pisco
Well-Known Member
what are you getting for a coating quote?
r3drckt - extended track - 06 SS/SC G85
- Thread starter r3drckt
- Start date
Haven’t started quotes yet as I have some mods I need to do to the chassis and I’m not sure how long that will take. Doing what @Tinkles did and mounting 2 heat exchangers on the sides in front of the rear wheels. Getting 2 heat exchanger kits from DF instead of the one. Gonna see how they look, but considering going to 2 Mishimotos (MMOC-25) instead.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Are you going with the stock intercooler? 2 'stock' exchangers will be more than sufficient for cooling the DF supplied system. If you are planning a larger intercooler, the 2 DF heat exchangers may not be enough capacity. A good rule-of-thumb for air-to-water system is the cubic volume of the intercooler core needs to be matched or exceeded by the cubic inch volume of the heat exchanger(s). In my system the intercooler has 450 cu.in. and the heat exchangers total 500 cu.in.
Im using the stock LSJ laminova intake with a dual pass, but doing a Z57 turbo swap. Should be plenty of capacity with these stock heat exchangers. I was debating plumbing them in series for extra cooling before going back to the intake. I have the ZZP high output pump so I was a little worried it’d be moving the fluid too quick through a single heat exchanger and it wouldn’t cool as well.
Planning out my radiator hose alternative following what some others have done with -16AN SS lines instead of the rubber ones pulled through the rails. Does anyone know the length of the bottom frame rail? Thinking a 6’ roll per side would be sufficient, but want to be sure. I have the extended chassis which is advertised at 127”, but that would include the back half which the hose doesn’t get run through a rail.
Russell 632260 -16 AN Stainless Braided Hose 6' | eBay
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Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
AN-16 lines are too small for the engine cooling system, you should use AN-20 to match the 1.25 inch hose size that is used in the Cobalt and supplied by DF. Just a suggestion, but the 1 inch hose will likely not flow enough volume of fluid to keep up if you push your engine for an extended period of time.
I was reading through all of that thread and I saw you guys discussing using the AN-20 fittings at the end and how it'd interfere with the carriage bolt for the subframe. Didn't @Fozda go with AN-16 and uses his for autocross? Believe he's also supercharged too which I would think would be more stress and heat on the engine than a larger turbo setup. If he is running the AN-16 without cooling issues, I should be fine. Worst case I can easily pull it out and pull an AN-20 later on. Looking at the dimensions of the AN-20, it looks like it'd be a snug pull. Looked like the OD of the SS lines was a hair bigger than the ID of the lower tube.
I really didn't want to weld in the bolt on the subframe to bolt from the top, but I guess it wouldn't be horrible.
I really didn't want to weld in the bolt on the subframe to bolt from the top, but I guess it wouldn't be horrible.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
The bottom frame tubes on an extended are 87"Planning out my radiator hose alternative following what some others have done with -16AN SS lines instead of the rubber ones pulled through the rails. Does anyone know the length of the bottom frame rail? Thinking a 6’ roll per side would be sufficient, but want to be sure. I have the extended chassis which is advertised at 127”, but that would include the back half which the hose doesn’t get run through a rail.
Russell 632260 -16 AN Stainless Braided Hose 6' | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Russell 632260 -16 AN Stainless Braided Hose 6' at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
Thank you. Guess I'm gonna have to buy a long 15-16' section and just cut.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Wisconsin driving conditions are typically far cooler than those of us who live in more southern climes and the 1 inch lines are probably just adequate to keep up. Keep in mind the reduction in hose size causes reduced flow volume and increases line pressure - Bernoulli fluid dynamics. This condition will also increase back pressure in the water pump and reduce fluid speed through the engine.
I think I was mistaken @KLMOTORSPORTS for @Fozda in that thread. Either way, you bring up good points. How easy was it to pull the AN20 hoses vs the rubber hoses from DF?
I'm sort of surprised the system works at all as designed with the additional length of smaller hose over the original car. The pump has to be getting way up on it's "curve" and moving the water a lot slower. I think the small radiator also adds restriction to the system. I've considered adding in an electric water pump inline.
If I ever tear mine back down to powder coat the frame, I will likely go the route of welding fittings on the frame and leaving out the hose all together.
Fozda
Goblin Guru
@KLMOTORSPORTS was the original one to do the AN lines I believe but there have been others since then. I opted for welding nipples onto the ends of the frame rails to clamp hoses to instead of pulling anything through and it has worked very well for me so far.
Next order placed with ZZP:
stage 2 turbo cams
Molnar 2.0 Hbeam rods
Diamond forged pistons 9.5CR
ATI underdrive damper
NBS
ZZP high voltage coil packs
NGK 2 step colder plugs
HPX extended range MAF sensor
ARP head studs
New lash adjusters (for when I have the head ported and 82# springs done)
Clevite H series rod bearings
New main bearings
Head gasket
345 serpentine belt (for AC delete and smaller damper)
New Laminova Orings
New main seal
New throttle body gasket (not sure if I’ll need this)
Red and blue thread locker
Order with OTTP:
ARP main studs
Upgraded cam cap bolts (12.9 grade bolts)
OTTP fuel rail fitting for boost reference
New fuel filter with single in/out for boost reference
stage 2 turbo cams
Molnar 2.0 Hbeam rods
Diamond forged pistons 9.5CR
ATI underdrive damper
NBS
ZZP high voltage coil packs
NGK 2 step colder plugs
HPX extended range MAF sensor
ARP head studs
New lash adjusters (for when I have the head ported and 82# springs done)
Clevite H series rod bearings
New main bearings
Head gasket
345 serpentine belt (for AC delete and smaller damper)
New Laminova Orings
New main seal
New throttle body gasket (not sure if I’ll need this)
Red and blue thread locker
Order with OTTP:
ARP main studs
Upgraded cam cap bolts (12.9 grade bolts)
OTTP fuel rail fitting for boost reference
New fuel filter with single in/out for boost reference
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Holy smokes! 
That has got to total up to a big hit in piggy bank - but wow will that be fun to put together!
That has got to total up to a big hit in piggy bank - but wow will that be fun to put together! Ordered my -16AN SS hoses and fittings this evening as well. Think I’ve ran out of things to buy (unless I don’t find someone local to port the head). Hoping my Braum seats and harnesses get here before the chassis so I’m not having to really wait on anything for assembly.