MisterDave's - Ext. city Goblin - 09 SS/TC donor

[Ark :D]

Thought about trying that but I don't think it'll stick to the stuff I painted the floorboard with. Maybe I'll give it a try.

 

[MisterDave]

Thought about trying that but I don't think it'll stick to the stuff I painted the floorboard with. Maybe I'll give it a try.

I think a read that someone cut an aluminum panel and then glued the floor mat to that panel. I was thinking of doing something like this, but I'm not to that point yet.

 

[MisterDave]

To get 5th and reverse , what I did was tighten bottom nut on left cable up about 3/4“ and if you still don’t have reverse shorten up drivers side shift rod a little at a time until you have reverse

I'll give this a try. So you basically pulled the "L" cable further away from the shift arms?

 

[JBINTX]

Speaking of dust and dirt on the floorboard, that reminds me. I bought a floor mat from Lowe's and cut it to size as floor mats for my car. Getting in and out of the Goblin is a challenge, and if I get in wrong, I end up kicking the mat forward and jamming it up under the pedals.

Any suggestions for a way to keep the mats stationary, but removeable? Like, I don't want to affix them to the floorboard, but I want them to reasonably "stick" where I want them. Maybe like a spray-on tacky substance?

Try silicone. It sticks well to most things and is not too hard to clean up.

 

[OptimizePrime]

Speaking of dust and dirt on the floorboard, that reminds me. I bought a floor mat from Lowe's and cut it to size as floor mats for my car. Getting in and out of the Goblin is a challenge, and if I get in wrong, I end up kicking the mat forward and jamming it up under the pedals.

Any suggestions for a way to keep the mats stationary, but removeable? Like, I don't want to affix them to the floorboard, but I want them to reasonably "stick" where I want them. Maybe like a spray-on tacky substance?

This sounds involved but it's an easy project. I cut some cardboard for the general shape, then got some 1/8" plate steel and cut that to the shape. I then went to a big box and picked up some 24x36" matt (aisle 36 at my lowes) and liquid nails. Spread the liquid nails on the 1/8" plate, placed the matt down on top and then cut around the plate. I used the matt on both sides of the plate. $17 for matt and liquid nails + 1/8" plate (I already had). You're looking at maybe $40 for both matts - solid, hefty enough it doesn't move, removeable, good looking, durable, cheap to fix if they get goofed.

A spray version of liquid nails or something similar would be a nice alternative.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

I'll give this a try. So you basically pulled the "L" cable further away from the shift arms?

Yes and then adjust left shift Rod shorter a little at a time to get reverse if you don’t by shortening left cable on tranny

 

[MisterDave]

I kind of feel like I've been jumping all over the place on this project lately... Here's my update so far:

1. Brakes: I bled the brakes and clutch. I'm not 100% confident, but the clutch and brake pedal feel good.

2. Gears: After a bit of searching I did find 5th and R but they were a little difficult to find with the stick... I think I have the stick set too far left because getting into reverse doesn't reach the lock out that you would normally have to lift over. Knowing that R is a little further right than 5th helped with locating the gears.

3. Alignment: I have the wheels on and the car on the ground! I did the rear alignment, seems to have gone as planned. Now I'm working on the front... Here's where I have a big question. At the start of my build I replaced the inner tie-rods that connect to the steering rack. Now the driver side wheel is really toed out when I have the tie rods set with the same about of thread on both sides. It looks to me that the driver side tie rod is one inch shorter than the passenger side. Any ideas how i screwed this up?

 

[MisterDave]

I can't seem to get the clutch to engage. When I turn the car on I can't seem to get it in gear. I don't want to force it. With the engine off and in neutral I can roll the car forward. then I press clutch and brake and put it in 1st(car still off) release clutch and brake and does not roll... Good so far. still in 1st gear and push the clutch in and still won't roll. Clutch pedal springs back and feels like pretty normal pressure.

Any tips?
Could it be that I still have air in the clutch line?

 

[JBINTX]

I can't seem to get the clutch to engage. When I turn the car on I can't seem to get it in gear. I don't want to force it. With the engine off and in neutral I can roll the car forward. then I press clutch and brake and put it in 1st(car still off) release clutch and brake and does not roll... Good so far. still in 1st gear and push the clutch in and still won't roll. Clutch pedal springs back and feels like pretty normal pressure.

