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V1 Scotts 2009 SS/TC #478

S
Did you guys have to do anything special to mount them or do they bolt up nicely as is?
You have to buy a housing of some kind for them, they're just lights. I went with these and welded a 3/8-16 bolt to a piece of tubing to mount it to the tapped whole in the DF frame.
 
DUNE
Did a little bit of damage and spent a lot of money today . Got my parking brake handle cleaned up and prepped for paint, aluminum sleeves bent to fit around the subrframe and now I should just have to paint and install the handle & cables.

In more exciting news though, I pulled the trigger on the 69" NRG carbon wing. Hopefully that'll be in before end of Aug. Now to research more on my wheel & tire setup
 
DUNE
I've got the same or similar. Low beams are pretty dang good. High beams don't add much. I have the yellow LED running as DRL/turn signal and white for parking lights, but I believe with an '09 donor you won't get the same arrangement. '07+ use the high beams at half voltage for DRLs and have a dedicated fuse you can pull to disable, while '06 and earlier run the turn signal high bulbs as DRL. Both use the turn signal low bulbs as parking lights. I'm not sure what your style DRL would do to the high beams in these headlights.
With your setup you're able to have the yellow for turns, white as a DRL, low beam and high beam?
 
Rauq
I 3d printed a mount to adapt from the horizontal bolt at the bottom of the headlight bucket I mounted the light in, to the 3/8-16 vertical bolt into the chassis.
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With your setup you're able to have the yellow for turns, white as a DRL, low beam and high beam?

In daylight (auto headlight sensor says headlights off) on startup the ring is yellow, which is also the turn signal. If I turn the fog lights on (which is how I have my HX fans relay'd on), or if I turn the turn signal stalk to running lights, the ring is white, and the tail lights come on. With the headlights on (low or high beams), the ring is white. In any configuration, if you turn the turn signal one, one side gets the ring flashing yellow. If the white ring were already on, it alternates between white and yellow.

If you wired the same, you wouldn't get the yellow ring upon startup in the daylight, you'd get the high beams PWM'd down to 6v. Or, if you pulled the DRL fuse, you'd get nothing on in the lights. Otherwise functionality is the same.

I can elaborate further if any or all of this doesn't make sense.
 
DUNE
I 3d printed a mount to adapt from the horizontal bolt at the bottom of the headlight bucket I mounted the light in, to the 3/8-16 vertical bolt into the chassis.
View attachment 41897



In daylight (auto headlight sensor says headlights off) on startup the ring is yellow, which is also the turn signal. If I turn the fog lights on (which is how I have my HX fans relay'd on), or if I turn the turn signal stalk to running lights, the ring is white, and the tail lights come on. With the headlights on (low or high beams), the ring is white. In any configuration, if you turn the turn signal one, one side gets the ring flashing yellow. If the white ring were already on, it alternates between white and yellow.

If you wired the same, you wouldn't get the yellow ring upon startup in the daylight, you'd get the high beams PWM'd down to 6v. Or, if you pulled the DRL fuse, you'd get nothing on in the lights. Otherwise functionality is the same.

I can elaborate further if any or all of this doesn't make sense.
Ok please correct me if I say something wrong. In my headlight wiring now I have the following four wires (the colors probably wont match with the wiring videos). I just went and checked them and this is what they do

Black - Ground
Yellow w/ black stripe - Low beam
White w/ brown stripe - Seems to be constant power. Once the key is turned to ACC mode (fuel pump & intercooler pump turn on) this wire has power. Doesn't change no matter what I do with the light spindle. Only turns off when the key is out of ACC mode.
White - Hi beam. Only has power when brights are on

If I connect my Hi/Lo beam and ground wires to their corresponding wires on the headlight and my white w/ brown stripe to the white DRL ring then add signal wire that connects to the Amber should that work? I don't have a voltmeter so I couldn't confirm that the Hi beam went to 6V
 
Rauq
Ok please correct me if I say something wrong. In my headlight wiring now I have the following four wires (the colors probably wont match with the wiring videos). I just went and checked them and this is what they do

Black - Ground
Yellow w/ black stripe - Low beam
White w/ brown stripe - Seems to be constant power. Once the key is turned to ACC mode (fuel pump & intercooler pump turn on) this wire has power. Doesn't change no matter what I do with the light spindle. Only turns off when the key is out of ACC mode.
White - Hi beam. Only has power when brights are on

If I connect my Hi/Lo beam and ground wires to their corresponding wires on the headlight and my white w/ brown stripe to the white DRL ring then add signal wire that connects to the Amber should that work? I don't have a voltmeter so I couldn't confirm that the Hi beam went to 6V
I can't guess at what the white/brown wire would be. I don't know if Canadian Cobalts had different lighting arrangements, I hadn't thought about that before.

