V1 Traé’s Goblin (06’ SS/SC #501)

[TheAnesthetist]

Was there a mileage limit?

Yeah that's for 1000 miles per year. The next step up is 3,000

 

[Traé]

How pronounced is your supercharger whine?

I’ve been driving around the neighborhood and give her the beans every now and then and I can’t hear it at all. I’ve seen other videos where it is very noticeable. I haven’t done a pull and check if I’m making boost…if that makes a difference. I would think the faster it spins the while would come on gradually.

Things to check??

 

[Joebob]

Check your bypass hoses and valve to ensure that builds boost at high throttle.

 

[Traé]

Check your bypass hoses and valve to ensure that builds boost at high throttle.

I remember cleaning the rust/gunk off the damper and it actuated smoothly. I believe the diaphragm is intact as I had it off and was able to hold suction with my thumb plugging a hole.

That is all controlled by the solenoid, correct? Is there a way to prove the solenoid works correctly? Is it able to be bypassed to see if it makes a difference?

like I said, I haven’t watched the boost gauge, focused on not dying than to look down

 

[Robinjo]

I can’t find a photo on my phone of the bypassed unit by will get a photo later when I get home.

My blower is loud, it makes noise at -5psi. It’s even louder after plugging the noise reduction holes. Those photos are on my computer…..

 

[Traé]

I can’t find a photo on my phone of the bypassed unit by will get a photo later when I get home.

My blower is loud, it makes noise at -5psi. It’s even louder after plugging the noise reduction holes. Those photos are on my computer…..

What did you do to bypass it and what are there any repercussions? I have a 2.8” pulley and don’t want to blow the darn thing up

 

[Ross]

Here is some pics of manually testing if the bypass valve moves correctly. You can put a camera on it, and see if it moves the full range.
How the boost bypass works. My explanation of the boost bypass.

 

[Traé]

Here is some pics of manually testing if the bypass valve moves correctly. You can put a camera on it, and see if it moves the full range.
How the boost bypass works. My explanation of the boost bypass.

Valve and shaft move easily between closed and open. I can close it by pushing on it with my finger. I will try to find time this weekend to take a drive and pay attention to the boost gauge and get a GoPro pointed at the shaft to see if it is actuating.

 

[Robinjo]

Sorry, got back in late and had to deal with the kids. Photos attached.
The top tube of the bypass unit goes to the blower port. The bottom port of the bypass is just open to air. The two lines on the boost sensor loop to each other, left side of second picture (edit: top of picture). The right hand port (edit: bottom of picture) on mine goes to a T, one line to the boost gauge and the other to a port under the Supercharged cover.
Mine makes 15psi in this configuration.

 

[Robinjo]

Now, mine makes a lot more noise than normal because I closed off the silencer holes when I was servicing my unit. I needed new needle bearings so polished the intake from the throttle body, ported (slightly) the in throttle body to blower surface and slightly ported the blower to Laminova core manifold. The silencer holes only purpose is to lower the sound for the everyday consumer. I don't care about that so I want all the supercharger whine.

(These photos are from Rttoys unit.

 

[Traé]

I took off the boost solenoid and am able to blow air through the silver port and out of the top port that connects to the bypass valve. When 9v is applied there is no change, I believe it is bad. Would the solenoid itself keep the bypass valve open and not in boost?

 

[Robinjo]

The kid I bought my donor from told me something on the SC setup failed so he did the bypass. My bypass actually hold pressure when testing out of both ports. So, I’m guessing it’s the solenoid that messed up and he did this routing to ‘fix’ it. Give it a try just to make sure your making boost.

 

[Traé]

The kid I bought my donor from told me something on the SC setup failed so he did the bypass. My bypass actually hold pressure when testing out of both ports. So, I’m guessing it’s the solenoid that messed up and he did this routing to ‘fix’ it. Give it a try just to make sure your making boost.

I’ll bypass the solenoid and see what happens, thanks for the pictures and explanations by the way.
Also, why do you have a T? Do you have a different boost pressure gauge?

 

[Traé]

The kid I bought my donor from told me something on the SC setup failed so he did the bypass. My bypass actually hold pressure when testing out of both ports. So, I’m guessing it’s the solenoid that messed up and he did this routing to ‘fix’ it. Give it a try just to make sure your making boost.

Referencing the electronic boost gauge I was around 3-5psi normal and after the bypass went to around 14ish? I was caught off guard as I have never experienced it under more boost before haha. It definitely did the trick. I will be ordering another solenoid to see if it fixes the issue.

 

[Robinjo]

Great, now you know that it will work and probably what part is malfunctioning.

 

[Robinjo]

Also, why do you have a T? Do you have a different boost pressure gauge?

Yes, my donor did not come with the factory electric gauge. Instead, a mechanical Autometer unit was there and the T feeds a vacuum tube to the mechanical unit.

 

[Traé]

Has anyone found a way to keep the dash lights as bright as they are when you turn the auto headlights “OFF”? I have the wires that fed the dimmer switch soldered together as shown in the wiring harness videos. I was only able to find one thread referencing this from 2+ years ago with no apparent solution.

 

[Markm]

I kept the factory dimmer cause my eyes don’t like excessive ambient light after driving for a while. I’d have to look at the schematics to see what dims the IPC but I’d believe it would be in the bcm

 

[Traé]

I kept the factory dimmer cause my eyes don’t like excessive ambient light after driving for a while. I’d have to look at the schematics to see what dims the IPC but I’d believe it would be in the bcm

I’ll have to see if I threw my dimmer switch out, I may have to get into that connector and see what it does with the wires unhooked. I would think with the headlights turned on and wires soldered together it should be a lot brighter than it is. When I turn the auto headlights off it is an incredible difference in brightness. You can read it very clear in the daytime.

 

[Chris_WNC]

I noticed that the little domed light sensor needs to pretty much be in direct sunlight to do the auto switching. Any bit of shade and it thinks it's pitch black dark outside.