V1 ToothMagician's Full Cage Country Goblin #493 - '06 SS LSJ Turbo donor

[ToothMagician]

I wonder if D10 is an optional item on the Cobalt.
I couldn't find it on he BCM wiring diagrams.
This diagram says it is "not used"

F2 is the "Instrument cluster lamp supply voltage". Gray wire.

Thanks for the help, im gonna move on from D10 and solder back in F2. I think that'll put me In a good position to move on. I'm sure the daytime running sensor can come out too but I may just wait after the whirlwind of confusion that was last night's wiring session haha

 

[ah.b.normal]

I cannot answer what D10 feeds but it is pink w/ wht stripe, so it is a power feed and I believe the white stripe denotes ign on. Somewhere in electrical service images there is a color chart stating where certain colors and gauges typically source, Batt/ accessory constant hot is typically orange, Battery main power dist, 4*-12* red, ground black all sizes, etc. FYI: Chevy(GM?) taillamp wiring colors have remained unchanged since 1955.(CHMTL excepted)

 

[ToothMagician]

I cannot answer what D10 feeds but it is pink w/ wht stripe, so it is a power feed and I believe the white stripe denotes ign on. Somewhere in electrical service images there is a color chart stating where certain colors and gauges typically source, Batt/ accessory constant hot is typically orange, Battery main power dist, 4*-12* red, ground black all sizes, etc. FYI: Chevy(GM?) taillamp wiring colors have remained unchanged since 1955.(CHMTL excepted)

So most likely the power feed for the radio to come on when the ignition is flipped. Sorry, new too electrical, but F2 is needed I believe since it feeds the Instrument panel lights

 

[ah.b.normal]

Or Amp. Gray has been dash lights since the dawn of time also.

 

[Matt3458]

Yes D10 is what I'm wondering about

Also F2..

D10 feeds the radio and door locks.

 

[Matt3458]

Yes D10 is what I'm wondering about

Also F2..

On mine (supercharged) all but one gray wire was removed. The taped union (S233) is cut out and the wire from F2 was soldered to the wire for the boost gauge.

 

[ToothMagician]

On mine (supercharged) all but one gray wire was removed. The taped union (S233) is cut out and the wire from F2 was soldered to the wire for the boost gauge.
View attachment 43389

This is super helpful. If I have the supercharger harness but the car has been swapped for an aftermarket turbo setup, this would render the boost gauge obsolete correct. I wouldn't have a need for it... right?

This also indicates I can remove the driver information center switch as well, yes?

 

[ah.b.normal]

This is super helpful. If I have the supercharger harness but the car has been swapped for an aftermarket turbo setup, this would render the boost gauge obsolete correct. I wouldn't have a need for it... right?

This also indicates I can remove the driver information center switch as well, yes?

I would think boost is boost. Just how to get it to read your turbo?

 

[ToothMagician]

I would think boost is boost. Just how to get it to read your turbo?

So the boost gauge is aftermarket and only has a vacuum line coming off of it. It was working when I took the car apart.

 

[Ross]

Hook that "vacuum" line up after the turbo, and it will tell you how much vacuum your intake has. Boost too.

 

[ah.b.normal]

I would think boost is boost. Just how to get it to read your turbo?

I didn't actually want to dive into this but here's the deal.(I think!) Boost Gauge is a pressure gauge. It can not "see" different causes of pressure(T/C vs S/C), only pressure VS Ambient labeled as 0.0 PSI. I am fairly sure if you attach the pipe from the back of the gauge to a port on the intake it will read the pressure difference between inside the intake and (approximate) ambient. Please check my ideas as this is my theory and science is very sciencey and doesn't like inaccuracy.

 

[ToothMagician]

Ok so I think the final verdict is that I'm going to extend the grey wire at F2 and cap it off for future use. Then remove the DIC connector and ambient light sensor and connector. Sound good?

 

[ah.b.normal]

Ok so I think the final verdict is that I'm going to extend the grey wire at F2 and cap it off for future use. Then remove the DIC connector and ambient light sensor and connector. Sound good?

I think pic#2 is an aftermarket light of the "bogie"(What the F is that?)variety and possibly of a "N.E.W."(Non Essential Wiring) configuration. Unless someone has jammed a blue cover over the light sensor, it's cover is translucent smoked in appearance.

 

[Ross]

I would keep the driver information center connector. That is part of a goblin, and tells you your engine temperature, mileage, etc.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Hook that "vacuum" line up after the turbo, and it will tell you how much vacuum your intake has. Boost too.

yeah, wha he says.

 

[ToothMagician]

I would keep the driver information center connector. That is part of a goblin, and tells you your engine temperature, mileage, etc.

Whew! Thanks for that!

I think pic#2 is an aftermarket light of the "bogie"(What the F is that?)variety and possibly of a "N.E.W."(Non Essential Wiring) configuration. Unless someone has jammed a blue cover over the light sensor, it's cover is translucent smoked in appearance.

It's definitely modified but I got no idea what it is. I think the connector by it is the boost gauge connector maybe?

The vac line from the boost gauge goes to this boost controller which runs into the turbo so that problem is solved.

 

[ah.b.normal]

You're into turbo stuff now, Terra Incognito for me! Best of luck on that! I'll be watching from the sidelines!

 

[ToothMagician]

I left in the weird little light and 1 remaining wire in the boost gauge. If it ain't broke don't fix it. I did clean up the connections however. Have all the wires labeled for the main connector, no problems there but I do have the twisted tan data wires as well as the boost gauge. They don't go to a display connector, they go to the bcm plug. They're high speed GMLAN serial data (+/-) (1) C5 and C6. I think these should stay...?

Ross, I just found your post about your alldata, I couldn't log in before. Found the connector. Wouldn't mind double checked work however.

 

[Ross]

You now can log in to alldata?
Here is the goblin high speed GMLAN wires.
Here is the Cobalt high speed GMLAN.

 

[ToothMagician]

You now can log in to alldata?
Here is the goblin high speed GMLAN wires.
Here is the Cobalt high speed GMLAN.

Yes, I was looking for a 'sign-up' button before but saw your info in your signature today