Custom STL Files for 3D Printed Goblin Parts

[mbasaraba]

Good Morning! Got a link to this thread from my introduction post and thought I would come say Hello!

If you own a Creality machine or watch Teaching Tech on YouTube you have probably seen my product reviews from him.

PrinterMods

I have seen a few things I will respond to in the thread.

If you are looking for higher temp filaments check out Taulman3D. Their stuff is a bit spendy but they have some that is brutal strong, especially their 645 nylon family that can hold up better that aluminum in a lot of cases. If you are looking for even better strength etc and have direct drive machine check out The Virtual Foundry as they make metal filament for FDM machines. It has to be sintered afterwards (removing the small amount of plastic from the metal portion) and this will cause it to shrink 13-15% but the results are amazing. I have used Bronze and Copper for a couple of years and use a pottery furnace to sinter my parts and they work great. You can get pretty much any metal but other than these 2 you will need inert which requires about $7000-10,000 vacuum furnace (ouch) but that is better than a million $$ EOS.

If people are designing parts and want to move it to metal just let me know! I have a full service CNC shop in my backyard! (This is where I make all my parts I sell on my site) I use SolidWorks so any one using F360 (Oops puked in my mouth just typing that) or other CAD I will need either Parasolid or STP file to make a program to make the parts. I will be the cheapest you will ever find for this type of work, guarantee that!

I have half a dozen machines so if anyone needs something printed just let me know. I don't care about the print time as long as pay for filament and shipping. (I use Simplfy3D Slicer and it tells me material cost when slicing)

 

[OptimizePrime]

Good Morning! Got a link to this thread from my introduction post and thought I would come say Hello!

If you own a Creality machine or watch Teaching Tech on YouTube you have probably seen my product reviews from him.

PrinterMods

I have seen a few things I will respond to in the thread.

If you are looking for higher temp filaments check out Taulman3D. Their stuff is a bit spendy but they have some that is brutal strong, especially their 645 nylon family that can hold up better that aluminum in a lot of cases. If you are looking for even better strength etc and have direct drive machine check out The Virtual Foundry as they make metal filament for FDM machines. It has to be sintered afterwards (removing the small amount of plastic from the metal portion) and this will cause it to shrink 13-15% but the results are amazing. I have used Bronze and Copper for a couple of years and use a pottery furnace to sinter my parts and they work great. You can get pretty much any metal but other than these 2 you will need inert which requires about $7000-10,000 vacuum furnace (ouch) but that is better than a million $$ EOS.

If people are designing parts and want to move it to metal just let me know! I have a full service CNC shop in my backyard! (This is where I make all my parts I sell on my site) I use SolidWorks so any one using F360 (Oops puked in my mouth just typing that) or other CAD I will need either Parasolid or STP file to make a program to make the parts. I will be the cheapest you will ever find for this type of work, guarantee that!

I have half a dozen machines so if anyone needs something printed just let me know. I don't care about the print time as long as pay for filament and shipping. (I use Simplfy3D Slicer and it tells me material cost when slicing)

All I want to know is when you can 3D print aesthetic and functional front aero options?

 

[mbasaraba]

All I want to know is when you can 3D print aesthetic and functional front aero options?

Examples? I have a machine that is 48 x 48 that I built myself a few years ago. I would suggest using the printed piece as a mold and making out of Carbon Fiber though as additive parts just dont hold up well on layer lines for stress. Or even using the printed pieces as a "core" for a layup and leaving it inside.

 

[r3drckt]

Front splitter that is aesthetically pleasing and functional at the same time. The 9LR one is functional and strong, but it's a bit of an eye sore for a lot of us. Me personally, something that's more F1 in style would be cool I feel.

 

[mbasaraba]

Thought you guys might find this interesting. This is my latest upgrade product. Working on making them compatible with more machines, like Prusa, but it already fits a wide range.

This was my Kickstarter and we have them ready to pack so we will be going retail soon.

PrinterMods XChange System

 

[Mayor West]

Good Morning! Got a link to this thread from my introduction post and thought I would come say Hello!

If you own a Creality machine or watch Teaching Tech on YouTube you have probably seen my product reviews from him.

PrinterMods

I have seen a few things I will respond to in the thread.

