V1 Scotts 2009 SS/TC #478

[Ross]

The starter relay won't click if the engine control module doesn't command it to. This happened to me when data wasn't flowing on the GM high speed LAN wires. Have you pulled the codes from the OBDii port to see if there are any clues there? PS, you can test the relay by just swapping it with another relay in the fuse box.

Inside the transmission bell housing is a clutch pipe that leads to the clutch distribution block. If the top of that is broken.... probably need to pull the engine, and split the transmission off. I doubt you can fix it thru the little black access hole on the side of the transmission, but it is worth a look.

 

[snirtman]

A ground...it's always a ground.

...or the switch on the clutch pedal could be broke/missing/disconnected/misaligned...

 

[Gtstorey]

So you don't think it is the relay?

Probably not but it's not impossible.

 

[DUNE]

They do seem to be main problem causers here. Jumping it confirmed big 12v and output wiring are good. That leaves little 12v (signal), ground, or an actual bad relay as the problem.

This little 12v signal is attached to the starter motor?

 

[DUNE]

The starter relay won't click if the engine control module doesn't command it to. This happened to me when data wasn't flowing on the GM high speed LAN wires. Have you pulled the codes from the OBDii port to see if there are any clues there? PS, you can test the relay by just swapping it with another relay in the fuse box.

Inside the transmission bell housing is a clutch pipe that leads to the clutch distribution block. If the top of that is broken.... probably need to pull the engine, and split the transmission off. I doubt you can fix it thru the little black access hole on the side of the transmission, but it is worth a look.

Yes I did have a couple engine codes. P0807 - Clutch position sensor circuit low voltage. P0238 - MAP sensor signal high voltage abnormality. P0452 - Fuel tank pressure sensor circuit low voltage

 

[Ross]

Well those first 2 OBDii codes probably would stop the ECM from sending a start signal to the relay.

 

[DUNE]

Great news! I replaced the clutch position sensor and now she starts up with out me needing to jump the starter relay! Not only that, but all those three codes have disappeared, now the CEL is only for the missing EVAP system. I checked all my signal, brake and light wires and everything seems to be working excellently. Radiator fan kicks in nicely once engine reaches temp. The only thing is that my engine seems to have more rev hang than usual, not sure if that is just because the axles are disconnected and theres no load on the engine?

Got a couple other things done yesterday night as well. Front suspension is fully hooked up and I believe I did it correctly, feel free to correct me if you notice any issues. Got the subframe, control arms and sway bar installed. The rearmost bolts were pretty difficult to get in properly (especially doing it solo) but I made it work. Once I was done installing the subframe though, I noticed that I had two bolts leftover. Does anyone recall where these were supposed to go? I used the donor bolts to mount the subframe to the engine & chassis

To do's for today include, figuring out how to seal off the hole in the back of the donor axles where the sensor was (thinking of welding a thin metal circle over), figure out how to hook up the manual shift linkage, and decide how I want to do my horn. Did any of you use the DF quick release steering wheel horn or am I better off just hardwiring in a button somewhere?

 

[Ross]

DF sells a 3D printed cap for the back of the axles.

Scott used a Doorman 555-065 freeze plug.

The DF quick release steering wheel horn electrical contacts are the top of 2 bolts (poorly made) and the wire leads to the middle of the steering shaft, so that leads to further engineering to get the wire to the harness. Most of us use a horn button on the dash, but if you engineer a way to the middle of the steering wheel, share it with us!

 

[Gtstorey]

The bolts may be the rear toe rod (steering rack replacement)? The only other place I remember bolts like those are in the front suspension and maybe steering rack.

 

[DUNE]

DF sells a 3D printed cap for the back of the axles.
View attachment 41613

Scott used a Doorman 555-065 freeze plug.
View attachment 41614

The DF quick release steering wheel horn electrical contacts are the top of 2 bolts (poorly made) and the wire leads to the middle of the steering shaft, so that leads to further engineering to get the wire to the harness. Most of us use a horn button on the dash, but if you engineer a way to the middle of the steering wheel, share it with us!

