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V1 TravMac's Extended Track Goblin (#253) - 2007 SS/SC Doner

TravMac
It's been a few months! Hope everyone has been doing well and looking forward to a nice end to the year. Had some time to get decorative work on the car done between work and other projects. Started out with paper templates for side panels, and moved to the more finalized fiberglass. The fiberglass panel may be switched to a thicker plastic sheeting that can be formed/shaped and is more rigid overall. Overall, pretty exciting seeing the final form of my original design! Also got in my new NecksGen neck restraint for the fast driving. Every little bit of safety gear counts!

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Rauq
Looks good, is that the Rev2 Lite? I'm always curious to hear folks' decision criteria, if you're willing to share. I picked up a Schroth SHR Flex and didn't mind it in my drag strip outing.
 
TravMac
Looks good, is that the Rev2 Lite? I'm always curious to hear folks' decision criteria, if you're willing to share. I picked up a Schroth SHR Flex and didn't mind it in my drag strip outing.

Yes, that's it! Honestly, I've been watching them over the last few years through the PRI trade show. It's very minimalist, somewhat adjustable, and light. It is quite comfortable after trying on, and I really enjoy supporting the suppliers that show up at those shows. It's the same reason I went with Kirkey seats - I could test it for myself and talk to the folks who knew their competition the best. While I understand it's a sales pitch to an extent, I enjoy hearing about the product from the actual company. Not to mention they had a show special for a few bucks off!

In all honesty though, being SFI certified with the other options out there, I don't really think there's a "wrong" answer. Many options fall in a similar price point and really come down to a comfort of the user.
 
Rauq
I couldn't tell from the pictures, is that considered a sliding tether? I tried a Zamp with fixed tethers and saw how it can limit lateral motion, which is why I went with the Schroth. I have a bit more lateral freedom to check mirrors now but still feel well constrained.
 
TravMac
It does slide along the rear of the neck support and slide the helmet connection along the tether. So it should allow for good rotation freedom while still having the device secured by the shoulder belts.

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TravMac
Any progress

Oh LOTS of progress. These last few months have been spent doing a lot of little things getting it ready to run. The first autocross in Oscoda for the Saginaw Valley Region is this weekend, so really hoping to run it all out! Update to the build coming later today when I get all my pictures together.
 
TravMac
Alright, as alluded to in my previous post: A LOT has happened in the last few months, at least in my mind. I honestly haven't posted anything as most the updates were small tedious things that I played with for weeks to finally get right. I'm still playing with a few in terms of final "design," but I'll get to that soon. TLDR, fun pictures at end with progress, and it's ready to race!

As for a lot of the little things from the last 5 months, I'll see if I can remember/list them. My last update at the end of 2021 was with body panel design. 5 months later... I'm still playing with it. I never quite settled on a hood, although I had sight lines for what I wanted for weeks (seen in a few attached pictures). However, the side panels I did decide would be made from a thicker plastic ceiling tile material that was easy to heat, bend, and retain a shape. It also was much better to cut/shape than the fiberglass panels I had originally made as templates. I wrapped the inside half in a 3M matte black wrap from amazon. This week, I'm finishing the outside facing part of the panel with a color pattern I have had for weeks from Caleb at Racinggraphics.com. He did a great job with the design, and I'm excited to see it on the side of the car! More pictures to come when it's complete.

Re-routed a bunch of wires/lines to look better (cable management). Doing this with the parking brake cables to clear the 15" wheels was mostly done with zip ties, but I have a Velcro option coming in the mail that should give me a better hold to the car. I cut some "floor mats" from the fake turf from tractor supply to fit in between the tubes on the floor. Kind of fun look to it, and covers the floor from too many scratches of tools being put in and out. Bought and attached a Momo steering wheel with the NRG, SFI rated quick release and short hub for easy entry in the car. The wheel sits a bit close and high for my liking, so might be adjustment in the future. Maybe a different, more flat steering wheel would be better. Also did a but of trimming and drilling to mount a turn buckle connection to my rear wing. It allows me to "make adjustments," whatever that may mean in the future. For now it's locked at 0 degree angle of attack just to have it somewhere. Also final fitted the seats and harnesses, which was a bit of a pain for the work done this last few weeks.

The most recent changes came together fast. Painted and riveted in the firewall behind the seats. Attempted to bleed the brakes, but ran into an issue with the rears not pushing fluid through the master cylinder. After a bench bleed, everything worked well and got every corner locking up on the jack stands. Flashed the car with a base tune from ZZP, although still have plans of dyno and tune with a local friend this summer. Set a base alignment with about 2 degrees of camber, 1 degree toe in in the front, and rears adjusted to neutral toe with no camber adjustment from the strut setup as stock. I do have camber bolts if necessary in the future, but would like to get that adjustable rear suspension once I get a feel for how it all drives.