If you are looking for higher temp filaments check out Taulman3D. Their stuff is a bit spendy but they have some that is brutal strong, especially their 645 nylon family that can hold up better that aluminum in a lot of cases. If you are looking for even better strength etc and have direct drive machine check out The Virtual Foundry as they make metal filament for FDM machines. It has to be sintered afterwards (removing the small amount of plastic from the metal portion) and this will cause it to shrink 13-15% but the results are amazing. I have used Bronze and Copper for a couple of years and use a pottery furnace to sinter my parts and they work great. You can get pretty much any metal but other than these 2 you will need inert which requires about $7000-10,000 vacuum furnace (ouch) but that is better than a million $$ EOS.

If people are designing parts and want to move it to metal just let me know! I have a full service CNC shop in my backyard! (This is where I make all my parts I sell on my site) I use SolidWorks so any one using F360 (Oops puked in my mouth just typing that) or other CAD I will need either Parasolid or STP file to make a program to make the parts. I will be the cheapest you will ever find for this type of work, guarantee that!

I have half a dozen machines so if anyone needs something printed just let me know. I don't care about the print time as long as pay for filament and shipping. (I use Simplfy3D Slicer and it tells me material cost when slicing)

Hey, I like you. Thanks for adding your thoughts. I appreciate you putting your machines up for discounted use, that's awesome.

QQ: If I wanted to have something done via CNC, what modeling techniques/style/etc make that easiest for you (or anyone with CNC router)? I use F360 because this isn't my day job and it's free for personal use, but I'm always open to new tools as well.

I've never made something that was then cut in CNC so I have 0% familiarity with the process, but I would love to adapt my models for those to have cut out of metal... plus there's probably a lot of stuff that I'd love to have CNC'd.

Will definitely keep in touch.

 

[Corgithulhu]

Hey, I like you. Thanks for adding your thoughts. I appreciate you putting your machines up for discounted use, that's awesome.

QQ: If I wanted to have something done via CNC, what modeling techniques/style/etc make that easiest for you (or anyone with CNC router)? I use F360 because this isn't my day job and it's free for personal use, but I'm always open to new tools as well.

I've never made something that was then cut in CNC so I have 0% familiarity with the process, but I would love to adapt my models for those to have cut out of metal... plus there's probably a lot of stuff that I'd love to have CNC'd.

Will definitely keep in touch.

This is relevant to my interests. I've made countless 3D printed parts in F360 for personal projects, but never anything too large scale and also never CNC'd anything. I have looked into the CNC side of F360, but it's fairly daunting to me so I shied away.

 

[jamesm]

I will tell you from experience, it's very, VERY easy to design a part that you can easily 3d print that's nearly impossible to make on a CNC mill.

When you are designing the part, think about it in terms of the necessary operations needed to make the part. What needs roughed out? What needs drilled? What needs threaded? Chamfered? Beveled? Most all of those operations need a tool change and sometimes a fixture change.

 

[speedhacks]

4x100 brake rotor hub rings here

 

[Brian74]

Oh ****. I finally found the 3D printer nerd thread, lol. I just got started last month running an Ender 5 Pro. Working my way towards printing ASA full-time; just not quite ready to install my printer upgrades yet.

 

[OptimizePrime]

Oh ****. I finally found the 3D printer nerd thread, lol. I just got started last month running an Ender 5 Pro. Working my way towards printing ASA full-time; just not quite ready to install my printer upgrades yet.

We've been expecting you

 

[Rauq]

Rabbit hole? What rabbit hole?!

Checked in on my print just now...

 

[Corgithulhu]

Rabbit hole? What rabbit hole?!

Checked in on my print just now...
View attachment 27094

Ah, I see you made your regular sacrifice to conjure the spaghetti monster. Octoprint was my friend when I worked in the office so that I could remotely kill these before they became bed-sized bird nests. Nothing like proudly boasting that you're making something cool to coworkers, then bring it up and they see your sad print flopped on its side and the nozzle ejecting chaos.

On topic for this thread - I'm getting some quick-release fasteners that I plan to use instead of the hood bolts at the dash area in conjunction with hinges at the front. I'll need to come up with some 3D printed brackets which I will show here if all goes well. My goal is to have tool-free opening of the hood.

 

[OptimizePrime]

On topic for this thread - I'm getting some quick-release fasteners that I plan to use instead of the hood bolts at the dash area in conjunction with hinges at the front. I'll need to come up with some 3D printed brackets which I will show here if all goes well. My goal is to have tool-free opening of the hood.

I know this is off topic, but this may tickle your pickle.

