Wheels, tires and brakes.

[JSATX]

My stock 11" fronts and 10" backs single caliper stop me on a dime - no weight - no mass to stop. $1900 is a long way to a turbo or a supercharger. I need to go faster to require me to stop faster!!!

^^^ This.

 

[PG5]

I know, I know, I'm the weirdo that's stuck on brakes. I didn't say the Goblin NEEDS it, I posted just in case someone else wanted to go down this silly path.

 

[JSATX]

I know, I know, I'm the weirdo that's stuck on brakes. I didn't say the Goblin NEEDS it, I posted just in case someone wanted to go down this silly path.

They sure look awesome. For $2k I guess they better.

 

[TheNuker]

I've been super impressed with the stock brakes. I did put some nice power stop brake carbon ceramic pads on them but ****. This sucker stops.

I'm looking at a local place that makes carbon fiber wheels right now, If the price is right I might be able to shave 50lbs of weight off of the rotating mass! Oh boy.

Nuker-

 

[EcoRich]

I'll be going with a good all weather performance tire as I plan to see mostly road use, and occasional stints on wet roads (lets be honest, it will happen).

 

[JSATX]

I've been super impressed with the stock brakes. I did put some nice power stop brake carbon ceramic pads on them but ****. This sucker stops.

I'm looking at a local place that makes carbon fiber wheels right now, If the price is right I might be able to shave 50lbs of weight off of the rotating mass! Oh boy.

Nuker-

Did you have any trouble bleeding the brakes? I'm on round 3 of bleeding battles. About to go buy a pressure bleeding setup and pump a couple gallons of fluid in through the reservoir and see if that knocks it out.

 

[TheNuker]

Did you have any trouble bleeding the brakes? I'm on round 3 of bleeding battles. About to go buy a pressure bleeding setup and pump a couple gallons of fluid in through the reservoir and see if that knocks it out.

Hey Jsatx, No problems. I'm using the motive power bleeder, you pump the reservoir up to 10 PSI and open the bleed valves one at a time.

Also used the same on the clutch.
Nuker-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TK9FE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Dyno man]

My brakes are to good at 90 mph I have to be careful to use light pressure !

 

[Villanova]

My recently built home golf simulators are to good at 90 mph I have to be careful to use light pressure !

I printed these out, thanks for posting!

 

[Andy]

I was planning running konig hypergrams 15x7.5 in the front and 17x8" in the rear. The fronts have a 35mm offset and the reads have 45mm offset. Anyone see any issue with theses? I am pretty set on diameter since I like the look of the car but would like feedback.

 

[Silverback]

My hunch is that you'll be in conflict with the rear struts. Look for something with much less offset if you don't want to use a spacer.

 

[JSATX]

nah that's the same specs as what I'm running except 15x7 not 7.5. You're fine if you don't go over 235 on the rear.

 

[Silverback]

I agree - it can be a tight fit - so it would be great to see everyone chip in on what rear wheel diameter, offset, and tire width works for them. Plus, what clearance to the strut remains for their selection.

 

[Brian74]

It would be great to see everyone chip in on what rear wheel diameter, tire and offset works for them. Plus, what clearance remains for their selection.

Yes, please! I have been wanting to know this as well.

 

[Briann1177]

We use the OEM rear hubs from our donor cobalts as front hubs on our Goblins.
The bolt patterns on the knuckle side are the same for all cobalts. The hubs that have a speed sensor plug will not clear our steering arm.
If someone wants to try using factory ABS and TC they will need steering arms with more clearance.

I'm getting ready to prep my parts so this has me curious. Do I need to somehow remove the VSS connectors on the hubs before they will fit? Or will new connector-less hubs be supplied?

 

[Lonny]

We do not supply bearing hubs with our kits.
You will need to cut/grind off the plastic cover just enough to clear the steering arm.

 

[Bretter]

I am in the midst of what a lot of you have gone through - figuring out wheel/tire combinations that might work. I like the look of 15" on front and 17" on back and we are using the sport model which has the 5x110 lug pattern. I could change to 4x100 to give more options on wheels, but I think I have found what might work:

Front: Konig Control 15x6.5 40mm offset 5x110 with 205/50R15
Rear: Konig Control 17x7 40mm offset 5x110 with 225/45R15

https://konigwheels.com/wheels/main-line-wheels/control/
https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wh...45-17X7ET40&fcl=50mm&wcl=30mm&scl=50mm&sr=0mm

The sidewall height is within 2mm front to rear and the fronts are almost 2" shorter than the rear.

Do you think these will clear the calipers (especially the front) and the suspension elements?

Is there a better combination of wider wheels/tires that people have found?

 

[Tony]

A 40mm offset with wheels that narrow should be no issue clearance wise. FWIW, I have the Controls (in 16") on my DD, pretty happy with them. They aren't super lightweight like some of Konig's flow-formed wheels (Hypergram, Dial-in, etc), but they're hard to beat for the price, and with a non-SS powerplant, 225 should be plenty wide. If you wanted to go wider and still stay reasonably priced, I'd recommend the Konig Oversteer in 16/17 (no 15 unfortunately), though you'll have to have DF re-drill your hubs to 5x114.3.

 

[BAR-AIR]

Here are a couple of photos of the clearances with the calipers. The first two are of the front the rims are Rota Grid V fronts are 15x7 with a 15 offset. I did run into issues with the calipers bottoming out into the rim (ended up grinding the caliper down and then adding 20 mm spacers otherwise it was just to tight). Probably just my rim selection. Also a side note Adam had to remake the front fender mount due to how far my tires actually stick out. Most of the Goblins front rim actually covers the entire front caliper.

This is the photo of the rear again Rota Grid V 15x8 0 offset. Ended up using the same 20mm spacer on the rear in hind sight was really not necessary in the rear.

The only thing that is nice about the spacer in the rear is that it gives you a little more room for the emergency brake. As you can see in the photos no way to run the cable in the up direction just not enough room. (Can't even imagine trying to do that brake with a rim set that has a large offset.

 

[Brian74]

Wouldn't a park lock or line lock work for an e-brake instead of trying to add all of the other hardware?