Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)

[Ark :D]

Video #18 tells you to do it on the front suspension, so I did it on my rear suspension too.

I saw that and I used a limited amount on the stop rings like on the front suspension. I just saw that Karter put it on the inside of the base too, so I was wondering if that's really needed. I might take them apart and apply a limited amount.

I used antiseize on the front and rear, it gets all over the place any time I touch them. I also put it on the nuts that bolt the top to the frame after I stripped one of those off the BC coilover.

That's why I am hesitant to spread a lot on, lol!

 

[JBINTX]

I saw that and I used a limited amount on the stop rings like on the front suspension. I just saw that Karter put it on the inside of the base too, so I was wondering if that's really needed. I might take them apart and apply a limited amount.



That's why I am hesitant to spread a lot on, lol!

I put it on. It is a little messy while handling it. Not so bad after installed though.

 

[MisterDave]

Got some things checked off the list weekend. No pics because boring.

I finished my turbo IC loop. After I connected the loop, I put some coolant in and checked for dribbles up front, under the intercooler. After a minute or two, a drop came out so I emptied the loop back out, took the ports out, applied thread sealant to them, and put them back in. I let it dry overnight, and this morning, I reconnected the loop and tested. No leaks. I left it run for a good 30 minutes, no leaks, so all good.

I think that is the same place I am having a leak. I just got around to taking the ports out to put sealant on them. Are you using the plastic elbow that came with the kit? Is this what you used for sealant?

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I was just about to use it when I noticed that it says "not recommended for plastics or rubbers." I don't know if this really matters since it's not being used at a high pressure. Could you let me know what you used?

 

[Ark :D]

I think that is the same place I am having a leak. I just got around to taking the ports out to put sealant on them. Are you using the plastic elbow that came with the kit? Is this what you used for sealant?

Amazon.com: Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant, 6 ml Tube, Pack of 1: Automotive

Buy Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant, 6 ml Tube, Pack of 1: Adhesives - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I was just about to use it when I noticed that it says "not recommended for plastics or rubbers." I don't know if this really matters since it's not being used at a high pressure. Could you let me know what you used?

Yes, and yes. I noticed AFTER I put it on that it's not recommended for plastics, but by then it was too late. It seems fine though, no leaks, at least for now.

 

[Rttoys]

I didn’t put anti sneeze (that’s what we always called it) on mine, but I fully understand if later I can’t move them, it’s all on me. IF I were to use it though, I would use copper anti sneeze. It doesn’t run like the normal stuff and is “high heat” for whatever reason that being better.

actually on brake pads/caliper mating surfaces, it’s better.

 

[Rttoys]

I think that’s the same thread sealer I used on mine. No problems so far.

 

[Ark :D]

Suddenly, the progress is coming fast now.

Thursday evening, I took the rear coilovers back off and spread some anti-seize in the big tubes at the bottom. Not a whole lot, that **** just gets everywhere. I also noticed a couple drips of something under the engine. UH OH!.... but no worries, I traced it up the side of the engine and discovered one of my brass NPT fittings on the turbo intercooler had a very slow leak. I tightened it just a little further, and no more drips since then.

Last night, I deciphered (I think) the Cobalt's cryptic CHMSL wiring. My cruise control should work once I finish the wiring up for my third brake light. For more on that, look HERE.

Today, I drained the rest of the old transmission fluid (there was not much in there, kinda scary), and refilled it with fresh. It took exactly the two quarts it was supposed to take, so, cool.

Since I received my parking brake hardware for my hybrid bastard of a car, as well as my back wheel spacers, I finished building the rear suspension. I wanted the car on all fours by the end of July, and I met that goal today, though I will obviously have to jack it up a few more times for things like brake pads, alignment, etc.

Can I get some feedback from the experts? Does this all look correct?

Driver's side:



Passenger's side:



Next up:

1. Finish the third brake light wiring (still waiting on a new control box for my wing, but it's coming)
2. Cut my tunnel cover into three sections, de-burr the edges and touch up with my Ford metallic gray touch up paint
3. Finish the gearshift/shifter cables
4. Assemble the parking brake (the paint is drying on it now, forgot to paint it before)
5. Bleed the brakes and clutch
6. Finish cutting my engine cover to fit around the turbo intercooler and piping, and de-burr the edges
7. Sand the hood and engine cover lightly with 220 grit sandpaper, lay out my pattern with painter's tape, and spray
8. Find and buy 5-point harnesses, and mount them
9. Drill the holes for the side panels, wrap them, and mount them
10. Final check for leaks, finishing touches, push-button start, send the BCM off to Odo-Pro for zeroing, etc etc.