VTurboWay 4 Pack Quick Release Pin 1/4" Diameter w/Drop Cam & Spring, Usable Length 0.9", Full 316 Stainless Steel, Bimini Top Pin, Marine Hardware, All Parts are Made of 316 Stainless Steel: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

VTurboWay 4 Pack Quick Release Pin 1/4" Diameter w/Drop Cam & Spring, Usable Length 0.9", Full 316 Stainless Steel, Bimini Top Pin, Marine Hardware, All Parts are Made of 316 Stainless Steel: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[Corgithulhu]

I saw those, and strongly considered them (I even have a little box of random springs that could beef up how hard it holds), but I went with those push button fasteners that hold onto a threaded stud with a ball on the end. I found a pair on Amazon for like 13 bucks (ASIN B07SKM8LLX). I'll put the button facing down and design up some 3D printed brackets to attach to them to the factory hood bolt tabs. It will stand the hood up an inch or two from normal, but I like that anyways.

 

[Chubbs]

Rather than leeching off the forums, I actually have something to contribute this time!

#1, wire protector for the steering column. For anyone that wants to use their horn button on their steering wheel, you need to run wires to it. They get snagged by the turn signal cancelling mechanism, and severed. Worse, when they are severed, they complete the horn circuit and your horn blares constantly in the highway patrol inspection station parking lot, while you frantically try to yank on wires to get it to STFU. Ask me how I know....


#2, my dash panel button bezel. This was made specifically for 19mm buttons commonly available on Ebay. Mine are lighted and labeled. See link:

19mm 12V Black Stainless Metal LED Push Button Switch Customizable Marine Boat | eBay

And 12V!

www.ebay.com

I am a huge fan of these buttons. The lighting looks nice, they are reasonably cheap, and they have a nice positive "click" when depressed. The tactile feel is great. There is an additional hole on the left mount that's larger for a 12v power port.

#3, my gauge cluster. Keep in mind, this was made specifically for my car, so I'm not sure how well it would work for others. I have a boost gauge, the Interceptor scan gauge, and then an AEM 4110 A/F ratio gauge. All 3 gauges are just slightly different sizes, so if you have different brands of gauges, you'll have to scale the holes accordingly.

The parts were all made in Sketchup, but for some reason I can't upload the .SKP files. Only the .STL (which may be more useful anyway). If anyone needs the sketchup files let me know and I'll email them.

 

[jamesm]

#1, wire protector for the steering column. For anyone that wants to use their horn button on their steering wheel, you need to run wires to it. They get snagged by the turn signal cancelling mechanism, and severed. Worse, when they are severed, they complete the horn circuit and your horn blares constantly in the highway patrol inspection station parking lot, while you frantically try to yank on wires to get it to STFU. Ask me how I know....

I def printing a wire protector this weekend.

I feel your pain on the horn… I has the wire get caught when I was about halfway through a lap at an autocross….

 

[Chubbs]

That steering protector will at least keep them from getting cut by the spinning metal bits on the column. But with regular wires, they will still snag a bit. I tried and tried to zip tie and tape them up, but they always snag somehow. A clock spring would be best, but not really compatible with most racing style steering wheels.

I ended up cannibalizing an old coiled cord from a cell phone charger (think 1990's bag phone). It was thickly insulated, and with the coil, it works great. No more snagging, and definitely no more cutting. Highly recommended if you can find a coiled 2-conductor cord.

 

[Rauq]

Most of the info on this lil guy here. Feel free to criticize!

I printed the original with PLA and it held up for the most part, but warped a bit (albeit out of sight) after driving through a rainstorm. I've since reprinted with PETG. I make no guarantees but it's been a solid install on my car using the steering column bearing mount bolts and sits right up under the hood, and also has a spot for the ambient light sensor (have to snip a tab off of it first). Printed with standard Cura settings, 20% infill, 4 walls, 0.2mm layers.

 

[Brian74]

Most of the info on this lil guy here. Feel free to criticize!

I printed the original with PLA and it held up for the most part, but warped a bit (albeit out of sight) after driving through a rainstorm. I've since reprinted with PETG. I make no guarantees but it's been a solid install on my car using the steering column bearing mount bolts and sits right up under the hood, and also has a spot for the ambient light sensor (have to snip a tab off of it first). Printed with standard Cura settings, 20% infill, 4 walls, 0.2mm layers.

Have you tried printing with ASA yet? I actually find it prints much better than PETG, once you get your temps set JUST right. Temp range is much narrower…. But it cools/hardens at a faster rate than PETG and hardly strings at all, bridges well, and isn’t nearly as picky about retraction settings.

I do my ASA in a ventilated enclosure using an active vent system that I designed; although I haven’t noticed the fumes even being that noticeable.