Escapepilot’s 06 SS/SC Ext Track Build

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Nothing a sawzall\welder\drill\grinder can't fix!!! Never say never when something can be modified or fabricated to resolve an issue or make a convenience change. And don't worry about that powdercoat, it's in a spot no one will see it - we will never tell anyone about the touch up. :p

Looking really good. Just some last assembly steps, an alignment and suspension adjustments and your Goblin will be ready for its first drive! :cool:
 

escapepilot

Well-Known Member
Nothing a sawzall\welder\drill\grinder can't fix!!! Never say never when something can be modified or fabricated to resolve an issue or make a convenience change. And don't worry about that powdercoat, it's in a spot no one will see it - we will never tell anyone about the touch up. :p

Looking really good. Just some last assembly steps, an alignment and suspension adjustments and your Goblin will be ready for its first drive! :cool:
Yeah - 90% done; 90% to go! but it has been fun.
 

escapepilot

Well-Known Member
Just to confirm…in the dash wiring video part 7, the light blue radiator fan wire that gets an insulated connector is connected to the large light blue wire in the black multi plug in the archived video #20?
 

escapepilot

Well-Known Member
Progress is really slow. Going back to old videos and seeing how it was done then comparing that to parts I have and how others have done it is time consuming. I thought I had finally figured out the final part of the fuse box install then check the K22E baggie and have the spacer and 1 3/4” machine screw left. Is that spacer used to raise the fuse box higher to allow more room under it for the hoses?
 

escapepilot

Well-Known Member
The spacer does help with space. I also trimmed a little of the extra plastic off the fuse box. I didn’t save the original radiator hose for the driver side but it look like the long hose could be a good substitute if cut in the right spot. I ordered a second long hose from the local parts box store so I’ll report back if it works or not. The other parts box store in town wanted $98 for the Cobalt SS radiator hose - no thanks.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Yours is the same as mine, here’s a list of all the part numbers I used.

 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I thought I had finally figured out the final part of the fuse box install then check the K22E baggie and have the spacer and 1 3/4” machine screw left.
I did the exact same thing. Fusebox was installed with some cobbled together parts and then found the baggie with the fusebox hardware after the fact. That bag ended up in the spare parts bin.
 

escapepilot

Well-Known Member
Took the MAF sensor out of the donor’s cold air intake and it’s been replaced and it doesn’t have the airflow direction arrow. Well…I guess I have a 50/50 shot at getting it correct the first time.
 

escapepilot

Well-Known Member
My donor's original lower radiator hose looked pretty bad so I didn't keep it. When I went to order a new one, local auto parts quoted me $98! So...I ordered another long hose like in the kit and made some changes that I hope work out better.

Passenger side - cut hose per videos and Cobalt hose.
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Driver side - cut kit hose per video and cut new long hose as needed. I also removed the extra material from the bottom front of the fuse box which gave me over an inch more room. Going to add a vinyl clamp or two to keep them in place but the driver side now has plenty of clearance and will not interfere w/ the gear selectors. I did have to order one more 1 1/4" splice from DF.
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34710
 

escapepilot

Well-Known Member
Rear tires are delayed, but fronts arrived and I couldn't wait to see them installed so took a break from working on details in the back. Seeing them installed kicks the motivation to another level. Loving how these look. American Racing Torque Thrust. 17x7.5 with 245/45R17 Falkens.

34776
 

escapepilot

Well-Known Member
Got the group buy shifter installed today and it feels like I can get it in all five gears and reverse.

Added coolant to the intercooler system in anticipation of first start soon. Decided to go with the blue Asian import fluid to keep it a different color from engine coolant (and it’s blue :)). Thought it was going well and was surprised when it didn’t hold a full gallon. Even more surprised when I noticed the blue puddle in the front :mad:. I thought it was a loose elbow but changed that out and drip, drip, drip….. So, remove the shifter I just installed because the hose clamp where the hose attaches to the pex wasn’t tight enough. Going to let it sit overnight before reinstalling the tunnel cover and shifter.

Edited for correction: Switched the front springs with the rear ones and hooked up the brake booster and reservoir to clutch master so at least a few things got completed today.
 
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escapepilot

Well-Known Member
why did you do that? stock is 400 front 300 rear. Iirc
EDITED for correction: Ignore my numbers below. I had them backwards.

standard is 300 front, 400 rear. I had planned on using the stock struts so had installed the 300s it came with before I decided to do the coil overs.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Nope. Standard is 300 in the rear, and 400 for the front. The front shocks are laid over, while the rears are vertical. That is why the harder springs go on the front.
 

escapepilot

Well-Known Member
I guess I had my numbers backwards. Thanks for keeping me from giving out bad info. It was one of those days. Fixed to hopefully not confuse anyone later.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
@escapepilot is correct in that the front coilovers come with 300lb springs. He said he was planning on re-using the factory cobalt struts in the rear so he would've utilized the 300lbs up front. Since he then opted for the rear coilovers, he had to switch the 400lb springs that come with the rear coilovers to the front and move the 300lb springs to the rear.
 
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