Deviant Goblin - Extended Track #373 | 07 SS/SC donor

devianteng

Well-Known Member
March 14, 2023
Got ball joints mounted on the LCAs, and got the LCAs on the Goblin. Seem to have lost one of the leading bushing bolts, so will have to find a replacement. Nothing else really done, but got a couple pictures to share.

151.jpg152.jpg153.jpg154.jpg
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Good thing with a non-LNF build is you can use any non-LNF knuckles including base model, so they're pretty easy to come by in junkyards as well if it comes to that.
Nice information to have for the future, for all of us (me included) that didn't have this.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Moreover, you can use any non-LNF knuckles in an LNF build, so long as you account for it with the correct LCA's and parking brake parts from DF. Getting LNF knuckles and LNF LCA's is much more difficult than getting non-LNF parts.
 

devianteng

Well-Known Member
March 26, 2023
This update covers the past week or so, about 8 hours of work. Got my rear end together (knuckles, hubs, suspension, tie rods, rotors, calipers, brake lines, etc), and had a bit of fighting with the rear brake setup but finally got it figured out. The caliper guide pin bracket would not fit on the DF provided aluminum spacer, and I ended up having to shave a little off of that guide pin bracket, and on the passenger side add a washer to space the rotor evenly in that bracket. Still need to hook up the parking brake cables, but waiting on a new parking brake lever assembly to show up.
Also got my front end together (uprights, hubs, suspension, steering tie rods, rotors, calipers, brake lines, etc). All went smooth on the front.

More exciting, I got my wheels/tires mounted and balanced, and mounted on the car. Lowered the car on the ground for the first time ever and she rolls smoothly. She'll be back in the air on the QuickJacks soon enough, but it was exciting to see the car on the ground.

What's next? A lot. Heat exchanger cooling loop, fuel tank vent tee, brake proportioning kit, fill/bleed brakes, rear firewall, tunnel cap, shifter and cables, parking brake and cables, button panel, order and mount seats, footwell/hood/windscreen (once they arrive), order and mount head/tail lights and turn signal mirrors...so much to do, but it's starting to look like a drivable vehicle!

155.jpg156.jpg157.jpg158.jpg159.jpg160.jpg161.jpg162.jpg163.JPG164.jpg165.jpg166.jpg167.jpg168.jpg169.jpg170.jpg171.jpg
 

devianteng

Well-Known Member
April 05, 2023
Progress is slow, but it's moving forward. Got my brake proportioning kit in and installed, installed the brake reservoir relocation kit (new reservoir, -4AN fittings and braided lines). Sent off my BCM to Odo-Pro.com to have it reprogrammed to 0 miles, ordered and received my parking brake lever assembly (old one was rough) and got it painted black. New parking brake cables should be here later this week. Ordered some M3 aluminum rivnuts and started drilling the tunnel to take M3 screws to mount the cap. Shifter installed on the tunnel cap. Decided to give the Kirkey Series 55 20" seat a try, so ordered one of those and the driver side Planted seat bracket. Still waiting on the bracket, but got the seat and it at least fits between the tunnel and the sides. Seat bracket should raise it up some and give a slightly better fit, but need to wait on the seat bracket to fully understand fitment.

Hoping later this week to add brake fluid (DOT4) and bleed the brakes, get the shifter cables installed and hoses in for the heat exchanger and close up the tunnel. By that point I should be able to move the car under it's own power. Still have a list of stuff to do, but I feel like I'm getting real close to calling this an actual car and starting the registration process!Cost wise, I'm about $650 under $25k, and I expect I'll go passed that after buying my other seat, covers, and harnesses. My goal was $25k for a "most everything new" setup, and I've really spared no expense so far, so I'm happy with where my budget it. Once I mod for performance, my goal was under $30k so I'll have around $5k for either TVS swap, or s252/s257 setup. :D

