Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
How did you apply this soft bump with a hammer? I've seen a couple different methods of setting the tensioner and have not found one I have faith in...
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I used a dead blow hammer, and a wooden paint stick. With the right side engine cover off, I was able to see that lower chain got tensioned after the soft bump.
The first time I used a steel hammer, and a screwdriver - too much force, and I couldn't tell if the tensioner actually actuated, when viewed from the top valve cover area.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Anyone with an LSJ care to share a HP Tuners log file? I want to know what "normal" is for my LSJ.

I logged all the variables available in HP Tuners, in order to find which variables work, and which don't.
I am curious if my results are typical for an LSJ engine.

Engine Oil Pressure = 0. 0 PSI Do I have a dead or missing sensor?
Startup Intake Air = -36F This log file was made today, in an airconditioned shop, about 75F.
Fuel System #1 Status (SAE) = CL - Fault
LTFT PCM Control = off Should my Long Term Fuel Trims be turned off? I would think not.
Misfire History Cylinder #1 = 148 Should I clear the history data?
Trans Fluid Temp = -40F
Trans Current Gear = 2nd Doesn't work correctly. I used 1st to 4th, and the tach vs speed tells me when I'm shifting.
TCC Slip = 1700 RPM Um, it is a standard, with no Torque Converter.
Fuel Tank Level = 42.9 gal The Cobalt tank isn't even that big.
Fan 1 Status = Unknown: 3F
Fan 2 Status = Unknown: 3D
Fan 3 Status = off
After studying HP Tuners for a week, I have learned that my posted HPT log file is a good example of what the data looks like when the Goblin has an air vacuum leak. (Excessive LTFT and STFT at low RPM)
This morning I used a propane torch (with out the flame, just leaking propane) and HP Tuners to prob the engine for a vacuum leak, and I found out that my brake booster is leaking.
So rather than buying another 12" Cobalt brake booster, I am looking for a smaller brake booster.
Even the 315mm Nitto NT05R Drag Radial Tires don't need that much brake boost.
It would be nice if it mates to the stock master brake cylinder, and can be adapted to the stock Cobalt brake pedal. Any suggestions?
 

JeffsGoblin

Goblin Guru
After studying HP Tuners for a week, I have learned that my posted HPT log file is a good example of what the data looks like when the Goblin has an air vacuum leak. (Excessive LTFT and STFT at low RPM)
This morning I used a propane torch (with out the flame, just leaking propane) and HP Tuners to prob the engine for a vacuum leak, and I found out that my brake booster is leaking.
So rather than buying another 12" Cobalt brake booster, I am looking for a smaller brake booster.
Even the 315mm Nitto NT05R Drag Radial Tires don't need that much brake boost.
It would be nice if it mates to the stock master brake cylinder, and can be adapted to the stock Cobalt brake pedal. Any suggestions?
Check out what Tim was looking at:
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Ross,
So what was the fix for the king pin. Did I miss it? What caused the severe wheelhop Great vid by the way.
The wheel bearings were too loose, allowing the wheel to move around too much. Also those drag radials probably have more traction than what the kit was built for... Maybe we can convince Adam to design & offer some beefier king pin supports... but it is better those bend than the nice billet aluminum. Maybe the light weight (300 lbs/inch) springs and soft settings on the QA shocks played into it too. If I new that wheel hop can damage the king pins, I would have taken it easier on the brakes, so driver ignorance/abuse comes into play too.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Good to know. I started the day with 20psi in the rear, 18psi in the front, which was when I bent the L bracket.
I lowered the pressure 1psi later in the day.
 

FTC

Member
Went back and looked at the Instructional video for the front suspension:


When did the design change to the L brackets?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Went back and looked at the Instructional video for the front suspension:


When did the design change to the L brackets?
Well, it was before my kit, which was picked up in January of 2019. Not sure the date that DF changed this, but you did post in my build log, so I guess you are asking me :)
 

George

Goblin Guru
They are 3/8" thick. I have thought about reinforcing them. Going to see I these bend. I the bracket is too strong it might break the upright. Bending would help save the upright.

Brad
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
After the autocross, I ordered new mirrors, as one was cracked. Also ordered the heavier duty rod end mounts to fix the front suspension lower king pin heim joint bolt mount.
9858

This was bent because I have loose wheel hub bearings, so I went to tighten the wheel bearings today.
But there is no adjustment bolt. So I bought new hubs...
MOOG​
512285Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly
$ 126.79​
$ 0.00​
2​
$ 253.58​
MOOG​
513203 -update: wrong part. 513206 fits my car.Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly
$ 100.79​
$ 0.00​
2​
$ 201.58​
Shipping​
Ground
$ 13.99​
Tax​
$ 35.18​
Order Total​
$ 504.33
Then I moved on to electrical. Ran the wires from the AEM wideband in the exhaust all the way to the steering column new AEM gauge, then to a serial connector and to an ignition switched wire. Installed serial to USB adapter, downloaded drivers, and tested that VCM Scanner was able to read the new wideband. Mission successful!
9860
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Replaced the inner U joint boot today. It was leaking greasy oil on the transmission case.
I left part 1 on the transmission, while removing part 2 (axle shaft),
replaced the rubber boot, repacked the grease in the bearings,
then reassembled the axle, and put the metal straps on the boot.
9866

After that,
I checked the intake for air leaks, as my low RPM LTFT and STFT where maxed out, and still the engine was running 8% too lean.
No leaks found, so I changed the MAF settings up by 20% in the lower airflow rates.
Ran HP Tuners VCM Scanner, and saw that the AFR's were now able to get to normal (Lambda 1.0, or AFR 14.7)
Officially did my first engine tuning!
Of course the engine still needs MAF tuning, but I am waiting until after the new hubs arrive on Friday.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
My DF parts arrived today! on the left we see the beefier 3/8" front wheel lower rod end mount,
and on the right, in white, is the bent 1/4" part. Also came with new longer bolts!
9956


The new MOOG front hubs arrived, and were painted white, ABS caps removed, and the DF 3D printed cap was put on.
Then they were torqued onto the Goblin.
9957
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
I'm a little confused the video's show no rod end brackets but you got 1/4 inch rod end brackets with your kit. Are the 3/8 ths now standard or are they special order ? I'm guessing i'm going to need them when I strap the Hoosiers on the car.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
The video has aluminum rod end mounts, but the kit now comes with 1/4" steel ones.
My steel ones bent because my wheel bearings were too loose and worn, causing excess shutter/shaking. See video.

The 3/8" thick ones are beefier, but I am risking bending the nice CNC milled aluminum uprights.
Hopefully I have solved the wheel shake that caused the issue, and don't bend anything else.
The thick ones are special order, but if you spend the money on new wheel hubs, and you probably won't need them.
The wheels should only have .005" of wheel bearing movement at the wheel rim. I had around .125" which was an issue!
You see me checking the hubs at the end of the video... they shouldn't clunk like they did.
 
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