But as @Gtstorey said, there's a pretty good chance you'll need a multimeter at some point, so it makes sense to pick one up now and get familiar with it. Doesn't have to be anything fancy.
 
escapepilot
In the 2006 Cobalt, the DRL, parking light, and turn signal are all controlled by the same wire. The white/brown may be only for DRL but verify before adding connectors or soldering. Does it stay constant 12v w/ turn signal on?
 
DUNE
In the 2006 Cobalt, the DRL, parking light, and turn signal are all controlled by the same wire. The white/brown may be only for DRL but verify before adding connectors or soldering. Does it stay constant 12v w/ turn signal on?
I can't say it stays a constant 12v but once I pick up a Voltmeter then I'll check that. All I can see now is that it is under constant power even when the signal is on
 
DUNE
Here are where the horn wires attach to the DF horn button in the middle of the steering wheel. This is the horn connector on the Cobalt harness... just connect J to K to honk the horn.
Scott managed to get the horn button wired to the middle of the steering wheel. Not sure how long it lasted.
I watched your video and grabbed the pic of the clockspring assembly you showed but it doesn't seem to match up with mine. I'll include the pic Ross shared as well as a pic of what mine looks like. Does anyone know which wire would be my horn wire on the TC connector?
 

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DUNE
That connector looks like the turn signal switch. Well that is only true if the LNF cars follow the same convention as the LSJ cars.
View attachment 42085
Ok you're correct, I was looking at the turn signal connector. I rewatched the DF wiring video 8 I believe it was and I saw Lonnie cut out that black clockspring connector, but I found the horn wire with my wires that will connect to the gauge panel cluster of wires. So now all I need to do is find a suitable ground and figure out where I want to mount my horn button.
I'm thinking of putting a switch panel right above the tunnel cap in between driver and passenger. I cant remember who it was, but I remember seeing someone on here doing a really nice job with that. He also had the really nice leather wrapped dash that looked amazing
 
DUNE
Had a lot of stuff happen recently and haven't had the time to make a update for you guys. Here we go

Headlights - I got my 7" LEDs hooked up with a turn signal wire I tapped I to from the mirrors. Got some custom.brackets made so I can mount them properly. Really happy with the result.

Cosmetics - Got my NRG 69" carbon wing installed using the stock DF uprights and some aluminum spacers I got made. Would like to figure out a more permanent solution for mounting in the future. Hood came back from being wrapped satin black and I installed the windshield right away. Will be wrapping the side panels and engine cover myself the same color.

Seats - Got the Corbeau seats fully installed with the 5 point harnesses as well. The 5th point between the legs kept interfering with the bottom of the seats (and I'm not a big fan of them anyway) so I just left it out.

Legal work - Got all lights hooked up with signals, got the horn and hazards hooked up and tested. Booked a saftey inspection for next Tuesday, Aug 29th to see what the car needs to be legalized for Manitoba. Fingers crossed for that
 

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jirwin
Picture of wing spacer? I made a crappy 3D printed spacer I've been running for a few years. I have some ideas for making it fit properly, just wanted to see what you came up with
 
DUNE
Picture of wing spacer? I made a crappy 3D printed spacer I've been running for a few years. I have some ideas for making it fit properly, just wanted to see what you came up with
I'll get you some pictures in a bit, I'm on my way back from my first car show with the Goblin (went amazing). The spacers I used are just 3/4" x 2 3/8" aluminum rods with a hole lathed out for the bolts. I used a bit of a thicker bolt to hopefully make up for extra stress on that joint.

Somehow at this show i diddnt win best in class custom though‍♂️. Maybe next time
 
DUNE
So what did win? Please tell us it wasn't an Ariel Atom. :oops:
A widebody & wrapped Subaru STI... Production cars for the win I guess. Can't lie I'm a bit bummed on that one
Also here's the picture of the wing mount spacers
 

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Desert Sasqwatch
POS Subaru - bought not built - custom in the Ricers minds. Fart cans, obnoxious body work, stupid wheel/tire camber, 1 inch of ground clearance - and don't forget the 90 inch multilevel rear wing. Idiots don't know a true performance custom - built not bought - until it embarrasses them with a fading view of a Goblins tail lights. :p:cool:
 
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