Ok I'll probably go the button route then. Where do you find the horn wires to attach to said button? The ony connectors I have left unaccounted for is a small beige/tan connector with two wires that I thought was for something else

 

[DUNE]

The bolts may be the rear toe rod (steering rack replacement)? The only other place I remember bolts like those are in the front suspension and maybe steering rack.

Forgive me if this is a silly question. What's the difference between a toe and tie rod? And is this toe rod what I've been calling a sway bar?

 

[Gtstorey]

Forgive me if this is a silly question. What's the difference between a toe and tie rod? And is this toe rod what I've been calling a sway bar?

Toe and tie are same thing, at least to me. But the sway bar is different. Toe/Tie rods control the in/out angle of the wheels as viewed from above the car (this angle is toe). In the front, its at each end of the steering rack. Since you moved the wheel knuckles from the front of the car to the back but not the steering rack, DF supplies a bar to replace the rack with toe/tie rods to allow for rear toe adjustment.
Photo in Stage 2 Photos - Google Photos

Sway bar is what you have installed in 3rd picture of post 27.

 

[DUNE]

Toe and tie are same thing, at least to me. But the sway bar is different. Toe/Tie rods control the in/out angle of the wheels as viewed from above the car (this angle is toe). In the front, its at each end of the steering rack. Since you moved the wheel knuckles from the front of the car to the back but not the steering rack, DF supplies a bar to replace the rack with toe/tie rods to allow for rear toe adjustment.
Photo in Stage 2 Photos - Google Photos

Sway bar is what you have installed in 3rd picture of post 27.

Ok then I may not have been shipped that bar. I don't believe I've seen that bar and I've been through all my boxes by this point

 

[snirtman]

Ok then I may not have been shipped that bar. I don't believe I've seen that bar and I've been through all my boxes by this point

The "toe bar" comes from DF as bare steel. Mine is the red bar below the muffler here:

DF also supplies new inner tie rods that you'll thread into the toe bar. The new outer tie rods go up front to the steering rack. For the rear, you'll need to reuse the outer tie rod ends from your donor to attach to the new inner tie rods. One last tip - the toe bar is easy to mount upside down. Note the angle of the gussets in the above photo to get the orientation right. Or, if you stand back and look, the whole tie rod system from wheel to wheel should be basically level.

 

[Ross]

Ok I'll probably go the button route then. Where do you find the horn wires to attach to said button? The ony connectors I have left unaccounted for is a small beige/tan connector with two wires that I thought was for something else

Here are where the horn wires attach to the DF horn button in the middle of the steering wheel. This is the horn connector on the Cobalt harness... just connect J to K to honk the horn.
Scott managed to get the horn button wired to the middle of the steering wheel. Not sure how long it lasted.

 

[Scott #321]

My horn button connection is still working. I did not think the screw connections would last but so far so good. Low amperage makes up for the connections I guess.

 

[DUNE]

The "toe bar" comes from DF as bare steel. Mine is the red bar below the muffler here:

View attachment 41641

DF also supplies new inner tie rods that you'll thread into the toe bar. The new outer tie rods go up front to the steering rack. For the rear, you'll need to reuse the outer tie rod ends from your donor to attach to the new inner tie rods. One last tip - the toe bar is easy to mount upside down. Note the angle of the gussets in the above photo to get the orientation right. Or, if you stand back and look, the whole tie rod system from wheel to wheel should be basically level.

Oh ok I found it now. I had set it aside when the kit came back from paint and forgot about it. Thanks for the tip

 

[DUNE]

Here are where the horn wires attach to the DF horn button in the middle of the steering wheel. This is the horn connector on the Cobalt harness... just connect J to K to honk the horn.
Scott managed to get the horn button wired to the middle of the steering wheel. Not sure how long it lasted.

Man Ross you are a information goldmine aren't you. So I just got to extend my tan wire and a ground to a button then I should be good

 

[Ross]

I'm on the forum because I learn from all you guys. I get to regurgitate other peoples knowledge - It make me look like an information goldmine, just don't look too close, or you will see behind the curtain.

 

[snirtman]

I'm on the forum because I learn from all you guys. I get to regurgitate other peoples knowledge - It make me look like an information goldmine, just don't look too close, or you will see behind the curtain.

I'm with @DUNE on this one - a goldmine for sure. I couldn't have finished my car without your posts and pics! Many thanks!