd like it (or maybe just not what I'm used to) but still happy with a car that drives well with no odd tire wear just using a couple pieces of pvc, some fishing line, a ruler and a digital angle finder.

 

[Corey]

My hood is with A2Z paint shop now. Go see Chad or Bailey if you need that resource? They are a couple blocks past the DMV.

 

[PhilthyM]

Love the frame color. I did the string method for alignment and mine is pretty steady at 70-ish mph. I really haven't pushed it higher than 90 tho. Steering wheel return to center still isn't where I'd like it (or maybe just not what I'm used to) but still happy with a car that drives well with no odd tire wear just using a couple pieces of pvc, some fishing line, a ruler and a digital angle finder.

Frame color has grown on me! I thought it was a bit off at first, but it seems to have a certain aurora in the 6pm sunlight….. Sting method is another one that I’ll give a try at this weekend. The OCD in me tells me that I can’t get it perfect without laser machines and the engineer in me says to keep testing and adjusting lol. I saw a YouTube video that briefly discussed this, so I’ll revisit it for reference. Thanks again.