Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
Front endplates done. Next, chop the 2nd element and bolt in place.
Yes, I still plan on a hood and bodywork. I should've thrown my template hood on to get a visual with the wing, then taken the pic. I do know I'll have to widen the template around the mount area to the nose. It's close to fitting though.Looks great. Curious how it looks with the hood installed. Or are you not installing a hood?
Your fabrication skills show with your wing mounts, nice job.1 of 2 2nd element installed.
View attachment 27580
What are you using now?Might shift to using this, I like it better than my current solution.
The trailing edge of the uprights measure 28in.Looks like the top yarn is blowing almost straight back, the second yarn down is better at a faster speed. As expected everything below that is all over the map. No surprise there, considering all of the conversation on the forum about the rear wing effectiveness. But your scientific method proves this out. BTW, how tall to the top of the uprights in the video?
Well, superb build here.Ok, they're posted back up. Had some issues trying to get the files uploaded to that post. Could be related to why they went missing in the first place.
Let me know if you were able to download them successfully or not.
Thanks! That street sign vinyl is tuff stuff, it's a pain to get all the adhesive off.Looks good, CJ! I was digging the street sign look though
I thought the other day on your past comment ccanx about toe settings and started checking the rear toe the other day. It was at .5 in. toe out!You can toe in the front to help alleviate some turn in oversteer. You may need a front swaybar to keep the rear inside loaded. I did read a forum where Steve Holscher was able to suspension tune his modified Mr2 to work without swaybars entirely for autocross.
If your interested some information about the setup theory can be found here :https://www.mr2oc.com/threads/sts2-mk1-suspension-setup-w-host-xhead.298272/