And that's the last thing... driving! Last weekend we put it on it's feet for the first time and actually ripped it down the road! It's so hard to explain how wild this thing is... it's so low, so stable, so secure. The only "issue" I have right now is with the brakes as it kept jumping between having manual brakes and having power brakes. There's either a vacuum leak, or something else going on, but the manual brakes are still plenty easy to bring it to a halt in a hurry. I'm probably going to make them manual for now and just keep going. I also understand how much it's going to benefit from a brake proportioning valve, so that's on my list to install soon as well. It's also just on rollers in this test run, so the race setup wheels/tires are going to make a huge difference. Can't wait to show you all more in the near future.

In the meantime, the first autocross of the year is this weekend. It's in Oscoda MI, and I plan on trailering there since I'm not yet road ready. I've got a brand new towing setup too thanks to some thieves who stole my suburban earlier this year. I'm nearly all packed already, and excited to see what this thing will do! Wish me luck!

Some pictures to catch up on the big things:
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Also, new tow pig and rig: 2022 Silverado 1500 Z71 Trailboss with a 20' Liberty Car Hauler strapped on the back!
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TravMac
First autocross was a HUGE success! Drove off the trailer and back on after the weekend without a single thing breaking or causing concern. Went up to Oscoda Michigan for a 3 day event: Test and Tune Friday, and races on both Saturday and Sunday. It was wild changes in weather, with storms every evening, but was basically all dry for running through the day for the EM class of the Goblin. Found out a cheap car cover I had was actually water proof and kept the electronics dry. It's the first time I had most the body panels on too, so the car looked nearly complete! Now just need to figure the hood and the last few panels on the bottom row and I'll be done with adding things (for now). Already know a few things I want to change up for next time: mostly different suspension setup. Didn't have a go-pro, but will upload what my friends recorded if I can. This car is rowdy and I love it! Hoosiers would help a ton too... maybe by the end of the year. Next event in 2 weeks!

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G
What cover is that? It looks like it fits pretty well. The material and color looks like the "Rain-X" brand cover I bought years ago that I use on my Vette.
 
TravMac
What cover is that? It looks like it fits pretty well. The material and color looks like the "Rain-X" brand cover I bought years ago that I use on my Vette.

Honestly not sure what it is supposed to fit or what brand it even is. It was laying around as something a friend picked up on sale. It just happened to fit the goblin pretty well. We didn't even think it was water proof, which is why you can see the bags covering most the electronics. It was just a very welcome surprise considering how much it stormed.
 
JBINTX
First autocross was a HUGE success! Drove off the trailer and back on after the weekend without a single thing breaking or causing concern. Went up to Oscoda Michigan for a 3 day event: Test and Tune Friday, and races on both Saturday and Sunday. It was wild changes in weather, with storms every evening, but was basically all dry for running through the day for the EM class of the Goblin. Found out a cheap car cover I had was actually water proof and kept the electronics dry. It's the first time I had most the body panels on too, so the car looked nearly complete! Now just need to figure the hood and the last few panels on the bottom row and I'll be done with adding things (for now). Already know a few things I want to change up for next time: mostly different suspension setup. Didn't have a go-pro, but will upload what my friends recorded if I can. This car is rowdy and I love it! Hoosiers would help a ton too... maybe by the end of the year. Next event in 2 weeks!

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Awesome!!!!!
Yep, rain and the Goblin are not a fun mix..... ;)
 
TravMac
Another great autocross weekend with the car! This week was a 1 day event in the area where I built the car in Midland, MI. The weather mostly held off for my 4 runs in, but had a few sprinkles here and there. The afternoon had a steady downpour after most the runs were done, so the waterproof cover got a test in trailer travel on the way home. Overall, a great weekend!

As for this weeks learnings:
1) Lost fuel pressure a few times in a really long left hand sweeper at the end of the course. Thinking one of those hydromat's is in order for the fuel tank. That... and I probably should not run under 1/4 tank, whatever that really means from the fuel gauge.

2) Coolant overflow for the supercharger wasn't happy with the high-g cornering either. Looking at fitting up another reservoir wouldn't be a bad idea so I'm not trickling coolant anywhere. Luckily it was only on my fuel tank, so easy to catch/clean up.

3) Front right brake continues to lock up before the others. I think it's a testament to my heavy self on the left, and the right being the inherently "light" corner. Maybe I need a passenger! Still, the manual brakes are easy to play with diving into a braking zone, but I know there is more to be had. I also know I should be braking much later in most of these corners too... but haven't brought myself to do it everywhere. Front tire pressure could probably go lower too now that I'm thinking about it.