Still to do to be roadworthy:
  • Brakes
    • Install Parking Brake lever and cables
    • Fill and bleed brakes/clutch lines
  • Tunnel Cap
    • Finish drilling and installing M3 rivnuts in tunnel, drill/clean tunnel cap holes
    • Run shifter cables and heat exchanger lines
    • Close up tunnel
  • Fuel System
    • Install filler neck vent line
  • Engine
    • Setup vacuum lines and boost control solenoid
    • Wait for the return of my BCM from Odo-Pro
    • Mount heat exchanger and plumb; 3/4" hose for loop, with a 1/2" Tee for line to expansion tank; make bracket and mount expansion tank
    • Prep and paint muffler and header (prime and paint, high temp)
    • Receive and install intake coupler and MAF tube
  • Body
    • Paint and rivet on rear firewall (buy more 3M Windo-Weld, 08609)
    • Paint and install passenger footwell plate
    • Receive and install footwell cover, hood, and extended windscreen
  • Seating
    • Wait for and confirm fitment with Planted bracket; If all is good, other passenger seat and bracket
    • Pick and order 5 point harnesses
    • Mount seats and harnesses
  • Electrical
    • Pick and order head lights, tail lights, mirrors w/turn signal; install
    • Install license plate light mount kit
    • Receive and mount button panel
  • Other
    • Alignment
172.jpg173.jpg174.jpg175.jpg176.jpg177.jpg178.jpg179.jpg
 

devianteng

Well-Known Member
April 10, 2023
As they say, the last 10% of anything takes 90% of the time.
Received only one parking brake cable, instead of two. The second one will be here soon, then I can get the cables run and connected. Parking brake lever trimmed, cleaned up, painted, and installed. Filled and bleed brakes and clutch line, all feels good there. Swapped over to M5 rivnuts for the tunnel, and got those drilled out and set. Connected shift cables to shifter and trans, and set in h/e coolant lines in tunnel. Installed all 3 tunnel cap pieces with M5x12mm torx bolts. Painted one side of firewall panel (truck bed liner), and will paint the other side soon, then rivet on. Started making bracket for my h/e loop coolant tank. Planted seat bracket will be here this week, so can do proper test fitment for my seat and either order a second Kirkey 55, or switch to the 18.5" Kirkey 65.
If all goes well, and my BCM returns from Odo-Pro by Friday of this week, I may get to do my first "drive" this coming weekend. Still waiting for my hood/windscreen to ship from DF, which is required in order to pass inspection in KY. Hoping to start my registration with the state of KY by the start of May and be street legal in June.

To-Do:
  • Brakes
    • Install Parking Brake lever and cables
    • Fill and bleed brakes/clutch lines
  • Tunnel Cap
    • Finish drilling and installing M5 rivnuts in tunnel, drill/clean tunnel cap holes
    • Run shifter cables and heat exchanger lines
    • Close up tunnel
  • Fuel System
    • Install filler neck vent line
  • Engine
    • Setup vacuum lines and boost control solenoid
    • Wait for the return of my BCM from Odo-Pro
    • Mount heat exchanger and plumb; 3/4" hose for loop, with a 1/2" Tee for line to expansion tank; make bracket and mount expansion tank
    • Prep and paint muffler and header (prime and paint, high temp)
    • Receive and install intake coupler and MAF tube
  • Body
    • Paint and rivet on rear firewall (buy more 3M Windo-Weld, 08609)
    • Paint and install passenger footwell plate
    • Receive and install footwell cover, hood, and extended windscreen
  • Seating
    • Wait for and confirm fitment with Planted bracket; If all is good, other passenger seat and bracket
    • Pick and order 5 point harnesses
    • Mount seats and harnesses
  • Electrical
    • Pick and order head lights, tail lights, mirrors w/turn signal; install
    • Install license plate light mount kit
    • Receive and mount button panel
  • Other
    • Alignment
180.jpg181.jpg
 
Last edited:

devianteng

Well-Known Member
April 14, 2023
Parking brake cables installed, and verified working. Reassembled the brake reservoir system to fix a slight leak I had, and that seems resolved. Rear firewall painted and riveted on. Passenger footwell plate painted and ready for install. BCM returned from Odo-Pro and validated milage reset correctly to 0. Also went and picked up my crate from DF yesterday, from a local-ish YRC hub -- I now have my hood, windshield, footwell cover, and a few little things missing from my stage 2.
I received a package from Planted earlier this week, but they sent the wrong bracket (what I got was for a Miata). Emailed same day and got a response, next morning the correct bracket was shipped out and received yesterday. Also ordered a single harness set to test fit with seat and bracket, so fingers crossed all lines up well.
Hope to get a lot done this weekend, and maybe move the car under it's own power for the first time!

