V1 ToothMagician's Full Cage Country Goblin #493 - '06 SS LSJ Turbo donor

[Robinjo]

I was told no problem when I asked this question.

 

[Ross]

No harm using an extra heavy wire. I used the leftover wire from thinning my harness... tried to match the wire gauge and color, but couldn't always find the right color. Always used the correct gauge or heavier gauge.

 

[ToothMagician]

I found a twisted black and white wire from the thinned pile that I'm gonna use for the ground extensions and color match best I can for the others from the thinned pile

 

[escapepilot]

The one place I wish I would have done the harness differently is at the BCM connection. It's very tight there and I wish I had about an inch extra. Fitting it before wrapping it completely should let you make small adjustments like that.

 

[Robinjo]

The one place I wish I would have done the harness differently is at the BCM connection. It's very tight there and I wish I had about an inch extra. Fitting it before wrapping it completely should let you make small adjustments like that.

Same for me. One connector to the BCM needed and inch or two extra, it got four-ish.

 

[ah.b.normal]

No harm using an extra heavy wire. I used the leftover wire from thinning my harness... tried to match the wire gauge and color, but couldn't always find the right color. Always used the correct gauge or heavier gauge.

I've been told, in Auto Wiring, that going larger is always better but only about 2 gauges larger. Thinner is a no-no.
Also! Automotive wire only! There is stranded wire out there for other uses but the strand size is very thick, commonly used in 110-220 building wiring. This wire will cause high resistance in a circuit!(and a spot that heats up like a toaster element!)Not the same! Most auto parts stores like NAPA have 10'-15' spools of the proper wire but not many color choices, I feel sure there is an on line company that sells many more colors.
Or you can make a list of changes in color and describe where repairer might encounter these. I usually color dashes on bogies with a Sharpie. Continuity testing is your friend.

 

[Gtstorey]

The real difference on the THNN stranded wire and automotive as far as the diameter of the individual strands is the lesser flexibility and more likely to fatigue and break. You can even use solid copper wire from a current/resistance standpoint. No problems other than connection issues as far as going 2x or more larger.

 

[ah.b.normal]

The real difference on the THNN stranded wire and automotive as far as the diameter of the individual strands is the lesser flexibility and more likely to fatigue and break. You can even use solid copper wire from a current/resistance standpoint. No problems other than connection issues as far as going 2x or more larger.

All I know is every time I've run into repairs done with that stranded 110/220 wire I got burned(literally, I usually found it the hard way, with the skin on my finger tips) because the stuff got hotter than the hubs of hell!
In virtually every case someone had replaced a "fuseable link" wire that burned up with that Construction wire. Now when working on older stuff IF I see "wire nuts", I get cautious! I can understand using it to get home, but if its still there when I'm looking at it, I'm looking at something that has probably been hacked/repaired in multiple spots. Repairs done with bits of Romex really worry me!

 

[ToothMagician]

Sounds like there're some hazards if you dont know your wire types super well, so im gonna use from the tinned pile. I'm also starting to see why you shouldn't wrap the harness. I'm running into a short ground wire on the headlight harness. Looks like it should be 24" and mines 14". Not sure if it'll cause problems in the future as long as i end it in about the same place..any insight?

 

[Gtstorey]

As long as you can make it reach to somewhere you can get a bare spot on the frame(any bolt/screw where you can remove the paint) you can make it work. Of course easy enough to extend later.

 

[Gtstorey]

All I know is every time I've run into repairs done with that stranded 110/220 wire I got burned(literally, I usually found it the hard way, with the skin on my finger tips) because the stuff got hotter than the hubs of hell!
In virtually every case someone had replaced a "fuseable link" wire that burned up with that Construction wire. Now when working on older stuff IF I see "wire nuts", I get cautious! I can understand using it to get home, but if its still there when I'm looking at it, I'm looking at something that has probably been hacked/repaired in multiple spots. Repairs done with bits of Romex really worry me!

I didn't spend a lot of time looking, but I couldn't find a chart that listed amperage of wire by wire type. I think it's very close, if any different, when in similar conditions.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

This chart is from a Ford wiring chart published circa 1970ish. It's most simple one I can find that provides straight forward information for those without a degree in electricity.

 

[ToothMagician]

Been working on the harness, it's been successful so far, I think? Here's the first 2 videos for the main harness:

 

[ToothMagician]

Ok. I'm on video 8 and my dash harness only somewhat resembles the one from the video so, I have some questions. Donor is an '06 SS
I took this as the Amplifier/Stereo connector, but there wasn't anything similar in the video and that area of the harness was thinned almost completely. The thicker pink and thinner pink wires go to the BCM multiplug but are present in the next video when the multiplug is taped together.

The other white/ black stripe and blue wires went to the steering wheel connector. My guess is volume and tune steering wheel buttons? One of the dark green wires went to the low speed data slice and was thinned already in the video before the part about removing the low speed data splice came up. What is this connector and did I mess up by thinning it?


The blue plug was next to this other black/red plug. I have no idea what this is. What is this connector? It has a connection to the grey taped union which I'm unclear on. Does the entire circuit with the grey taped union get thinned?

The other end of the grey union goes to this plug. Which I think is the traction control plug. Looks like someone spliced something into it. Is this the traction control plug?

This is what's left... see any mistakes? Thanks all

 

[Ross]

I also have an 06 LSJ, that I took 2 videos of the wiring harness.

From my build thread index,
Electrical diagrams:
My 2006 LSJ electrical harness videos here.
AllDataDIY Login

 

[ToothMagician]

I also have an 06 LSJ, that I took 2 videos of the wiring harness.

From my build thread index,
Electrical diagrams:
My 2006 LSJ electrical harness videos here.
AllDataDIY Login

Do you happen to have the lower bcm multiplug (from the second photo) info sheet like the other plugs in the video?

 

[Ross]

AllDataDIY will have that. After you log in, choose vehicle (2006 Chevrolet Cobalt), then "diagrams", then "connectors views".
Here is all 4 of the BCM connectors. I think you want C4.
Body Control Module (BCM) - C1 Gray
Body Control Module (BCM) - C2 Gray
Body Control Module (BCM) - C3 Red
Body Control Module (BCM) - C4 Light Gray

But connector views doesn't show where the wires go. If you look closely at the connector, there should be some numbers and letters printed on it. Is D10 the wires you are trying to trace? I am guessing it is D10.

Here is the BCM wiring diagrams.

 

[ToothMagician]

Yes D10 is what I'm wondering about

Also F2..

 

[Ross]

I wonder if D10 is an optional item on the Cobalt.
I couldn't find it on he BCM wiring diagrams.
This diagram says it is "not used"

F2 is the "Instrument cluster lamp supply voltage". Gray wire.

 

[RCK605]

I found that when you have these types of questions it helps to watch the next video or two. A lot of times those questions get answered and everything makes a little more sense.