TheNuker
Goblin Guru
Thank you so very much @ctuinstra i owe you a beer next time your up here in KC!
What do you expect from a new engine! Haha
Nuker-
What do you expect from a new engine! Haha
Nuker-
Same coil? I assume so. Try a new set of spark plugs. I've heard they are known to take out coils. I would have assumed only on the secondary side and not the primary side of the coil that you are getting, but it's worth a shot.Whelp not so fast.......
new coil pack worked a couple times and now it’s blown too and the fuse also. Same one.
What the hellllllll
Nuker-
I'm in this camp. I wish I knew the inner working of the coil to and wish I knew exactly what was shorting in the coil to be able to determine how.I'm willing to bet that there is nothing wrong with the ECM. While I don't have a good answer, here are a couple of thoughts. The purple wire has absolutely nothing to do with the INJ fuse. All the purple wire does is transmits the ECM signal to the coil pack to tell it to fire. It's a very low current circuit much like the control side of a relay. When you cut that wire, you basically "unplugged" the coil pack preventing it from firing. Granted, all of the other wires are still plugged in, but I don't think that matters. The only thing that will blow the INJ fuse is too much current through the pink/white wire coming from your fuse box. Why it only does that with coil 1 plugged in is the million dollar question.
Just out of curiosity, can you look at X1/D9 on your fuse box connector and tell me how many wires are in that position?
@ctuinstraI'm willing to bet that there is nothing wrong with the ECM. While I don't have a good answer, here are a couple of thoughts. The purple wire has absolutely nothing to do with the INJ fuse. All the purple wire does is transmits the ECM signal to the coil pack to tell it to fire. It's a very low current circuit much like the control side of a relay. When you cut that wire, you basically "unplugged" the coil pack preventing it from firing. Granted, all of the other wires are still plugged in, but I don't think that matters. The only thing that will blow the INJ fuse is too much current through the pink/white wire coming from your fuse box. Why it only does that with coil 1 plugged in is the million dollar question.
Just out of curiosity, can you look at X1/D9 on your fuse box connector and tell me how many wires are in that position?
The date codes on the 2 denso are about 2 years apart, I would hope its not the same batch at least haha. I think I can switch the wires on the next coil over to the one having an issue. I really hate to keep blowing these 50$ coils though.I can’t speculate because I’m not there, but nothing in the ECM signal supply circuit would cause a coil to blow a fuse. If ohmeter checks are good and engine/frame ground are good, I wouldn’t put it past multiple crap coils. Rare; but they do have bad manufacturing runs. Many of these parts are reboxed crap from the same company. I can set a calender for every 22.5 months that my Saturn VDO cooling fan will fail.
Have you tried swapping coil packs between cylinders yet? Also swap plug wires while you’re at it (if the wire will reach.)
We used to call it Sesame Street diagnostics “Which one of these is not like the other?”
I’ve been in the wiring diagrams a bit as of lately. What specific fuse keeps blowing?The date codes on the 2 denso are about 2 years apart, I would hope its not the same batch at least haha. I think I can switch the wires on the next coil over to the one having an issue. I really hate to keep blowing these 50$ coils though.
I have a totally different brand and the plastic looks different that i'll try tomorrow with the purple wire re-attached. After changing the sparkplug.
I guess I can start first putting my cheap off brand coilpack on the cylinder next to the problem and see what happens with the wire/plug from the problem cylinder. I guess if that does not blow it might be a bad spark plug, Which would be pretty crazy.
When I stuck pins in the ground on all 4 of the coilpack plugs in the wiring harness they had solid grounds to both the head and engine block. I also checked the hot side and I did not have any tone. So I don't think the hot side on the wiring side has any shorts to ground.
Another thing I noticed that I don't even have to try to fire the car to get the fuse/coilpack to blow, I just have to turn the key to the ready position where the fuel pump kicks on. That is enough to see the 15amp fuse flash and pop.
Thanks for everyones thoughts,
Nuker-
This one. It directly powers the all of the coil packs. What's sticking with me now is that he says that it' blows when the ignition is turned on and not even starting the engine.I’ve been in the wiring diagrams a bit as of lately. What specific fuse keeps blowing?