Andy’s Charleston extended City Goblin #308 - 05 SS/SC

Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I think my kit #121 was the first to get a DF parking brake. Those videos were made before DF even offered the parking brake, so that is why they don't mention it in the video.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Andy, your signature says build #303, which brings me to your build thread Goblin #308.
Do you have 2 Goblins? Or is one of these a mistake?
 
andyseavers

andyseavers

Member
Making some progress over the last few weeks. Scrapped the cobalt.
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Frame in place.
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Built the winch system that is recommended in the new videos. Worked like a charm.
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Pulled through.
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Rivets in. I tried to use a hand rivet gun. I couldn’t even get one to pop. Went to Harbor Freight twice today. Pneumatic rivet gun was so incredibly easy.
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andyseavers

andyseavers

Member
Broke this part of the clutch pedal when removing from the dash. In search of a new one. Not sure what this piece is called.
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andyseavers

andyseavers

Member
How do I get the wiring harness through the frame? My goblin is different than the one in the videos. The tunnel came welded closed and the harness is too big to fit through the tunnel because there is a metal divider in the middle of the tunnel. I thought perhaps I could tape down the big pieces, but some of them are far too big to clear that metal piece inside the tunnel.
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G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Any chance the cap was stuck in place and then powder coated? I’ve never heard of DF welding the tunnel cap.
 
Joebob

Joebob

Goblin Guru
andyseavers said:
How do I get the wiring harness through the frame? My goblin is different than the one in the videos. The tunnel came welded closed and the harness is too big to fit through the tunnel because there is a metal divider in the middle of the tunnel. I thought perhaps I could tape down the big pieces, but some of them are far too big to clear that metal piece inside the tunnel.
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View attachment 31958
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That is what I was thinking. my tunnel cap was separate but if yours was placed down on top of the tunnel, it is a tight fit and may feel welded. bad news is that you will need to break the powdercoat and pull the cap off. You will need to run the positive power cable, your wiring harness, brake, vacuum, and coolant lines through there (all on the right side. You might have some explaining as to why your harness through the tunnel is so bulky. It should be about 20-30 small wires and be about 5/8" in diameter. Not he best pictures below, but that is with everything but the Auto trans cable on the left side and the booster vacuum line..
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andyseavers

andyseavers

Member
Gtstorey said:
Any chance the cap was stuck in place and then powder coated? I’ve never heard of DF welding the tunnel cap.
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That’s probably it. I wish they would have included that information when I had it powder coated. It must really be on there tight.
 
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