To-Do:
  • Brakes
    • Install Parking Brake lever and cables
    • Fill and bleed brakes/clutch lines
  • Tunnel Cap
    • Finish drilling and installing M5 rivnuts in tunnel, drill/clean tunnel cap holes
    • Run shifter cables and heat exchanger lines
    • Close up tunnel
  • Fuel System
    • Install filler neck vent line
  • Engine
    • Setup vacuum lines and boost control solenoid
    • Wait for the return of my BCM from Odo-Pro
    • Mount heat exchanger and plumb; 3/4" hose for loop, with a 1/2" Tee for line to expansion tank; make bracket and mount expansion tank
    • Receive and install intake coupler and MAF tube
  • Body
    • Paint and rivet on rear firewall
    • Paint and install passenger footwell plate
    • Receive and install footwell cover, hood, and extended windscreen
  • Seating
    • Wait for and confirm fitment with Planted bracket; If all is good, other passenger seat and bracket
    • Pick and order 5 point harnesses
    • Mount seats and harnesses
  • Electrical
    • Pick and order head lights, tail lights, mirrors w/turn signal; install
    • Install license plate light mount kit
    • Receive and mount button panel
  • Other
    • Alignment
 

devianteng

Well-Known Member
April 24, 2023
I'm behind on sharing updates, but I've been trying to finish up a lot of little things. Modified the Planted seat bracket and got it mounted; stacked 2 1/4" aluminum bars as spacers, drilled holes in the bracket and rivnuts in the frame. Also cut off the seatbelt hole on the Planted bracket, as I don't need it and it got in the way of the Kirkey seat.
Also painted up some remaining brackets (boost gauge, heat exchanger brackets, and battery hold down). More importantly, the car moved under it's own power for the first time ever. Found some little issues, like loose toe links (didn't tighten all the way), leaking brake fluid from the DF reservoir adapter, etc. I've "fixed" and bled the brakes 3 times now, and it seems I'm leaking between the o-ring on the reservoir and the DF bracket; new o-rings, reseating...nothing works. So I'm giving up, and I ordered a Tilton 72-578 -- this was a long term plan of mine (separate reservoirs for brakes and clutch) but I'm doing it now because I'm tired of fighting the issue I currently have.

Kirkey 55 series 20" seats fit great with the Planted brackets. I have 2.5" square aluminum (.120 thick) between the bracket and the seat which gives me the perfect ride height. I still need to mount the square bars to the bracket, and seat to the bars, but that should happen soon. After which my driver seat is done (other than buying a Kirkey cover). To-do list is shrinking, and my goal is to do my roadworthy inspection in the next couple of weeks, with the aim to be street legal by end of May.

182.jpg183.jpg184.jpg185.jpg186.jpg


To-Do:
  • Fuel System
    • Install filler neck vent line
  • Engine
    • Setup vacuum lines and boost control solenoid
    • Mount heat exchanger and plumb; 3/4" hose for loop, with a 1/2" Tee for line to expansion tank; make bracket and mount expansion tank
    • Receive and install intake coupler and MAF tube
  • Body
    • Paint and install passenger footwell plate
    • Install footwell cover, hood, and extended windscreen
  • Seating
    • Wait for and confirm fitment with Planted bracket; If all is good, other passenger seat and bracket
    • Mount seats and harnesses
  • Electrical
    • Pick and order head lights, tail lights, side mirrors w/turn signal; install
    • Install license plate light mount kit
    • Receive and mount button panel
  • Other
    • Alignment
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
He has 4 up front and 2 bolts in the rear. Should be pretty solid. Odd the bracket doesn’t have the frame hooks anymore like mine were, though.
39927
 

devianteng

Well-Known Member
Frame hooks are definitely still there. For those that have the Planted brackets, you already know that it's not a snug fit in the front with about 3/4" of vertical play in the front of the bracket above the hooks. By using these spacers, it makes the hooks lock tight to the frame.

