Custom STL Files for 3D Printed Goblin Parts
- Thread starter Mayor West
- Start date
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Those look a great deal larger than the 19mm you told me originally. I could have actually made them sized to fit otherwise. Glad they work.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Yeah, I didn't have them yet and was just going by the specs I could find at the time. I think the 19mm is the literal diameter of the tweeter, inside the plastic casing, which itself fits into the cups I have bonded to the bracket you designed. Regardless, it'll work just fine.
Corgithulhu
Well-Known Member
What material do you use for 3D printing these parts? I have two hobby-grade printers myself, but I only like how PLA prints so far. PETG was too stringy. I know that PLA isn't great for enduring outdoors environments, though. I have only tried doing ABS on my Hypercube once, but it's got a 12V bed that threw a runaway alarm before getting hot enough since it was taking so long, so I haven't tried since.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
I yried a couple different brands and have settled on using Zyltech black PETG and I've been pretty happy with it. Running it 246C with no cooling fan. It can be a little stringy at times. If it does get stringy on certain prints I then turn on the cooling as slow as I can get it to spin. Otherwise I'd start getting layer adhesion issues.
Do you have an all metal hotend installed?
Do you have an all metal hotend installed?
Corgithulhu
Well-Known Member
I am definitely not ruling out the material brand I used as being the culprit. The Hypercube has an all-metal hotend, but I was using an Ender 3 for the PETG a long time ago, and it does not/did not have an all metal hotend. IIRC I ran it at 235C per the instructions for that material, and I remember thinking how close I was getting to the TFE bowden tube insert's temp limit with PETG.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
Not sure if you've already done this, but try printing a temp tower using a higher heat range. Starting at 240 going to 260 on your Hypercube and see if it improves at all.
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
I used regular PLA for my license plate bracket, switch panel, and some adapter rings for bar end mirrors on one of my motorcycles. The license plate mount is a little close to the exhaust and appears to have deformed a little bit, but it's still holding up. When I re-print it, I will try PETG.
Printer setup is an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed, direct drive extruder, stock hotend, and SKR mini E3 V1.2 main board.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
My buddy was going to mil this for me and asked if you have it on a DXF file?
I
I do not unfortunately. I’m still learning my way through solidworks so this was created in a free, elementary level online program and then exported from there. I’m probably going to remake this in solidworks so I can do the exports in different formats for stuff like this. Not everyone uses what I had exported in
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
Ok thanks.
Corgithulhu
Well-Known Member
You may want to send him the ZIP file anyways. It has a few different file types of 3D model, and his software may be compliant enough with one of the file types that it can import it.
Corgithulhu
Well-Known Member
It would highly depend on the material. If you mean on the nose like those NACA ducts on either side of the radiator opening, something like ABS should hold up fine. PLA, the most common hobby-level plastic for 3D printing, would probably get soft or deform as the car spends more and more time in the sunlight.
If you mean something like a shroud around the engine intake, the engine heat would almost certainly soften PLA in short time. ABS would probably hold up longer. The parts may also be too big for a lot of printers to make in one piece, so you'd be more limited as to who can print it. Most home printers don't go much over about 9 inches in any dimension (some go taller or longer/wider, but that's more rare).
If you mean something like a shroud around the engine intake, the engine heat would almost certainly soften PLA in short time. ABS would probably hold up longer. The parts may also be too big for a lot of printers to make in one piece, so you'd be more limited as to who can print it. Most home printers don't go much over about 9 inches in any dimension (some go taller or longer/wider, but that's more rare).
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
Not sure of what part or area your referring to? Are you thinking of an airbox?
See if you can grab a pic and mark it up to show the area your talking about.
If it is a high heat area, a 3d printed mold can be made to create the part in fiberglass or carbon fiber.
Bajakid1450
Well-Known Member
Could you make me one if your printer is up and running again?
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
I’ve mainly stopped printing for other folks because businesses online can print and ship for cheaper than I can justify doing.
I’d go with the website @Ark :D uses, they appear to be decently priced and fast. (I forget the name of the company and I don’t want to search lol, @Ark :D this is where you come in)