Any tips?
Could it be that I still have air in the clutch line?

Yes could be air. I had to bleed mine three times before all the air worked out.

 

[George]

I can't seem to get the clutch to engage. When I turn the car on I can't seem to get it in gear. I don't want to force it. With the engine off and in neutral I can roll the car forward. then I press clutch and brake and put it in 1st(car still off) release clutch and brake and does not roll... Good so far. still in 1st gear and push the clutch in and still won't roll. Clutch pedal springs back and feels like pretty normal pressure.

Any tips?
Could it be that I still have air in the clutch line?

Did yoy install aluminum fllywheel?
Brad

 

[MisterDave]

Did yoy install aluminum fllywheel?
Brad

I did not.

 

[MisterDave]

Yes could be air. I had to bleed mine three times before all the air worked out.

I will try to bleed it again. thanks.
I can't really think of anything else to try...

 

[Rttoys]

Air, or it’s leaking (probably at the elbow from the line to trans)

 

[George]

I have been working with this type of slave cylinder for over thirty years. Attached is instructions on how to pre bleed the slave cylinder before matting to engine. There are different variables you car do but the idea is the same.

Brad

 

[MisterDave]

I have been working with this type of slave cylinder for over thirty years. Attached is instructions on how to pre bleed the slave cylinder before matting to engine. There are different variables you car do but the idea is the same.

Brad

Interesting.
I tried to bleed the clutch line again this morning. I’m not getting any air bubbles, but a lot of times the pedal did not return after bleeding. Once we pull the pedal back it then springs back like normal after pressed.
the method I tried this morning was hold down pedal, open bleeder, close bleeder, release pedal.

 

[baustin]

3. Alignment: I have the wheels on and the car on the ground! I did the rear alignment, seems to have gone as planned. Now I'm working on the front... Here's where I have a big question. At the start of my build I replaced the inner tie-rods that connect to the steering rack. Now the driver side wheel is really toed out when I have the tie rods set with the same about of thread on both sides. It looks to me that the driver side tie rod is one inch shorter than the passenger side. Any ideas how i screwed this up?

You have the tie rod ends set with similar thread showing but is the steering rack actually centered? If you turn full left and full right, are you getting the same number of rotations of the steering wheel from where you’re calling center?

 

[MisterDave]

You have the tie rod ends set with similar thread showing but is the steering rack actually centered? If you turn full left and full right, are you getting the same number of rotations of the steering wheel from where you’re calling center?

I am yes. If I remember correctly I think I get 1.5 turns in either direction.

 

[Rttoys]

Have you measured that the inner tie rods are the same length? I have no idea why they wouldn’t be, but it’s one of the things I do when replacing stuff, is see if it’s a direct match.

And just Incase it was missed or overlooked; the factory outer tie rods go on the back of the goblin and DF supplies you with new outer tie rod ends for the front that are shorter.

Hhmm. Did you mix these up maybe? Just thinking out loud.

 

[MisterDave]

Have you measured that the inner tie rods are the same length? I have no idea why they wouldn’t be, but it’s one of the things I do when replacing stuff, is see if it’s a direct match.

And just Incase it was missed or overlooked; the factory outer tie rods go on the back of the goblin and DF supplies you with new outer tie rod ends for the front that are shorter.

Hhmm. Did you mix these up maybe? Just thinking out loud.

I seem to remember checking that they were the same length.
I finished up an alignment on the wheels... just a first pass, I plan to go back to it a recheck everything. I ended up with 1-1/2 inches of thread on the passenger side and 1-7/8 inches of thread on the drivers side.
I did use the DF supplied outer tie rods in the front and the cobalt tie rods in the back.
My only thought is maybe there is a spacer you something that goes between the inner tie rod and the steering rack? I can't find it on any diagrams though. And I don't remember seeing anything.

 

[jamesm]

Verify that the uprights are on correctly and the L brackets are oriented properly. Also, is there a similar amount of spacing on all the hiem joints on the upper and lower control arms? Trying to think through all the bits that might make the alignment off that would account for that difference.