There should be little to no up pressure on these rivnuts, so the chance they fail or pull through is extremely unlikely. Even in the rare chance they all 4 fail at the same time, the seat bracket can't pull out because the hooks will stop it from lifting. Others on the forum have done a similar setup spacing the bracket on that square frame tube.

Further, the rear of the bracket is mounted through the frame with DF provided carriage bolts, washer, lock washer, and nut. It's solid.
 

devianteng

Well-Known Member
May 01, 2023
As they say, the last 10% take 90% of the time. Lot getting done though. Used 2.5" x .120 thick aluminum square tube as seat spacers between seat bracket and seat, which raised it exactly where I needed. 4 Lag bolts through the seat base to the square tube, but I still need to make 2 small angle brackets to support the rear of the seat, but should be good to go afterwards. Seat is solid.
Made a basic bracket for a 1L reservoir tank, mounted behind passenger seat and will be used as an expansion/fill tank for the h/e loop. H/e has been mounted, but still need to plumb it all.

After fighting brake fluid leaks, I've decided to replace the factory reservoir and DF relocation bracket. My donor's reservoir was toast, so I bought a new one. Accidentally ordered one for an automatic, so it didn't have the barb fitting for the clutch, so I drilled and tapped the plug and put a fitting in there. No leaks there, but I don't trust it long term. However I'm having leaks from the o-ring and coming up and over the DF relocation bracket. Disassembled the system twice, and decided if I had to do it a third time it was getting replaced. Went with the 3 chamber Tilton 72-578, which I really like. It has -AN4 fittings for each chamber, so I have new pre-made braided lines on order and should be here today. Will remove the factory reservoir today as well.

Went with the DF offered mirrors and taillights, which have been mounted and tested but I need to solder the wires and tape up/zip tie to frame. Headlights ordered from Amazon -- Audexen 7 inch round high/low light with DRL, DOT and SAE rated. About half the price as the Dominator, and I like the look. I don't expect to drive much at night, so spending a lot on lights were not a priority. Still waiting on more button panels to be made and sent to me, so I will likely have to temp wire a horn button so I can do my roadworthy inspection next week (KY cares about headlights with high/low, tail light/brake lights, turn signals, mirrors, horn, and windshield). I will start a separate thread for the KY registration process, but I don't expect it to be anything too difficult. By design, KY would want to register a "partial kit car" (meaning with parts from a donor) with a rebuild title, and that's a no go with me. I had a great conversation with my county clerk and he was explaining that there is a process for a clean title if it's a "full kit car". He alluded that if I show receipts for the kit, I can call it a full kit and not have to call out specifically the engine/trans or other donor parts (minimal for my build -- engine, trans, subframe, bcm/ecm, dash cluster, parking brake tubes...that's it). My to-do list below is basically everything left to do to be on the road, but I'm focused on the items needed for my county sheriff roadworthy inspection first. I'm off work next week, so big plans.

187.jpg188.jpg189.jpg190.jpg191.jpg192.jpg193.jpg194.jpg195.jpg

To-Do:
  • Fuel System
    • Install filler neck vent line
  • Engine
    • Setup vacuum lines and boost control solenoid
    • Mount heat exchanger and plumb; 3/4" hose for loop, with a 1/2" Tee for line to expansion tank; make bracket and mount expansion tank
  • Body
    • Install footwell cover, hood, and extended windscreen
  • Seating
    • Mount seat and harnesses
  • Electrical
    • Install turn signal mirrors, tail lights, head lights
    • Install license plate light mount kit
    • Receive and mount button panel
  • Other
    • Alignment
    • Install Tilton brake fluid reservoir;
    • Plumb Tilton reservoir and bleed system
 
Top