4) Jam nuts keep coming loose on the front control arms, so probably going to get a little bit of blue loctite. Everything else seems to have held on, even with demolishing a cone or 2.

5) I keep forgetting that having the engine next to your head makes things sound a lot more pronounced. I need to let it run out in the RPMs a lot more before shifting. I found myself in third on one of the straights, but could have probably run second out

6) Duct tape water proofing did a decent job with the few sprinkles we got. Not quite IP67, but good enough!

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Rttoys
You battle rain, we battled 100* weather. :eek: Is that patent pending dash approved duct tape?

yep. Run about half a tank and you should be fine. that’s where I keep mine at. A small passenger helps balance out the car. We have so many people jumping in for rides, it’s hard to tell how the car is going to act, though. Even weirder when we actually run solo. Haha :D

Looks like you are having fun and that’s all that matters.
 
Ross
Congrats on another successful autocross.
A brake controller restricting the front brakes will help prevent tire lockup, by adding more rear braking.
260-12627 - Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valve
Someone here has also posted the 12" long brake lines needed.
 
Robinjo
I had book marked it to use later on my build, originally Scott #321 posted it.

 
Ark :D
Another great autocross weekend with the car! This week was a 1 day event in the area where I built the car in Midland, MI. The weather mostly held off for my 4 runs in, but had a few sprinkles here and there. The afternoon had a steady downpour after most the runs were done, so the waterproof cover got a test in trailer travel on the way home. Overall, a great weekend!

As for this weeks learnings:
1) Lost fuel pressure a few times in a really long left hand sweeper at the end of the course. Thinking one of those hydromat's is in order for the fuel tank. That... and I probably should not run under 1/4 tank, whatever that really means from the fuel gauge.

2) Coolant overflow for the supercharger wasn't happy with the high-g cornering either. Looking at fitting up another reservoir wouldn't be a bad idea so I'm not trickling coolant anywhere. Luckily it was only on my fuel tank, so easy to catch/clean up.

3) Front right brake continues to lock up before the others. I think it's a testament to my heavy self on the left, and the right being the inherently "light" corner. Maybe I need a passenger! Still, the manual brakes are easy to play with diving into a braking zone, but I know there is more to be had. I also know I should be braking much later in most of these corners too... but haven't brought myself to do it everywhere. Front tire pressure could probably go lower too now that I'm thinking about it.

4) Jam nuts keep coming loose on the front control arms, so probably going to get a little bit of blue loctite. Everything else seems to have held on, even with demolishing a cone or 2.

5) I keep forgetting that having the engine next to your head makes things sound a lot more pronounced. I need to let it run out in the RPMs a lot more before shifting. I found myself in third on one of the straights, but could have probably run second out

6) Duct tape water proofing did a decent job with the few sprinkles we got. Not quite IP67, but good enough!

Are your back wheels/tires smaller than your front? If not, that sure is a heck of an optical illusion in your last pic.
 
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TravMac
Oh this thing is a ton of fun Rttoys! I've got a big dumb smile under that helmet with every pass!

For the brakes, I did buy a proportioning valve for the setup, but haven't installed it yet. I'm wondering if I want to try and go with something more aggressive for a rear pad too, but not sure I want to mix and match. On a positive note, the whole set is getting good wear on the rotor for front and rear!

The wheels/tires are actually a square setup - 15x8 wheels wrapped in 225/45 tires. If I've learned anything, it's that the front has lots of grip for turning, but the rear needs more grip. I'm using the whole rear tire which is good, but still a ways to go on the fronts. I think a lot of it will come down to suspension setup, since the initial string measurements are probably a bit off. Also, all the pro class guys that stop to chat say I should ditch the R888Rs for some A7s... Might be looking towards Christmas in July...
 
TravMac
Over the weekend got to diagnose a few issues we were seeing in the log data in autocross (and eventually as an engine code). P1681 and P2135. Thought it was a throttle pedal, but seems it may be the throttle body. Has anyone else dealt with that one yet?

If anyone has a stock SS/SC throttle body laying around, I might buy it off of you! Send a message my way! Otherwise going to order later this week and get that engine the air it wants.
 
Joebob
I had similar issues with my build but got code P2138. I changed the throttle body with no change but it was a non-GM so was worth the change. Most of the research I did led that it is usually a wiring issue or connector issue rather than the pedal or the TB. I did the wiring myself and as I did it inside my house during the winter, I did not want to solder inside so crimp connected and heat shrinked. The sensor wires are very sensitive to any resistance. What solved it for me was to run a new pedal connector with shielded wires through the tunnel and connected them just before the ECM plug. Cleaning all the connectors and ensuring that they are unstressed and corrosion free as well.

Good luck.
 
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