Metal Mech's Goblin #397 - 2.4L N/A Standard Frame (Project Phoenix)

Metal Mech

Well-Known Member
Well today was a productive day. Dash is completely stripped. No thanks to the clutch pedal. That thing was a PIA. The white clip just wouldn’t let go.
I got the parking brake handle out and the driver side brake tube popped out easily. The passenger side doesn’t want to come free but I will deal with that another day.
I am guessing they are normally attached to the brake cables? I have to replace mine because they are completely shot at the back end by the rear brakes.

Other then that I just have to drop the tank to get the sender but I’m not in a rush to do that just yet.
 

Metal Mech

Well-Known Member
Nothing exciting at the moment. Mostly organizing the parts and cleaning up the garage.
Got the snow blower in the shed for the summer.
Need to get my grill out, it’s at the back of the garage.
Also been storing any parts I don’t currently need to work on in the shed.
Boxed up the wiring harness till I am ready to work on it.
Going to work on removing the axles, transmission and get the engine up on a stand this week.
if I am lucky the frame will be ready this weekend or early next week.
 

Metal Mech

Well-Known Member
So took the Cat to the scrap yard and I guess they judge the cost based on a serial number on the car but doesn’t look like I have any on mine.
Gave me $85 for it and I’m happy with that.
 

Metal Mech

Well-Known Member
I'm not colorblind and I'm having trouble telling the difference between pure orange and what I can only assume would be impure orange.
I’m pretty sure a lot of colors from prismatic are very similar same. I had samples for Orange Soda and Orange Madness. They looked identical to me but Orange Madness cost more. I don’t think I ever got a sample of Pure Orange.

I just looked it up. Pure Orange is RAL. Orange Soda is Prismatic.
 
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Metal Mech

Well-Known Member
Cleaning up the garage and getting ready for the frame to come home. Also working on removing bits from the engine. Want to get it in a stand before the frame comes home.
Drained the oil, it was dark but clean. Not metal bits at all.
Couldn’t find the drain on the transmission so gave up that.
Did get the passenger side axles out. Driver side is still in. Having trouble getting it to pop out.
I couldn’t help myself and did a “test fit” of the new exhaust system. Made me feel better after finding a snapped exhaust stud.
40343
 

Mahkoi

Well-Known Member
Or don't and rip the nut out of the hose. Then the nut comes flying out and smacks you right in the middle of the chest. Probably the most hilarious and painful moment I had while building the car. Be generous with whatever lube your using for the hose pulling process.
 
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Joebob

Goblin Guru
Get those hoses warm before pulling through the frame.
Use a dry paint roller on string to clean the debris out of the tubes. there will be a fair bit after blasting from powdercoat. Then soak the roler in tire wet (only buy 1 bottle as I only used 1/2 bottle). get the hose warm with sun or a tub of hot water. I got a boat winch from harbor freight and changed the wire rope to a long cargo strap. tie a big knot in the strap or tie it to a bolt ot washer that barely fits inside the hose. Have the hose angle cut to have a tappered entry and secure the knot, bolt orwasher with the included ring and several high quality zip ties. Make sure you leave enough material in front of the knot.... to take the load and have someone lube up the hose while you pull it in. Pull about 6" past where you think it is good as it contracts as you take the load off. Early builds made it sound like a big deal, but with a winch bolted to a board like the new videos show make it very easy.

Joe
 

Metal Mech

Well-Known Member
The paint roller advice is something I haven’t heard before.
First though I gotta get someone to help me flip the frame onto its roof.
 
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