And finally, a a visual progress report. The wheels look mean as ****, pardon my language. (Don't mind the stupid-looking turbo loop fill neck, I will be tucking it away at some point)

 

[JBINTX]

brakes look OK. Lines look a little tight. Axles sagging a little with no tires on?

Big spacers on the hubs!!

The loop in the fuel line that runs around the intercooler fill neck - you will want to secure it. Dang thing vibrates all over the place otherwise.

Glad to hear progress is filling up your garage these days!!!!......

 

[Ark :D]

brakes look OK. Lines look a little tight. Axles sagging a little with no tires on?

Big spacers on the hubs!!

The loop in the fuel line that runs around the intercooler fill neck - you will want to secure it. Dang thing vibrates all over the place otherwise.

Glad to hear progress is filling up your garage these days!!!!......

After I set it down, the brake lines loosened up a bit, I think it's fine.

I could have gotten away with 1-inch spacers instead of 1.5-inch, but I have them now. Non-returnable after mounted!

I think one of my finishing touches is going to be to replace the fuel line you're talking about with one that's a little less loopy and stupid. I haven't tried to find a supplier for the ends yet, though.

 

[Ark :D]

Got my brake pads and a gallon of DOT 3 brake fluid this afternoon. The pads went in easy enough. I then attempted to bleed the brakes and it didn't go so well ... I have a bleeder kit from back when I got my first donor in April 2019, but the hoses are 1/4" inside diameter which may have worked for the rear brakes (but didn't, probably my fault), but there's no way it'll work for the front brakes, as the bleeder valve on them is smaller.

Also, my alignment is REALLY F'd, but that'll come later. I might have to get new tie rod ends for the rear, I can't stop them from turning when I try to put the nut on.

Also dove into the parking brake tonight. I took the plastic sheath off the brake handle and primer'd/painted it. The sheath is too bulky to fit well in between my seats so out it goes. Also noticed the assembly is bent a little bit, so I straightened it out with a few wooden blocks and my weight.

 

[Rttoys]

Vacuum bleeder works great if you have an air compressor. Works well on the clutch too.

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ya, that takes a bit to get right, but a few tools makes it easier. Follow the alignment instructions in the steering suspension section.

they are all curved a tad to the pass side, to make it easier to pull from the dr side. I bent mine a little too, but it’s closer to the pass side than I’d like. Luckily my seats clear everything.

 

[Ark :D]

Vacuum bleeder works great if you have an air compressor. Works well on the clutch too.

Amazon.com: Capri Tools CP21029 Vacuum Brake Bleeder : Automotive

Buy Capri Tools CP21029 Vacuum Brake Bleeder: Brake System Bleeding Tools - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

ya, that takes a bit to get right, but a few tools makes it easier. Follow the alignment instructions in the steering suspension section.

they are all curved a tad to the pass side, to make it easier to pull from the dr side. I bent mine a little too, but it’s closer to the pass side than I’d like. Luckily my seats clear everything.

No compressor, unfortunately. I should just get one and be done with it, such a useful thing to have around...

I figured that was the case for the parking brake. My donor was destroyed in the front driver-side corner, but I couldn't see how the parking brake could have been bent. Makes sense.

 

[Ark :D]

Attempted to bleed my brakes and clutch tonight. I think it went ok, but I was expecting a solid flow of brake fluid out of my bleeder valves and didn't get that. Just tons of bubbles. I did all four wheels plus the clutch though, and afterward, there's now pressure on my clutch so it doesn't stay in anymore, and the wheels can't be turned by hand when the brake is applied. Good enough for now, but we'll see what happens once I get the parking brake and shifter in.

 

[jamesm]

Are you bleeding with a vacuum/power bleeder or the old fashioned pedal pump method?

Seems like we ended up having to bleed them the old fashioned way to get them bled good.

 

[Ark :D]

A combination of both. I didn't think it was working so I did it both ways, lol.

 

[jamesm]

You may end up having to bleed them a couple times to get them good and solid.

 

[Rttoys]

Air will work it’s way around over time, so don’t be surprised if you need a quick bleed here or there, here in the beginning.

I did mine with a vac bleeder, with a quick old school bleed at the end with the help from my lovely assistant.

 

[Ark :D]

Sounds good, thanks guys.

 

[Mayor West]

I have a vinyl plotter if you want anything custom made.

I am tempted to do a Calvin peeing on a cobalt decal just because of the absurd kids on the cobalt groups.

I have a Cricut that can cut a max of 12x24, how big is yours?

 

[Rttoys]

I’m game if y’all are game. A PAC-Man black outline (because mine is yellow already) eating a “coyote, hemi and LSx” would be cool on the spark plug cover of mine. I’ll pay for whatever.