Cnixon160
Active Member
Justin Reed is running the OBX clone in his new F23 and said it performed well on the hill climb event
Rauq
Goblin Guru
I'm running one too. I was warned the helical gears may be backwards as received, that did turn out to be the case. Flipped them when I put the hardware kit in (https://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm). It's run flawlessly for over a year. I did an investigatory fluid change after a couple hundred miles and then another one at the beginning of this driving season, so after a year and a couple thousand miles, and the fluid's been cherry red, no signs of wear or debris or anything.
jirwin
Goblin Guru
Intermetiadte shaft seal would only matter for SS guys right?
Cnixon160
Active Member
No, that is the F23 specific seal inside of the bell housing, just know your going to need a pretty serious amount of heat and an impact to remove the hex bolt from the shaft, the loctite they use is serious
jirwin
Goblin Guru
So I hopefully have the Quaife thing sorted. The guy working there cancelled my order because he said i never reaponded to his question about me wanting a refund (because in Feb they said it would take 2 months). Stupid because i had asked for updates and a tracking nber and all that. He somehow took that as me wanting a refund smh. I paid again (confirmed they didn't double charge) and it should ship next week
jirwin
Goblin Guru
F23 is off to a transmission shop to get the Quaife LSD installed. In the meantime I'm finishing up my engine build. I'm doing the timing right now. Does anyone know if the cams have seals of some kind on the timing side? Looking on Rock Auto there are these parts listed (also not sure wtf a camshaft bearing is, no pictures).
Here is what it looks like with the cams sitting in it.
If anyone knows, or anyone with an LAP/LE5 could send a picture of their setup with the valve cover off I would really appreciate it.
Here is what it looks like with the cams sitting in it.
If anyone knows, or anyone with an LAP/LE5 could send a picture of their setup with the valve cover off I would really appreciate it.
jirwin
Goblin Guru
I wondered if those were it. So no other seals necessary from the looks of it. Probably not even worth replacing
jirwin
Goblin Guru
I'd like to know as well. I'm not sure how, but it has to be something like the crank right? Oil runs thru one of those holes, ends up in the cam, and then into the VVT sprocket.
jirwin
Goblin Guru
Ok, I'm probably being a worry wart... but I want to run this past you guys.
I have forged internals now. Yay. The entire car is being built to be able to handle just about as much power as the block/crank will handle. That limits me (to my knowledge) to around 450hp. Right now I'm just running an m62, so that's no where near a concern. Eventually I'll probably go twincharged, or just a Z54 or whatever.
That brings me to my question. Did I mess up with ring gaps? I'm about to put timing chains on, so I would rather disassemble and regap now if I have to.
I don't have the original Wiseco instructions, so I looked them up online. I found this:
I aimed for Circle Track/Drag Race because I'm ok with loosing a little bit of power to blow by if it means I'm safer.
I was watching a Youtube video just now and I saw the guy pull up this chart:
There's a lot more detail here. With the M62 I'd fall in the "Mild Boost up to 15lb" category. Comparing that to the other chart, and what I gapped them to is basically spot on to that (slightly tighter second ring but close enough). If I go turbo/twincharged though, that would put me in the medium boost category, which has a much (4-5 thou) bigger gap.
Am I being paranoid, or am I right to think that I should probably take them back out and gap them a bit more?
I have forged internals now. Yay. The entire car is being built to be able to handle just about as much power as the block/crank will handle. That limits me (to my knowledge) to around 450hp. Right now I'm just running an m62, so that's no where near a concern. Eventually I'll probably go twincharged, or just a Z54 or whatever.
That brings me to my question. Did I mess up with ring gaps? I'm about to put timing chains on, so I would rather disassemble and regap now if I have to.
I don't have the original Wiseco instructions, so I looked them up online. I found this:
I aimed for Circle Track/Drag Race because I'm ok with loosing a little bit of power to blow by if it means I'm safer.
I was watching a Youtube video just now and I saw the guy pull up this chart:
There's a lot more detail here. With the M62 I'd fall in the "Mild Boost up to 15lb" category. Comparing that to the other chart, and what I gapped them to is basically spot on to that (slightly tighter second ring but close enough). If I go turbo/twincharged though, that would put me in the medium boost category, which has a much (4-5 thou) bigger gap.
Am I being paranoid, or am I right to think that I should probably take them back out and gap them a bit more?